I'm going to convert my factory ps to a 4th gen rack & pinion setup and wanted to know if it's possible to use the stock ps pump with it. I assume not, but wanted to check.

 

I can't comment on the exact needs you are asking, but I have wanted to do this myself. I have been told that the pressure is different from rack and pinion to gearbox. If you figure something out please let me know.

 

That's what I've heard too. It's no sweat to pick up the r&p pump, just wanted to save some money.

 

did you ever complete your conversion? I've been trying to dig up more info on the swap because I've got a whole 4th gen K member and would like the upgrade.

I know, it's an old thread.

 

i can tell you right now that the 4th gen k member will not work

 

With a big enough hammer....JK!

I can see that, I was just saying that I have all of the rack & pinion setup.

Edit. after re-reading my original post I can see where the confusion was generated.

 

yea your bad lol...i actually took the 4th gen k member and sat it under my car to see how off it was and there is just no way lol

 

No, it's still collecting dust. I have everything measured just never started fabricating. You need to use a t-bird r&p because it has the same turn to turn length as the stock steering. The 4th gen rack comes up about an inch short. You need to cut the tierods to the right length and weld some mounts to the k member. A 4th gen steering shaft will work with a little modification. Then you'll need a different pump or to mount the pump higher to clear the steering shaft. Can't say if you'll need a bump steer kit but I doubt it so long as the mounts are in the right place.

 

Do you know what year T bird? I've seen a few of them at the local yards, and their cousins.

 

Mine's a '97.

 

Thanks!

 

So you already have the T bird rack installed correct?

 

No, see post #8.

 

Mybad.

 

I decided it's time to finally install this thing. Had to notch the k to get the rack as low as I need it and for proper steering shaft geometry, otherwise the rack joint would almoast be at a 90* angle to the column. Got the brackets tacked in as well. Next up is drilling 3/4" holes through the k member to weld in 2 tubes through to the backside of the k so I can bolt the rack on with a pair of 12" by 5/8" threaded rods.

 

It's in and man is this a quick, light little booger! It's supposed to be 3 turns lock to lock but mine's actually 2 1/2. I can steer with one finger. Hardly any road feel with 225 wide tires. I won't have any problem driving when I put 275 wide tires on this thing. Has the turning radius of a city bus because of the rack's internal turnstops so tight parking manuvers may get tedious but otherwise I'm happy. Dropping that iron behemoth of a steering box off the front end should eliminate the notorious frame cracking and drops about 20lbs off the front. Ended up welding studs on because the rack mounts are offset twoard the driver side. Otherwise I would have to do some serious trimming to the driver control arm. Grabbed a steering shaft from a safari and it almoast bolted right on, even had the correct end for the ford r&p, all I had to do was shave down the splines a bit and slip it on. Didn't need to cut & reweld the universal joints to get the steering wheel centered with the rack either, I just clocked the steering wheel & turn signal plate by shaving a tooth off the turn signal plate. I reused the stock lines by cutting one nut off the pressure side, slipping a bored out nut for the ford rack on and reflaring it. The return side fit perfect after adding an o-ring between the nut & flare end. Also had to cut about 2 1/2" off the inner tierods to bring the wheels in enough to be alignable. So here's the recipie-

'97 Thunderbird r&p- $200
2 4th gen camaro outer tierod ends- $45
'98 Safari steering shaft- $15 at local salvage yard
1' of 5/8" threaded bar to make studs- $5
4 5/8" nuts- $2
2 5/8" washers- $.60
3" exhaust pipe to notch k-member- $5

 

V8's might need a little tweaking to the oil pan as well, the top of the rack is just a bit higher than the top of the k. Lowering the rack isn't an option because it will change steering geometry and induce bump steer.

 

how many miles have you put on this setup? have you had any other problems with it?
Nice work.
Kory

 

Just got it in a couple weeks ago so a couple hundred miles. No other problems so far, can't wait to get wider tires on it though this lack of road feel is annoying. It's light as an Avalon.