PA racing k-member
PA racing k-member
Just wanted to let you guys know put on the PA racing k-member last week and it fit like a glove. looks really good. still gathering parts to put the motor in.
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 2
From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Hopefully it wont split and the spring perches pull away and sperate like my friends did :-)
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, N.Y.
Car: 1983 z-28/SFC/bilsteins/adj.arms
Engine: 355sbc/Demon650dp/hedmanheaders/
Transmission: t-5, alum DS
Axle/Gears: 3.42 torsen posi, baer discs
did you get the regular steel or cm? rack mounts?their a-arms?
I got the mild steel no spring perches and set up for an LSx motor. I am swapping in an 02 6ltr. I also got there lower a-arms and coil over kit. The coil over kit you don't get much. until i get it going good i just put the coil over kit on the stock struts. Later i will swap them for qa1's or something. No rack mounts I quess i will put them on later. I'm on a budget and just need to get it going for now. I am putting and s-10 manaul box on it for now.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
how much did it set you back... Im looking for the conversion one also and i dont think im gonna pay the almost $700 for spohn
If you are talking about the k-member with the mounts I think just a shade over $300. The k-member, a-arms, and coil over's if you buy the package is like mid to upper $700 range. I would have to look at the receit. I have not fit the motor yet so i hope that part of it is also nice. But it fits the car great. Hey i would love to have the high dollar expensive stuff like spohn or hawks, but i will be lucky to finish the car as it is with the money i have on this project. If it's cheaper and it works i will have to go for it.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 5
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
it bolts into the car just fine.. (usually)
their LS1 mounts are sometimes off... mine is only slightly off... a little prying (with a 3ft prybar) on the mount rubber is all i need to line it up... but its held in TIGHT. lol.
their LCA bushings leave alot to be desired sometimes... the metal bushing is sometimes too short, so when you tighten it, it puts a slight bind on the arm.
watch for this. if the center bushing is not SLIGHTLY longer then the nylon, shim it or make a longer one on a lathe.
btw, if you drive in the rain, eventually the grease will wash out of these bushings.
carefully measure the engine location once its in.. sometimes they have it off to the side.. in one case, ive seen the tailshaft a full 3" to the drivers side, because of crooked (but correctly spaced) mounts.
make sure you mount your front brake crossover line on the TOP REAR of the crossover bar.. i reccomend using little clamps that are either screwed or tacked to the crossmember.. if you use zip ties, they will rub and break.
measure your components and watch the alignment carefully.. between the arms and the crossmember, theres a chance it will be off somewhere.. you can make it read right on a alignment rack, but the arcs of travel will be off.
you'll want a wonderbar if you dont have one.. trust me on that.. even if its a drag car.
and last... its a minor annoyance, but theres SOOO much more room under the car, roadsand will kick up, hit the underside of the hood, and cover your motor easily... a annoyance, but i wouldnt want to give up that room for anything.. lol. it is great when it comes time to work on the car.
their LS1 mounts are sometimes off... mine is only slightly off... a little prying (with a 3ft prybar) on the mount rubber is all i need to line it up... but its held in TIGHT. lol.
their LCA bushings leave alot to be desired sometimes... the metal bushing is sometimes too short, so when you tighten it, it puts a slight bind on the arm.
watch for this. if the center bushing is not SLIGHTLY longer then the nylon, shim it or make a longer one on a lathe.
btw, if you drive in the rain, eventually the grease will wash out of these bushings.
carefully measure the engine location once its in.. sometimes they have it off to the side.. in one case, ive seen the tailshaft a full 3" to the drivers side, because of crooked (but correctly spaced) mounts.
make sure you mount your front brake crossover line on the TOP REAR of the crossover bar.. i reccomend using little clamps that are either screwed or tacked to the crossmember.. if you use zip ties, they will rub and break.
measure your components and watch the alignment carefully.. between the arms and the crossmember, theres a chance it will be off somewhere.. you can make it read right on a alignment rack, but the arcs of travel will be off.
you'll want a wonderbar if you dont have one.. trust me on that.. even if its a drag car.
and last... its a minor annoyance, but theres SOOO much more room under the car, roadsand will kick up, hit the underside of the hood, and cover your motor easily... a annoyance, but i wouldnt want to give up that room for anything.. lol. it is great when it comes time to work on the car.
wonderbar and strut tower bar are definate items you'll be happy you bought to go with it. definately upgrade the coilover setup as well. i ended up having to have my standard bilsteins converted. now i run custom air struts from air ride technologies... much nicer ride.
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Norway
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350 modifyed Stelth Ram
Transmission: 350 rew lock up
Axle/Gears: 9"
Re: PA racing k-member
I got one K-member from PA and I am mounting this day's....
but problems seem to appear the steering linkage touch the K-member.
Have anyone found the solution?
this is not a rack-member..
but problems seem to appear the steering linkage touch the K-member.
Have anyone found the solution?
this is not a rack-member..
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
From: p'cola FL
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: PA racing k-member
im really not a fan of the pa racing a arms eithr, or their bushings for the a arm.
at the time, its about all that was available.
im in the process of doing a coilover kit, and will probably modify the a arms to use quality rod ends.
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Norway
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350 modifyed Stelth Ram
Transmission: 350 rew lock up
Axle/Gears: 9"
Re: PA racing k-member
I now found a way to solve the steering problem. I did turn the center link around, that's all I had to do.
See this thread!
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...tubular-k.html
See this thread!
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...tubular-k.html
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