Tubular K-Member
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Junior Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Fredericksburg VA
Axle/Gears: stock
Tubular K-Member
Hey all, First post here. I am looking at installing the tubular K-member in my IROC after I pull the TPI out. I am wondering if anyone has done it before and if there is heavy modifications involved with that perticular install. I found the part on hawksthirdgenparts.com. Right on the front page. It says the bennifits are really worth it. Lighter weight, room for long tube headers. All sounds like gravy to me. Thanks and glad to be a part of this page.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Welcome. You'll find that this site is a fountain of info. A
will provide the info you need.
JamesC
will provide the info you need.JamesC
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 92
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Check out my cardomain site: 1991 Chevrolet Camaro - Dennis's Chevrolet
I have tubular everything and long tubes.... get some specific questions and PM me or post, I will help you out.
I have tubular everything and long tubes.... get some specific questions and PM me or post, I will help you out.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Ah, the energy and ambition of youth! The amount of work you've put in on your rides makes this old fart tired
.
JamesC
JamesC
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, N.Y.
Car: 1983 z-28/SFC/bilsteins/adj.arms
Engine: 355sbc/Demon650dp/hedmanheaders/
Transmission: t-5, alum DS
Axle/Gears: 3.42 torsen posi, baer discs
dennis...your cardomain site is great! a very thorough diary of your build! god, such thought to detail!..how long of a time period does this cover, up to now? when did you buy the profab kmembers? i can't find them anymore....do you know? when do you envision the "finish"? i know these things never get completely finished...but up to paint and drivability? great job.......stan
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 92
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
It covers about 3 years believe it or not. Haha. I started when I was 19 and I am now 22. Yesterday i hit a huge milestone with the build. I finally got her all the way to Wocester. An hour from where I live. No heating or real driving issues at all. Body and paint guy says it will be about a month till I can start to expect it being done. So not much to do but wait.
I really appreciate the compliments. I put a TON of work into the car and a good amount into that website. Granted I am guilty of not updating in a long time, I have been stressed out trying to get the car drivable before the paint guy deadline.
So after the paint is done, I want to take it straight to get dynoed and then have it given a once over by a second set of eyes.
In the end I have built the entire thing by myself 100% so it would be nice to get a second opinion.
Thanks for chekcing it out. I promise to update the site the second I get the car back.
I got the K-memeber off ebay with the A-arms for $375 about 1.5-2 years ago. It was from a guy that worked for profab racing. It was a deal I couldn't pass up.
Everything looks just fine with it so far.
lemme know if you have any other questions.
-Dennis
I really appreciate the compliments. I put a TON of work into the car and a good amount into that website. Granted I am guilty of not updating in a long time, I have been stressed out trying to get the car drivable before the paint guy deadline.
So after the paint is done, I want to take it straight to get dynoed and then have it given a once over by a second set of eyes.
In the end I have built the entire thing by myself 100% so it would be nice to get a second opinion.
Thanks for chekcing it out. I promise to update the site the second I get the car back.
I got the K-memeber off ebay with the A-arms for $375 about 1.5-2 years ago. It was from a guy that worked for profab racing. It was a deal I couldn't pass up.
Everything looks just fine with it so far.
lemme know if you have any other questions.
-Dennis
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Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
Dennis I got one question for ya, ARE YOU F*****G nuts getting the car that high?? HOW?? Thats cool but THATS INSANE. How many jacks and 4x4s did you use to get it that high??
Nice site btw.
Nice site btw.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 92
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
I am assuming that you are talking about when I was working on it in my garadge...??? right?
That was done by dropping out the motor/trans/ rear and all.... then lifting the body by hand onto beams that I made out of an old bed frame. She held real nice and made it great for fixing the rust holes in the floor. I would recomend it to anyone with limited space and still wants to get all around the body for welding.
That was done by dropping out the motor/trans/ rear and all.... then lifting the body by hand onto beams that I made out of an old bed frame. She held real nice and made it great for fixing the rust holes in the floor. I would recomend it to anyone with limited space and still wants to get all around the body for welding.
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Brewster,NY
Car: 98 Camaro
Engine: 441ci LS7
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 4:10's
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
I am assuming that you are talking about when I was working on it in my garadge...??? right?
That was done by dropping out the motor/trans/ rear and all.... then lifting the body by hand onto beams that I made out of an old bed frame. She held real nice and made it great for fixing the rust holes in the floor. I would recomend it to anyone with limited space and still wants to get all around the body for welding.
That was done by dropping out the motor/trans/ rear and all.... then lifting the body by hand onto beams that I made out of an old bed frame. She held real nice and made it great for fixing the rust holes in the floor. I would recomend it to anyone with limited space and still wants to get all around the body for welding.
Nice job though, been looking through your site, your rust is (or was) a hell of a lot worse than mine, if only I had a MIG instead of a stick welder, it would be a lot easier (keep blowing holes and cant get rod to start 98% of the time).
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 92
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
It took 4 of us, not including me. 2 guys on each side... not huge guys either. I was the oldest at the old age of 19, the youngest was 16 I think. And we did it. 2 on each side and me under it, placing the cross beams as they lifted. If I ever need to rip my car appart again. I would do it again. Very good and cheap way to get all around the body.
I would pick up a MIG, cost me $195 from home depot. Came with everything too, and plugs into the wall and no need for external gas tanks. Real easy to get work done. Hope this helps.
I would pick up a MIG, cost me $195 from home depot. Came with everything too, and plugs into the wall and no need for external gas tanks. Real easy to get work done. Hope this helps.
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