Has anyone replaced the seals in their steering gear? I'm just wondering if the kit from Napa or any other place comes with directions.

 

Yes I've done a couple. The kits include directions but they're not altogether clear. It's not too difficult as long as you're careful and don't get the parts mixed up. A full re-build kit will include bearings and pressure seals for the internal pieces. If you just want to replace the box seals it can go fairly quickly, and the worm gear and associated recirculating ball bearings don't need to be removed. I can help some if you decide to get into it.

Which seal(s) are leaking?

 

Woh that was quick NAF, I just got done sending you a PM.

Both the steering shaft seal and pitman arm seals are leaking. The gear seems to work fine, but I also have a little slop in the steering. Everything after the pitman arm has already been replaced, so I figure I should get a new rag joint and adjust the box. Last night I pulled the box, and am ready to work on it. How big of a task is replacing the bearings and such?

First plan of attack is to clean the box. Then what do you recommend?

 

Pick up a seal kit and check out the directions that come with it. Let me know if I can clarify anything.

The directions should tell you to remove the top cover and pull the pitman shaft out, then to crank the box to push the front cover out (all of this after removing the appropriate c-clips/retaining rings). If you crank it out too far you'll separate the worm shaft from the (name escapes me) and let all the ***** loose. Not too big a deal really just have to make sure you don't lose any and they can be set back in place with some heavy grease during re-assembly. It is easier though, to not let them spill.

Next will be the adjuster plug and input shaft and appropriate seals, etc.

Like anything else, keep careful track of the parts as they come out so you'll know how they go back in and keep everything as clean as possible.

Bench adjusting it after re-assembly will call for an inch-lb torque wrench but it can be adjusted to a reasonable level of accuracy without one.

Oh, on re-assembly a good coat of POR15 or the equivalent on the cast box is a good idea. I usually take a little time to shine up the aluminum top cover and spray it with some clear coat.

 

Is it worth replacing the bearings and pressure seals? Are these available seperately, in case I need them after opening it?

 

They should be part of a complete kit, which should run around $20-25 or so. Some of the lower priced kits may only provide specific seals, like input shaft seal, etc.

The pitman shaft bearing can be a pain. If the old one is in good shape it can probably be left in.. but while you're there...

Just take care not to damage or nick any of the sealing surfaces if you decide to drive the bearings out/new ones in. The kit should also tell you to wrap the splines of the pitman shaft with tape when re-inserting it into new seals to prevent damage to them.

 

Hey NAF, did you buy a spanner wrench to remove the adjuster or did you find another way to take it off?

I came across these directions while searching the net, for anyone who might need'm.

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_2.html

 

You should be able to use a large set of needle nose pliers. Tong tips in holes, hold it in and use a wrench to help turn it if needed. Good find on the instructions.