I'm guessing this is not a normal occurence, and this is a bad thing, (I can give a pic if it helps), but can anyone hazard a guess as to why this would happen, and how to prevent it?

Also, is there any logical reason why the previous owner would put in a nice new sway bar, nice new red poly swaybar-axle bushings, then put on the RHS a new poly endlink, and leave the stock rubber one on the left...? any guesses, aside from being a mickey mouse?


Thanks

 

k, well either way, I had to cut them off to seperate them from the sway bar.... I'm repainting this goofy yellow sway bar to be black.... damn ***** previous owner...

anyway, does anyone know the P/N for the rear sway bar endlinks? I can't find them on energy suspensions webpage, only the front endlinks.... same part ?
I can't really measure mine, as they were bent, and now in pieces...
Thanks
-J

 

My front and rear sway bar endlinks are sheared off completely, so I can't really measure them. However, I have emailed Energy Suspension to see if they know and will post the reply here as soon as I get it.

Dave
87 IROC

 

Reply from Energy Suspension:

I think we show the rear sway bar sets at the end of the Camaro listing. The bushings are only available with the complete rear kit. They are bushings only so if you are missing the hardware, you will have to buy good used or they may still be available through your local GM dealer.

I somehow get the impression that he misunderstood the question. However, after checking out summitracing.com we can buy a complete rear sway bar mounting kit that includes the endlinks and the bushings/brackets that go in the center.

HTH

Dave
87 IROC-Z

 

hmm, yea he musta misunderstood...

I found those, yea, 21mm rear sway bar... I'm not sure what I already have, but my frame bushings are fine....
I'll email them and check on just the endlinks, and sizing...If only summit had that mentioned...

 

ok, got a response, he says they don't make endlink kits with hardware for my car...

I don't offer end link kits w/hardware the camaro/firebird. You will have to buy used or new from the Dealer.

so, if someone could be so kind as to tell me how long their endlinks are, i'd greatly appreciate it... (rears)

 

This is almost funny. I was at my local Auto Zone this morning and they sell end link sets in various sizes by Energy Suspension. There was a sign by them that said to check the catalog for correct sizing, but the autozone didn't have a catalog handy, so I thought the website would have that info.

I might be able to take one of the sheared endlinks into the zone later this evening and see if I can try and come up with the correct size - or else I will have to order the summit kit.

BTW - I have the 24mm rear sway bar on my Iroc, so it might be different than what you need if yours is a smaller bar.

Dave

 

I should measure up my bar for comparison sake...
but I had a 2.25" long sleeve on mine, and energy suspension doesn't make that size... 2" or 2 3/8"
By the way it was bent, i'm guessing that was too long, so i'm going to try a 2" one. If anyone knows the "correct" length that I should have, speak up now...

 

http://www.p-s-t.com/gm/gmswaybu.html#links

performance suspension technology. i am using all their stuff and it works just as good as energy suspension. give them a call.

 

Ok so I got kinda lucky. Thr front end links are the same on my 87 IROC as they are on a 79 Camaro which I just happened to have a spare set. Front end link problem solved. I then checked the rears against the fronts are they are the same! so if you can find the part # for the fronts you should have the same part # for the rears. Just make sure that the rear sway bar is parallel to the ground when installed and torqued to spec.

Dave

 

i would have to wonder if someone hasn't been into yours before. my fronts are longer than my rear ones. the stock ones were the same way.

 

Autozone can look up the Energy Suspension part # in their computer if you ask them (or are in there enough like me and can run the computer by yourself...).

 

i bouth the slightly longer sway bar endlink from energy suspension and cut the spacing sleeve to the same as my old ones. There, you ahve a perfect fit.

 

Unfortunately, you don't. The threads are made a certain length, and the nut stops turning at the proper preload on the bushings. Since you shortened the sleeve, the nut will stop before the proper preload is attained. Measure the length of your cut sleeve, and buy a new pair that same length.

 

I bought the Energy Suspension link kits from Auto Zone.The kits are the same for the front and rear on my '83 Z28(this may or not be the case for other years).The kit is P/N 9.8117 "R" end letter = red bushings,"G" end letter = black bushings.But it's best to measure your exsisting bushings to make sure you get the correct kit(s).ES has a chart on the back on the link kits that gives the lengths of each of thier kits.
Auto Zone also carries the ES lube P/N 9.11110(P/N on the tubes of lube is 9.11108).Comes with 3 tubes.
One thing I found on the rear bar jack the car up and put her on jackstands.This is safer and it avoids preloading the sway bar itself if you try doing one side at a time.

 

well it works just fine. i can tighten it more or loosen it more if i want i have so the bushings look like they're supposed to be.

 

Works better than a broken endlink? Yes

Works correctly? No

You bolt them on, run the nut all the way down until it stops, and that is the correct preload. They are NON-ADJUSTABLE.

 

All you need is a new bolt, thats no big deal.

 

Is this a universal bolt, or dependant on the length of the sway bar endlink sleeve?

Enquiring minds want to know!

 

The bolts included in most of those kits are just off the shelf bolts anyway (they are not shoulder or tapered seat bolts, only the factory ones are), grade 5 at that. They try to fool you with the cad plating, grade 5 are usually just zinc plated. I always replace them with grade 8, harder to bend and/or break. You can go to any hardware or decent auto parts store and find them. If you're worried about preload, tighten it up, measure the torque, and just set it to that torque reading with the new setup.

 

Why is this so dammed hard? They are shouldered to match the sleeve length and bushings, and usually grade 8 (grade 5 would only be good for about 15-20lb-ft and you'd probably snap them installing them)

If what you're getting is not then quit buying junk, even the ES, Prothane or Addco stuff is cheap, and the TRW or a good “HD replacement” would get you poly bushings and proper hardware for like $6…

 

My ES poly endlinks (front and rear), had bolts with 3 lines on them, in my meagre experience that means it's a grade 5 bolt. I'm not terribly worried about them though.

 

Exactly. Its an off the shelf, common, everyday hardware store variety grade 5 bolt, there's no shoulder its just like every other bolt that isnt threaded the whole way. Next time check the marks on the bolt that tell you what grade it is, they are really easy to read and understand.