Whats the fastest you've gone on lowering springs, preferablely Eibach Sportlines but any will do i guess. I want a Fast all around car, getting tired of just drag racing it, i wanna go on long cruises, car shows, road courses, drag strip, everything.

Now id liek to get sportlines for my car but i'm curious how fast some of you are going on the drag strip, will it absolutly kill the performance? My best friend has an 04 cobra dropped 2 inchs and he's trapping 120+mph, i have to compete!!!

Thanks MJ

 

Maybe one of you suspension freaks can point me in the right direction. I guess my main goal is to mix both drag racing, road racing and street cruising (mainly looks! i want a set of 18s which usualyl means at least a 2 inch drop) as good as i can. I realize they are both very different worlds, my car has been primarily drag as u can tell from my sig I'm looking for the best in-between srings as i can get. I already have 12 adjustable QA1s in the back which i no will work fine, bigger rear swaybar in the rear, adjustable PHB. All i have that is stock is the front struts and the 4 springs.

Which do u feel are the best springs, or setup?
I think the sportlines being 600# springs should drive ok, i dont think they'll be real hard and stiff, stock iroc are about 550-600 if i'm not mistaken?? Ok i'll let some others reply..

And again, how fast have u gone on lowering springs, if i see some fast lowered cars it'll sell me on the sportlines :P

MJ

 

I don't drag race anymore, just auto-x and drive fast.
I can do 130mph (gear limited) with my sportlines and the ride is great, very stable and smooth.

 

thanks zepher, how would u say weight tranfer is with the sportlines vs prokit? My buddy has intrax, his car looks good but rides like a brick, i definately dont like that.

As i mentioned above i have adjustable shocks on the rear so i can loosen them up a tad if i'm heading to the drag strip so it should hook pretty good assuming the springs wont be too stiff, which i dont think they will but tahts the reason for this post, to be sure. Basically i want a ride that'll corner good but not totally kill me when i head to the strip, any mediocure springs anybody can recommend? After doing more searchs i'm kind of torn between teh prokit and sportlines...

 

just an FYI
those COBRAS from the factory where 390 Hp and 390 ftlbs of tourk stock before mods---
this was rear brake hp from what I have been told and the rear of the cobra is independant suspension

late
r and

GB

rk

 

whats up guys. i have an 86 iroc lowered with eibach sportlines, and will have about 625 horse power from a 400 sb reving to about 8,000rpm's. i will have 285/40/17 tires out back and it should run 10's on street tires, but with the 5 speed might have lil more traction problem. when lowering a car like ours, you loose tones of traction in a drag racing environment. but i had a friend who had a 90 iroc that was lowered about 2 inches and he ran 10.70's with it on street tires. but im not sure what springs they were.

 

This is indeed true, stock my buddy dyno'd 370rwhp (8psi), after a 2.8 pulley and exhaust he dyno'd 470rwhp (14psi, trapped 120mph with this setup), and now he has a Kenne Bell and a 50shot of nitrous dyno'ing 625rwhp weighing in at 4000lbs.

My LS1 is not stock, with full boltons, cam and 150shot of nitrous i should be about 500-550rwhp however i weigh 3200-3300lbs, that will be the key factor in me keepin up with him

86irocterror, good luck runnin 10s on street tires with 625hp. My iroc now makes 550hp with the carb'd 383 and i couldnt hook for nothing on street tires, it ONLY grab'd in third gear lol and that was without the nitrous, once i put my MT ET streets on 28x11.5 it started doing what u see in my sig, again without the nitrous running 10s all day long and 9s on spray

Back on topic, i'm bored with the primary drag car.. My main concern is a lowering spring not allowing my car to tranfer any weight, i realize its gonna hurt me alittle tho, trying to have a good all around car one must give up alittle bit which i'm willing to do I want to join zepher in the twisties as well as the drags

 

my future goal with a third gen...10 second car that can take twisties...in other words a car that beats almost anything lol...

Ill have a pro-kit on my car in a month with 17s...i guess ill let you know then how it is.

 

Since its not been said. You will need to get everything in the rear of the car, adjustable. You will need LCA brackets, adjustable panhard, LCA's, torque arm, and adjustable shocks front n rear.

That way, with a little bit of time you can adjust everything to your needs.

Yes, you will loose a bit of weight transfer on drag racing if you want to auto-x it as well. UNLESS, you dont mind swapping out rear springs at the same time and find a middle way matching front set.

