broken crossmember bolt
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From: Dublin, OH
Car: 85 Monte Carlo, 93 C1500, 98 Neon
Engine: 355, 4.3L, 2.0 DOHC
Transmission: T5, 4L60E, T350
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.42, 3.94
broken crossmember bolt
I'm sure many of you guys have had tranny crossmember bolts break off when taking out the crossmember. My question is, how have you repaired it?
In my application, the bolts are severely rusted and it seems that an easy-out is not an option. I already tried to drill through the bolt with little success. I drilled in maybe 1/4" and then numerous bits got extra dull and wouldn't cut anymore. Maybe my drill bits just suck?
I was thinking of drilling a few new holes in the subframes and using sheet metal screws.
Any suggestions?
In my application, the bolts are severely rusted and it seems that an easy-out is not an option. I already tried to drill through the bolt with little success. I drilled in maybe 1/4" and then numerous bits got extra dull and wouldn't cut anymore. Maybe my drill bits just suck?
I was thinking of drilling a few new holes in the subframes and using sheet metal screws.
Any suggestions?
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Posts: 13,622
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
sheet metal screws definately wouldn't hold it up. you need to get some real drill bits that are intended for drilling through hardened metal. Look in a grainger catalog, etc.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
After a heavy soaking of PB, mine came out with a left handed bit and a hi torque drill. All I hade to do was re-tap. Perhaps I got lucky...
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Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 57
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From: Dublin, OH
Car: 85 Monte Carlo, 93 C1500, 98 Neon
Engine: 355, 4.3L, 2.0 DOHC
Transmission: T5, 4L60E, T350
Axle/Gears: 2.73, 3.42, 3.94
cool.
thanks, those options beat the heck out of using a torch and f*cking everything up.
thanks, those options beat the heck out of using a torch and f*cking everything up.
I've been around 2 cars that went on w/ life on 3 bolts. you have to remeber that your torque arm is pulling up on the trans...- not saying this is the best thing to do, but 4 bolts is kinda over-kill...
- I should also note that these cars had subframe connectors, which shouldn't really matter, but maybe w/ less twist...
- I should also note that these cars had subframe connectors, which shouldn't really matter, but maybe w/ less twist...
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,221
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Originally posted by Shagwell
I've been around 2 cars that went on w/ life on 3 bolts. you have to remeber that your torque arm is pulling up on the trans...- not saying this is the best thing to do, but 4 bolts is kinda over-kill...
- I should also note that these cars had subframe connectors, which shouldn't really matter, but maybe w/ less twist...
I've been around 2 cars that went on w/ life on 3 bolts. you have to remeber that your torque arm is pulling up on the trans...- not saying this is the best thing to do, but 4 bolts is kinda over-kill...
- I should also note that these cars had subframe connectors, which shouldn't really matter, but maybe w/ less twist...
also you have 2 remeber under braking the arm pushes down on the Xmember...
BTW I only have 3 bolts till i fix it but im going on 4 yrs now
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
I've drilled it out completely and dropped a bolt in though one of the access holes in the subframe. I used one of those long magnetic sticks and fed it though tell it fell in. Then wedged it in with something and put a nut on the bottom and tighted it up.
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