I see jegs sells both an adjustable and non adjustable torque arm. My question is about the supposedly non adjustable setup. Since the torque arm mount bolts to the tunnel on this setup, can the mounting point on the tunnel be adjusted back and forth slightly when it is installed in order to set the initial angle? Or does the design of the mounting bracket pretty much lock it in to being installed in only one location? I ask because it seems it would be quite a bit cheaper to buy the non adjustable and just take your time getting the setup right when you bolted it in.

 

Back and forth will do nothing with this setup. The mounting plate that bolts to the tranny tunnel might be able to be moved downward a touch to change the pinion angle to achieve what your after, but the way them come, they're meant to be fitted tight into the tranny tunnel and then bolted in.

I've got the adjustible one and it's just one more tuning tool/aid. For a daily driver the non adjustible will work fine, but if you ever lower your car or change driveline angles an adjustible would be nice to get it back where it's supposed to be.

The front of the torque arm is the determining point of pinion angle since the torque arm is mounted securely to the diff housing, so any movement at the front of the torque arm up/down is going to change the pinion angle on the diff-that's why the back/forth will do nothing. It's the up/down you need to be concerned with.

Personally with the amount of force these things take, I would just soon have the mounting bracket in the tunnel mounted tightly against it-trying to shim ouot all the bolts that hold this thing in place would be one hellava job to say the least since there's so many bolts that hold it on place and some are hard enought to get at how it is.

 

OK thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered the adjustable one.

 

I dont think you'll be disappointed with the adjustible, cost more yes, but you get tunability-if that's a word

The one thing I am going to do, is take mine back apart and make an adjustible mounting position for the front of the torque arm on the tranny bracket.

Where the front of the torque arm mounts affects IC, weight transfer and how much power is put through the chasis and how much the tires take the hit. As it comes out of the box it does a good job of plating the tires, but I would like to move the front mount down 3/4"-1" to get the IC where it used to be with the factory set-up since it put more load into the chasis-would be nice on hot summer days or less than perfect tracks so I dont take a chance of tires spinning....not to mention kick azz wheelies when the track is good and I want to play

 

Do you see any reason why I cant simply weld this saddle to the tunnel? It sure seems like a lot less work than all that drilling and bolting?

 

I have been thinking about getting there arm also. Who has it and what do you think about it?

 

LOL, ya know, I'm a big fan of the torch and welder. I looked over this unit for awhile before I installed it and thought the same thing. But honestly drilling the holes is ALOT FASTER, ALOT CHEAPER, and holds just as good as a weld would. Truthfully bolting is stronger than welding anyways.

When you go to install this piece you will need a helper though. You will be under the car holding the bracket in the tunnel after you mark/drill your holes and your buddy will be up top inserting bolts and holding them with a wrench while you install and tighten the nuts.

I was hopeing to have more room in the tunnel for running my true dual 3" pipes, but after everything is all assembled it takes up alot of property in the tunnel. I'm very happy with mine, tranny removal is just like in the older cars we grew up with, since now we dont have to worry about removing that dam torque arm. and it works period. Like I said I want to tweak on mine for experimenting purposes with having an adjustible front mount, so we'll see how that goes....I gotta lot to do just to get the car ready for this season without worring about playing around yet

 

So, it bolts to the floor pan? I am assuming the carpet needs to be out to do this. Just asking, because my interior is currently gutted and it would be easyier for me to do this now.

 

Yes, pull out the seats/center console and roll back the carpet, simple as that

 

Does anyone still have the instructions for installing the jegster torque arm?? just picked one up cheap, with all the parts, but no instructions. i don't want to start drilling my floorboards out if theres a specific measurement...thanks.... anyone got pictures?

 

No specific measurements other than having the end of the torque arm that hooks into the tranney tunnel mount sticking out approx 3/4" from the end of the torque arm tube (so it can slide in and out without binding). bolt to your rear end, and mock up and drill when necessary.

 

this is measured with the wheels supporting the weight of the car right? in other words on a drive on lift? so i bolt on the torque arm to the rear , and then mount the bracket up front w/ some room for play. did u bolt yours in or weld it in?

 

Your correct, install the unit with the weight of the car on jack stands.

The end of the torque arm-it's actually a separate peice that slides into the end of the torque arm and bolts to the tranny tunnel bracket. Make sure you that when you slide it into the torque arm you pull it back out so there's roughly 3/4"-1" sticking back out for fore/aft movement under acceleration/braking and it wont bind up.

I almost thought about welding mine in, but ended up bolting it for the simple fact bolting is stronger than welding and you have many bolts holding this tranny tunnel bracket in place and you will never be able to shear off any of those bolts since the stress is distributed throughout the whole bracekt. Plus if you wanna remove it (say if you wreck this car) you can.

 

Bolting is never stronger then welding. Just welding the whole way around the parameter of the bracket will give you more surface area/steel holding the assembly together, and if you’re really concerned about it then drill some holes and run some plug welds.

If bolting is going to be anywhere near as strong you’d have to run bolts almost everywhere and you’d have to put a matching bracket on the inside of the floor pan as a reinforcing plate to prevent the bolts from pulling through under a heavy load.