I understand I can search to find most of the answers to questions I may have. But my main questions is pertaining to the setup shown here:

Hotchkis Rear Suspension Packages: HSS-1801 - summitracing.com

I've got an '89 Z28 TPI originally a 305ci with a built 350ci currently with an est. 325hp. I plan on running 100 shot wetkit nitrous next summer. In the mean time I'm going to do upgrade quite a bit which should bring up around 380hp w/o nos.

The 700r4 trannie is built up to handle an est. 550hp with a stage II shift kit, mild 2300 stall converter and stock 2.73 gears.

The right rear axle has a slight bend. I was all ready going to replace that along with the gears but then I started thinking about the following two questions:

#1
Should I upgrade posi units as well as the axle, gears and supports?

#2
Is it worth it to purchase the Hotchkis rear end kit shown above or should I be looking for something else?


Again, side notes to remember:

- I should be running at least 400rwhp with nos.

- I'll be running slicks.

- I'm thinking of upgrading to Strange 3.42 gears.

- I all ready have Hotchkis subframe connectors.

- Current suspension is all stock. Brakes are stock (rear drums). rear end is Stock (10 bolt lsd 2.73 gears)

- No rust.

- Any other suggestions about strengthening my rear end or suspension in general would be helpful. I'm sort of new at this...so please be patient.

Thanks in advance.

 

that's way too much money for a panhard and lca's.
- Fix your diff, then get lca relocates and a good set of lca's.

 

I agree. Too much money all the way around.

You don't need to replace the panhard bar at all, if your car is stock height more or less, and all you're doing is drag racing.

You can get a pair of Lakewood lower control arms for about $100.

The single biggest bang-for-the-buck mod you can do to the rear suspension for drag racing traction, is lower control arm relocation brackets.

The single most important mod to the car, is subframe connectors.

Identify the weakest points in your car first, and spend your money there. Any other strategy wastes money.

If I was going to drag-race a stock one of these cars, those 3 things right there, would be the first things I'd do to it; before I even touched the motor. Sometimes you can shave a half-second or more off your ¼-mile time by making the suspension work right, with no more power at all.

 

bent rear axle, planning 400RWHP, slicks... Sounds like a good time upgrade the rear.
I think beefing up a 10 bolt *might* do you, but i'd be leery. Perhaps time to go to a 9" or 12 bolt. Big $$ though, so your choice. A built 10 bolt can be done cheaper than $2500, (far cheaper)....

you can also box your stock panhard and LCA's if you want. Poly bushings are a GREAT idea. If you get a "set" for your 3rd gen, you can save some cash rather than buying each bit seperately... Since i'd be willing to wager after you put a bit of poly in, you'll be back buying the rest soon after

 

LCA's like these?

Lakewood Rear Lower Control Bars: LAK-20140 - summitracing.com

And relocation brackets like these?

Granatelli Motor Sports Control Arm Relocation Brackets: GRN-500009 - summitracing.com


Would something like this work for the bushing kit?

Energy Suspension Hyperflex Bushing Kits: ENS-3-18131G - summitracing.com

Or is it worth it go the more expensive route with these?

Prothane Urethane Suspension Bushing Kits: PTP-7-2008 - summitracing.com

And finally. Other than gears and upgraded posi...what else could I do to "beef up" my rear-end? What about the axle itself? Something like this:

Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles: MSR-A102804 - summitracing.com

Sorry for being such a pain in the ***. I'm totally new to extensive modifications. My daily driver is a Lincoln LS. Thanks in advance.

 

All of the above (with the cheaper Energy bushing kit) totals $535.73 from summit plus I'd still have to get gears. Being that I'm going to be running at least a 100 shot of nos I've been told 3.42 gears are better with the 700r4 than 3.73s. I'm looking at these Strange Pro-street 3.42 series II gears for $225.00 Part # 23-875342-X:

Thunder Racing - Gears & Install Kits

That would bring my total cost for bushings, LCAs, relocators, rear axle, and gears to $760.73. I'm sure if I bargain hunted I could get that much cheaper. But how much cheaper? Any suggestions or "insider hints"?


THANKS

 

I'd recommend Spohn's relocation brackets, they're a nice part, fit good and are cheaper than the ones you listed.

 

Thanks Evil...I know that the parts listed above aren't necessarily the cheapest. So I'm really hoping you guys can continue to guide me in the right direction. By the way...I'm also looking for a highe stall converter...now I'm at 2300 I think...any suggestions???

 

.

 

yes on the lakewood lca's. - forget about all the other poly stuff till you need it.(as in when what you have is worn out). - get the lca relocate brackets and a decent set of sub-frame connectors. If you do a search on here, you'll find tons of info on this stuff.

- DO NOT RUN PRO GEARS!!!!!! - They're built for drag-race only and will wear out in no time on the street. - Look at companies like yukon gear and motive.

