Does anyone out there have a picture of what these look like installed?

 

looks like this uninstalled

 

and clearancing on bottom of mount

 

Whoa, how much do them cost, and from where?

 

Thanks for the pictures. How do you like them? Worth the price?

Dale : www.ground-control.com they site suggests you would be able to order it direct through them.

 

Haven't installed yet. Will be doing so in the next few weeks. They look like they will work fine. I can only get about 1 deg neg camber and 3 deg caster right now. I bought 2 used strut mounts to do this off the car. You have to split them open to take out the old mounts and then clearance the bottom half as seen in picture. You will also need a welder to put two halves back together. Also, you will have to clearance top of strut tower when I install them. Definitely should be able to get more adjustment out of alignment when finished. I will try and post results when I am done.

 

I've run them for a year now. I had to have the spacer sleeve milled down to allow the strut nut to fully engage the threads on my Koni struts. Also the stock strut boot will not work with them.

 

Thanks for the heads up. How much did you have to machine spacer, and do the dust covers interfere with something when using these?

 

The spacer has a about a 10mm lip around one end of it, I had that taken down by half.

If you look at the picture of the bottom view of the plate you can see that the bearing is very close to the side and dust cover is too big to fit, plus when you move the plate in to get camber the strut shaft comes very close to the edge of the strut hole in the tower. I used a flexible rubber dust cover for off-road trucks like: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...2&prmenbr=361.

 

Thanks again for the info!

 

I never understood the point. What do they buy you that slotting the top of the strut towers and the stock plates (or even better, using later OEM plates and bottom brackets which are already different and I believe the only ones available anymore)?

Either way, there is no way to run any kind of dust shield or boot with the GC stuff, where slotting will let you keep them if you go only a little ways with it, and if you want more you can either run dust boots like the 4x4 guys do or trim the lip on the opening in the top of the strut tower and run the stock dust shield.

Of course, If you’re seriously **** retentive (and I’ve actually tried this) you can pop the spot welds for the top of the strut tower and reweld it wherever you want it.

 

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...33245013PMjQpA


See pics

 

You are **** and cheap, hence the hacking and cutting and re-welding. These look nice so we'll see how they work in a few weeks when the rest of my front end s@#t gets here.

 

Please post and let me know.

 

Will do...hopefully I'll take pix while putting it back together as far as clearances go, etc.

 

oh, I’m so hurt… **** and cheap… 2 qualtities that I’m actually somewhat proud of.


Hey, do you care to take those things apart and take a picture of what’s inside them (mostly the bearing and spacer assembly), this whole thing just gave me an idea.

Huh, maybe I should just show up when the rest of your suspension stuff gets here and take those apart… ahum, sorry, help you put stuff on your car.

And FWIW, I still think that slotting the strut towers or similar changes are a better solution since it will let you keep some sort of dust cover over the shaft.

 

For me, it was because I race my car and camber plates are legal and cutting and modifying the strut tower is not.

 

Man, I will tell you. I have those same plates and have not figured how they mount? The guys at ground control did not give me much info either! Do the really work?

 

Well I finally got these in. Ran into a few issues but nothing that couldn't be fixed with a welder and a few beers. I just installed these along with a PA k-member and Spohn LCA's, so with the springs out I went ahead and mocked everything up. The strut clears the hole in the strut tower, but since my car is lowered I wanted to check the strut body, and sure enough it hits the hole about 1" before the tire would buzz the inner plastic fender (which I did once going over some rough train tracks ).

 

To clearance I set my modified strut mount bracket on and set it for max camber and caster (in and back). I just traced the outline where I had trimmed it and cut it out.

 

You can see from pics how it cuts the lip out of the hole, which weakens the top of the strut tower. The fix was a 3/8" wide piece of 1/8" plate the was bent to form a new lip and welded into place.

 

With new piece welded in strut clears fine and allows use of original dust boot. You can use the 4x4 rubber dust boots as long as you don't have to worry about the body of the strut hitting the hole in the strut tower. I will be getting the car aligned sometime this week and will post how much more it is adjustable when done.

 

Pic of fixed strut tower before grinding welds and paint:

 

Update:

Just got an FEA: I picked up an extra degree of caster (to 4 degrees). It's not as much as I wanted, but after changing k-member and lower arms, the front end dropped a little. Also, the rear is about an inch higher than the front, which will take away from the caster a little also.