I'm planning on buying the CEE-3130 from Summit, and I was just wondering if anyone else has pros/cons about it or any tricks on installing it.

Yes, I have searched. I pawed through 2 pages of threads, and didn't really find what I was looking for.

I want to go with the 8pt, so I don't have to remove the dash. This is still track legal, right?

Thanks again!

 

track legal until 10 flat with a hardtop and non-altered floors and firewall.

pics on my cardomain site. this cage was just like putting in any other cage on the market, the bars are bent and you do the fit and finish to where you want them.

 

Ok, I'm planning on 12's with the motor, and possibly 11's with the NOS. At least that's what people estimated! lol

That cage looks perfect! Exactly what I want. Did you order that kit, or is it a similar kit?

 

i ordered it from summit.

 

http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1105

Kat

 

It's only considered a cage when it has a halo bar and a-piller bars.

I just checked the summit site to see the description. It's just a typical 6 point roll bar with the extra braces running down from the crossbar to the tranny tunnel to make the 2 extra points. It's made of the proper thickness 1-3/4" tubing. Full cages can be made from smaller diameter tubing.

As mentioned above, it's legal to 10.0 in a hardtop or T-top car as long as the floor and firewall are unmodified. Wheel tubs permitted.

Any of these kits are not a simple weld in job. Tubes will need to be cut to length since every installation can be slightly different they give extra material for a custom fit. Chances are all the braces will have a notch at one end so you won't have to worry about notching the tubes.

You're going to need a bunch of stuff to put it in yourself. The kits will include 6x6x1/8 steel plates that need to be welded to the floor. Since there's no area exactly that size, the plates need to be heated up and shaped to fit around the floor. The main hoop normally is attached to the hump that runs behind the front seats. That hump is about 4" wide so the 6x6 plates will have to wrap around it. To weld in all these plates, the carpet will need to come out. With a full interior, this becomes a big job. Once all the plates are welded in where you're going to want the bars to mount to, the bars then need to be cut to length and welded to the plates. You can't use a stick welder. Everything needs to be welded with MIG or TIG.

Do you have or have access to;

Oxy/acetelene torches to heat up the plates for forming
MIG or TIG welder
Disk grinder, normally 4"
Recipricating or chop saw. Cutting tubing with a hack saw takes forever.
At least 3 good days of down time

 

Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes

But... do I have the experience or know-how? No. Neither do the friends/family that have those tools!

Sounds like I'll have a shop do it. If I do the interior gutting (removal of the seats, carpet, and plastic, right), any idea how many hours I should look forward to paying?

 

Removing all the interior for a shop to do it will really help cut down the cost. Still expect to pay $100-$150 per point for it to be installed.

 

I have experience with one sitting in my garage for over a year .

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
[B]. You can't use a stick welder. Everything needs to be welded with MIG or TIG.

why cant it be stick welded?

 

Ask NHRA and IHRA. It's their rule.

I'm not a professional welder to tell you the difference. Probably because MIG and TIG has better localized heat with less chance of distorting the tubing and they give cleaner welds.

 

I have the CE kit and am working on it now. I'm really struggling with the side braces that go beside the door. I don't want them to be visible from the window (don't want to scare away any Mustangs or Civics). There's not much room with that huge arm rest. The rest of it went in really easy. I did make a mistake though. I blended the welds on the cross bar to make them smooth and pretty, then a friend looking at it pointed out in the rule book that grinding any of the welds is prohibited.

 

Yes.
It works well with the right mig welder, and cuting tools. Remember where you plan on racing, NHRA or IHRA or Shame on the street.
Each has a little difference in certification.
Also rember to take advantange of how far back you can lean the hoop so you dont see it as much in the side window, I think its 3 degrees?
Rotten