 

So far, Edge racing converters has done me good but I've only just ordered mine up last week. Andre seems to know his stuff and other people here that are running Edge converters are happy with them. Mine should be here in a couple days and I can't wait to try it out.

 

for converters, call the manufacturer and speak to a tech about your combination. They'll have better advice than anyone on this board. You'll need to specify cam size/engine powerband, gear ratio, type of trans, approx weight, and intended use of the vehicle. -
stay away from the cheapies(TCI, B&M, etc) - you'll get less than you pay for....

 

Thanks.

Do you think Hotchkis frame connectors, lakewood LCAs and Spohns relocation brackets will give my stock 10bolt seriesII rearend enough strength to withhold 400rwhp or should I start looking for a used 12 bolt rear end? I'd like to save as much $$ as possible...

Thanks again...

I have searched...but haven't been able to find a solid answer.

 

those'll stiffen up the car, and help it hook up more.
But it won't strengthen it.

I don't think you need a 12 bolt yet. Perhaps some beefing up of your 10 bolt. I did this over the winter myself. Ratech solid pinion spacer, summit girdle ($10 off right now ) and new bearings and seals all around. Welded the tubes too.

 

Thanks for responding so quick. I'm only 20 and I've got little auto experience other than working friends/family on their cars.

It doesn't sound like a DIY for someone like me just yet. Whats reasonable $$$ to have a friend/family help me with this? What about a shop?

 

i'm 22, the only car experience I have is with my TA. I've had it for 2 years, and only started working on it last summer. Ya learn fast.

What are you talking about doing? The suspension or the rear end beef up ?
Neither one is particularly difficult. Let me know, I could show you the threads I posted circa 6 months ago, asking how to do it

 

I believe the tranny is all ready built to handle 500-600hp. I still have to get that checked out...

My main concern is beefing up the rear-end - so that is what I'm worried about the cost of.

Keep in mind that mods soon to come combined with the mods all ready listed should put me at a VERY conservative 400rwhp:

32 lbs accel injectors
higher stall converter - 2800+
Holley 58mm TB
Holley StealthRam intake manifold w/ fuel rail kit and afpr
custom ram-air
3.42 gears (suggestions - need for stage II carrier)
LCAs and relocators
lowering springs - Eibach?
MSD ignition 6AL
B&M Console Megashifter
March underdrive pulleys
Earl's hyperfirm brakeline kit
drilled/slotted rotors
Slicks
100-150 shot nitrous

 

- you're wasting money on the injectors and the TB. Neither are needed for less than about 425. Past that, still only 24 injectors till much higher. - Also, don't buy accel injectors, get the SVO's.

 

You might want to start a search for a used 12 bolt or nine inch for your car. It is gonna cost quit abit but the insurance and piece of mind are comforting. Unfortunately every single one I see for sale seems to be very far from me. Maybe you will have better luck!
-SmallTires

 

Thanks for the input but right now I was told my est. HP should be about 325. With a 150 shot nos alone I should be well past 450hp...

Along with all the other mods:
Holley StealthRam intake manifold w/ fuel rail kit and afpr (25-30hp?)
custom ram-air
3.42 gears (suggestions - need for stage II carrier)
LCAs and relocators
lowering springs - Eibach?
MSD ignition 6AL
B&M Console Megashifter
March underdrive pulleys (10-15hp?)
Earl's hyperfirm brakeline kit
drilled/slotted rotors
Slicks

Don't you think upgrading TB and injectors only makes sense after all that? By that time I'll be over 500hp. Isn't it air and fuel right? Isn't that what its all about? Especially considering the fact that I am currently running stock 19# injectors from a 305 on a built 350 truck block AND I'm considering upgrading the cam to .480 or .510 or upgrading rr's to 1.6r, any suggestions on that?

 

from what i remember, even the GM 502 crate motor uses a 48 mm TB just like our cars.

 

our stock tb flows around 780 cfm - it will support around 600hp. - Also, air/fuel is only a consideration for n/a power, the bottle puts its own air and fuel in(assuming wet kit, if not, still it's own air). For 450 hp I still probably wouldn't go more than 24lb injectors, maybe 26ish, deffinitly 24's for 325 + wet kit. Hell, I've got 19lb 305 injectors on a ported vortec headed 355 TPI, putting out around 375 hp. It does start to go lean around 4800, but since it turns a max of 5200 and it's in a daily driven 4wd(rarely sees wot), I haven't gotten too excited....(a year and counting) - If you're gonna change the cam, get a cam to run 1.5 rockers with. Higher ratio rockers in a sbc cost you power. They only work if you need more cam, meaning an equal spec set-up with 1.5 rockers will net you more power.
- also, I do agree that if you're planning slicks you'll be needing to upgrade your diff. Dollar for dollar a 12 bolt or a 9" is better off than a "beefed" 10 bolt.