 

I had typed a reply to this earlier but decided not to post it because it didnt seem helpfull (since you were asking for experiences and I'm not into drag racing). But like you've already mentioned, the differences in weight transfer between the two applications is gonna make it tough to get the best of both worlds. I would agree with what Dale said, you would want alot of adjustable parts and swapping the rear springs to different rate springs for the different applications might not be a bad idea. So like one spring set for drag, one set for handling (they are easy to swap out so no biggie). Swaybars would also be tricky, I know alot of drag guys dont run a front swaybar but you definately want to run one for handling applications.

 

Definately let me knwo how u make out.

I am all set there, i have a Strange 12bolt (33spline axles, 4.10 gears, HD Eaton posi), Lakewood LCAs, BMR relocation brackets, QA1 adjustables in the rear, Spohn Torque Arm.. All i need is an adjustable Panhard and new springs, i've been running stock springs with airbags due to my previous venture in making an all out Street/Strip car, the airbags are comming out as well.


CrazyHawaiian, i am open to any and all suggestions, i no you have alot of suspension know-how. I just finished up reading your big post about weight jacks as well. If there was somewhere around my area that did drifting i'd be very interested in giving that a whirl too, like i said i want a great all around car. I am looking for the best mediocure spring, as i said i realize that if i choose a spring for autoX it'll hurt me in drag racing, and if i choose a spring for drag racing it'll kill me in autoX. I want the guy in the middle, If a stock spring is better for drag, and a sportline is better for autoX and you tell me that the prokit spring is an inbetweener, than i want the prokit I think the stock IROC springs are a good medium spring, they corner decnt and they transfer weight decent as well, only thing i have against them is i wanna be a bit lower I'm still feeling the sportline with the 600# rate is my spring of choice but i'll see what other reply's i can get out of this thread. I dont want to go thru changing springs everytime i go out for some activity, however i probly will play with the front sway bar as u mentioned, i dont mind putting that on and off the car, 4 bolts is easy

Thanks for the reply's all, and keep them comming! I'll keep doin searchs as well.

MJ

 

a formula 1 car should do the trick

 

here is the only vid of my car launching,
http://www.transamws6.com/video/race.wmv

 

I can only speak for my pro-kit..they are just one part of the equation there are all the supporting actors in play below:

LCA relocation brackets, hotchkis LCAs, adj. panhard,1in rear sway bar, 11/4in front bar, polygraphite a-arm bushings, wonderbar, strut brace and kybs.. oh and 275/40/17 bfgs..it went 13.4 @ 104 in bolt-on mode (288rwhp/282rwtq) with a 2.2 60', Zepher drove that BTW since it was a tapdance between traction and 50ft burnouts and I couldn't launch it well at all...

After heads and cam(374rwhp/360rwtq), though never ran at the track it went 155+mph in a roll-on with a stang, the suspension was rock solid and completely worry free, in fact the only reason I realized how fast I was going was because I just realized I had redlined fourth gear and shifted into fifth.

Since then the only thing i have switched was Bilstein shocks instead of the KYBs, I lost nothing in handling and gained a bit in ride comfort over small bumps..

With this setup the car takes a corner and bites in.. though one of the improvements that I felt the most was my strut brace from BMR it made transitions from straight to twisty completly stable. If the rear end breaks loose on something slick or with power it is a very predictable and smooth oversteer.

 

Well I dont have much knowhow, but I do like to experiment alot and try different stuff. You can get springs that are the same rates as the IROC-Z springs at whatever height you'd want. I think stock springs are around 14" tall uncompressed. But I would be carefull about going too low on the ride height because that might throw off the weight transfer. I dunno much about drag racing, would it be correct to say you want front to rear weight transfer off the line to help the rearend squat down and get traction?

 

looks nice under your car. Just need an adjustable panhard.

As you said, bags will be coming out. Thats good as it will help in squat as you know, but rebound will then be slow.


I think mainly, you will have to somehow swap rear springs depending on your condition, and find a nice middle front setup. Rears are easy to change, fronts are pita.

 

I wise man once told me, you can't have both. Pick one.
A 2.2 60' is absolutely horrible. If you ever race in a class then you will never be competetive. YOu'll be slower then everyone else in both classes. As long as you understand that, happy motoring.

 

how bout this... eibach sportlines, WS6 sway bars, 17's...and 1.66 60fts? It can be done...I'm doing it. BFG DR's would hook a little harder, but I'm hoping Mickey will release a 315/35/17 DR. - With the new chassis I'm shooting for 1.4X 60fts on 17's. That's with full power and a/c....

