It started as a little grinding when I first pulled out up to about 5 miles per hour. I thought maybe it was my front wheel bearings (which I recently replaced with Federal Mogul) so I repacked them and used a torque wrench to check the castle nut tension. I also changed my front brake pads while I was down there. That didn't fix it.

Now it's starting to get worse and I mostly notice it when I turn the wheel right or left at parking lot speeds.

Also know that a few months ago I changed the center link and idler arm after I went to have the front end aligned and the guy wouldn't do it b/c my centerlink was loose. The alignment guy said my tie rods and ball joints were fine, but this was a few months ago.

Is it my tie rod ends? My struts are pretty ancient too.

 

Is it more of a whining? I'd have to venture powersteering pump.

 

strut mounts

 

No, it's not a whining. It's not a sound I can hear. It's a grinding I can clearly feel through steering wheel and pedals.

 

Could it be your front breaks dragging?

That can cause a "grinding" noise to reverberate through the steering wheel.

Just a thought for something to check...

 

No, it started before I changed the brake pads. That's one of the things I changed to see if it would go away, but it hasn't. It's getting worse.

 

Did you loosen the wheel bearings after setting the tension?

The correct way is to torque them (12 ft/lbs IIRC) then back them off and snug them up finger tight.

After that, I usually bolt the wheel on with the dust cap still removed and check for play. If it has too much play, tighten down the castle nut to the next slot.

The wheel bearings will wear badly if not assembled right.

Also, did you look at the inner fenders to see if one might have come loose and the tire is rubbing on it making that sound?

 

Does it only happen when turning, or all the time?

 

It only seems to happen when I'm turning slow. Like backing out of a parking space and then pulling out. After that it pretty much goes away (unless its happening but I can't feel it anymore). I'll redo the wheel bearings again this weekend and make sure the tires aren't rubbing something. I don't know how to check the strut mounts other than to yank on them. So nobody thinks it's the tie rod ends?

 

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1375

or

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1542 if you want a true performance upgrade (a part breaking is normally a great opportunity to upgrade!)


or atleast, I'm fairly confident it is the strut mount

 

Damn, I didn't realise the stock mounts were that much.

Here's some mounts that are more adjustable for a little more money:

http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?&PH...d=28&catcount=

You probably don't need the adjustment if it's just a street car, but you might be able to get negative camber on the stock springs with these.

 

Here's the update...

I disassembled the brakes and repacked the bearings being extra exact with the torque wrench this time. One of the new brake pads showed a little uneven wear like maybe it had slipped out a little bit. The grinding is definately better.

There is still a loose feel when I turn at parking lot speeds like the camber is loose or something. I think this is maybe the strut mounts like y'all said so I ordered a bunch of new parts. (I can justify this since I don't have a car payment) So I've got KYB struts and shocks on order, plus the Spohn expensive strut mounts. While I'm at it, I'm replacing the saggy springs as well with Federal Mogul 5662/5665 combination (nice price!). I'm gonna cut 1/2 coil off the 5662's for the front so I don't get that 1986 look. I'm planning on running as much negative camber as I can get on the front. But I'm not planning on cutting the rear springs. Anybody think that not cutting the rears will screw up my handling?

Thanks for all the advice. I had no idea struts mounts were a wear item.

 

If you are planning on cutting the springs, why not just get the lowering springs so you dont compromise the integrety of the stock replacement springs?

Besides, if you cut them and they fail, you won't be able to get them replaced...

I would look for sure at the lowering springs if you want to drop the car's stance a little bit. It's safer, built already with the lowering in mind and you wont have to do any extra work like cutting them.

 

Because the lowering springs cost twice as much. I've read a lot of posts where people cut the moog springs with no complaints. From what other people have said, as long as you dont' use heat and go slow, there is no damage to the springs.

 

Thought I'd give an update.

Changed the front springs and struts to the Fed mogul 5662 and KYB GR2. *** what a pain in the ***!!! Took two days. Also changed the strut mounts to the Spohn pricey ones. Anyway, really happy with the difference. It's like a different world. Plus changed wheels to the 16" GTA's with NITTO 450's. No more grinding.

Tonight I changed the rear shocks and springs to Fed Mogul CC635 and KYB GR2's. Super easy job. The springs didn't seem any different than stock though. And actually the 7+ year old Monroe Sensatrack shocks that I took off were stiffer than the brand new KYB's. So now the back end is actually looser than before. If anybody complains that CC635 springs are too stiff, they're crazy. Tell them to get some cheap shocks. Now I've got to get some stiffer ones!

Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Without these boards I don't know what I'd do! Probably spend a lot of money on labor.