New spring vs old spring, and strut mount question
#1
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
New spring vs old spring, and strut mount question
Just pulled my driver side front coil spring. I have every reason to believe it was the original 170k F41 spring. I put it next to my stock replacement spring from Spohn. The new Spohn spring is about 3 inches shorter, and the material is fatter. Is this by design to allow for easier installation while maintaining stock ride quality, or do I potentially have the wrong spring?
About the strut mounts. How can I test them? I would like to not have to buy new ones if I dont have to, they are pricey.
Also, I have no idea if the strut is original as well, but I can pick up the steering knuckle that is hanging now by just the strut, bring it up, depressing the strut with ease all the way up with one hand, then let go and watch the whole thing drop back down. Is it safe to say that strut hasn't been going a damn thing for many years now? I have some Konis that are waiting to go on, spoil the surprise and tell me what kind of difference I'm in for
About the strut mounts. How can I test them? I would like to not have to buy new ones if I dont have to, they are pricey.
Also, I have no idea if the strut is original as well, but I can pick up the steering knuckle that is hanging now by just the strut, bring it up, depressing the strut with ease all the way up with one hand, then let go and watch the whole thing drop back down. Is it safe to say that strut hasn't been going a damn thing for many years now? I have some Konis that are waiting to go on, spoil the surprise and tell me what kind of difference I'm in for
#2
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Yea, those are different springs for sure. I wouldn't lose sleep over it, i'd throw on the new Spohn ones and just enjoy them.
Oh yea, those struts are shot. And no, tough cookies, you learn how those konis treat you on your own
Strut mounts - I'm not sure of any concrete test to say if they're still ok or not. The thing is, stock replacements of those are fairly pricey, might as well go to an aftermarket one anyway. You can leave them for now and do them later if you want, probably won't have too much of a detrimental effect.
Oh yea, those struts are shot. And no, tough cookies, you learn how those konis treat you on your own
Strut mounts - I'm not sure of any concrete test to say if they're still ok or not. The thing is, stock replacements of those are fairly pricey, might as well go to an aftermarket one anyway. You can leave them for now and do them later if you want, probably won't have too much of a detrimental effect.
#3
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
New springs are exactly one full coil shorter than the (stock F41?) springs I took out. They are also thicker, as you can see.
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
old springs were most likely the non-handling package ones, i forget their technical term, my springs look like the bottom ones though. No issues just pop them in and go.
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Car: 1989 Iroc rebuild
Engine: 355 carb'd
Transmission: 5spd
Axle/Gears: 3:08 pos for a while
springs
when i changed out to the new body,the IROC springs are alot shorter,yet thicker than the V6 springs pulled from the parts body,thought it was odd,but put the shorter IROC springs in
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
i believe the longer springs are called "progressive rate springs"
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#8
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
No, I think you can only get the progressive rate (aka cargo coil) springs for the rear. And they look REALLY weird. The gap between coils is noticeably different from one end to the other.
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