If your bar/pinion angles are right you can hook just as hard lowered...

 

Shagwell, right on! i like what i'm hearing! i've been searching alot more on all forums, feeling pretty confident about the sprotlines. good luck to u this summer on your goals!

CrazyHawiian, as u said at the drag strip it is about weight tranfer from front to back, I can control alot of it with my adjustable shocks tho, i think i will just have to be carefull about going too soft because there are no bump stops, other than that there is alot of adjustablity and i think i can make it work. Worst case i just did alittle trial and error myself and i switch them for something else right?

Freebird, that is a good point, but on a postive note i do no plan on running any sort of class, all i really do at the track is go on the Ameture night with friends and grudge race. The past year i was out for blood racing in classes and calling out the big boys around town, now i'm over it and bored. Besides drag racing as i said above i'd like to try my driving abilitys in other forms such as road coarse, autox, drifting whatever i can get into i will.. Plus if i do get the itch to jump into drag racing and race in some class i have a nice 67 and 69 camaro here for that All the more reason to change up my IROC, no sense in having 3 drag/street cars

J's TA, sounds like a pimp setup, have any pix??

Dale, i thought about the rebound as well but again i think i can get a good handle on both rebound and compression thru my shocks rather than the springs. I did alot of trial and error with the adjustable shocks this past summer and they are very adjustable to say the least ha. I usually left them at the 6th click, but i've had them on 4 and they were WAY loose, and i've had them up to 7 which was way too stiff. Even if the sportlines are slitghty stiffer i think i can just go one click looser when i'm heading to the track and fix the problem. Well one way to find out right! lol

all good info, thanks guys! keep the opinions flying

MJ

 

well, with tokico 5ways on all 4's, and the hotchkiss springs, i ran a 1.74 60' on 315 dr's - 12.0 @114

 

does anyone drag race or autox with drop zone spings, im curious how they are performance wise, since ive heard good things about them driveablity wise.

 

I was refuring to the rebound being slow with bags in and pumped up.

I could have worded that better the first time, my bad.

 

Thanks, I should of added that 2.2 60 ft is on street tires no drag radials, no special prep just drive up and go.. I am sure Zepher could of gone lower but he only got 2 runs I only got one and that was it.. though the car was built to not be a strip car. You can get the times better with not much trouble, Tires, air down, adj. torque arm etc.. but I wanted a straight up street and corner performer, I have yet to have been at a time when I wanted to go fast and got out of my car to change my tires, adjust the torque arm, etc.. But if the track blows your hair back I am OK with it!

I don't have any current pix, if you search my username you will see the LT1 buildup pics that were posted..

There will be some more pics to come though:

She is down for the next buildup now.. TFS heads from Lloyd Elliot (289/219@.600), and a custom supervic efi converted intake and cam.. Stroker..The setup also uses some ford parts namely a sullivans intake elbow, and dual 62mm throttle body.. Should be fun the goal is 450rwhp+ with a hydraulic cam in the 230s.

I decided to go a bit different and to give the LS1 guys something to chase, besides I like making vette owners think something is wrong with their car when they see a 24 year old T/A keeping up with them.

 

thats why I won't run slicks/air down/ice the intake/etc... I go to the track and run exactly what I run everyday. Same air pressure, same pinion angle, same everything. My car is a factory WS6 car that I put the Eibach sportline kit on. Tube torque arm, box lca's, relocates, in-floor frame(way beyond sfc's), 8-point cage - all of which is homemade.

 

Cool,

I don't run drag radials at all.. Do you notice any handling difference? I have heard on the twisties they make the car feel a bit loose.. Though all heresay not my own experience.

 

the sidewalls on the dr's are more flexiable - so it feels like the back of the car is stepping out - you do get used to it after a while because they DO hold... it is a bit unnerving the first time you feel it though

 

I guy here ran DR''s in the autocross one time just for kicks because he was having problems spinning on stock rubber.

He said he would never do that again, to much flex and not a secure enough feel to him.

 

i've run the autocross on dr's before - they do stick like i said, but on that first turn in you can feel the car go against the sidewalls on them... i am also running a 35series dragh radial, and that helps a lot.

 

I'm not an auto-cross or a drag set-up with what I have, just all-around, fun-to-drive street car. The DR's(35 series here too) do everything I throw at them. I built the car to be fast enough and to enjoy it, not just race it....but of course, I'm now going for more. More motor and full frame(cutting out all unibody) to lighten the load...