I'm in the process of upgrading the suspension and I'm about to re-install the rear portion of things. I'm not sure about the adjustment on the konis. I screw the rod to the "zero" position and the little ball thing is all the way down. I'm assuming that is softest position for the shocks? Or is zero where you start and the first position is the softest? Also, what would you suggest for me? I'm going with 5665 moogs rear and 5662 for the front. I was going to to start at zero or 1 or whatever the softest position is. Thanks.

 

Koni's technical settings are 0-3. 4 positions total.

You have to push down the ball of cousre as you stated, and then turn the shaft all the way one direction while jiggling the shaft as you turn it. The ball should pop back out at each position so you will have to redepress it and continue to the next, and so on. Make sure you jiggle it so it clicks into each position and you can count them.

Now to make adjustments. Once you have it all the way to the softest setting and that confirmed (that is 0), that setting is for 'rebound only' You can NOT control the compression damper setting, only rebound damper.

Since compression force is what controls the tire coming up on a bump, that is what dictates 'harshness' or bump rate- this force is of course combined with the coil rate to give the overall compression force and part of the frequency.

To the actuall adjustment- the rebound. Rebound is what controls the chassis roll. It is what slows the car leaning into a corner or the rear jacking under braking, or the nose lifting under throttle. Rebound also controls frequency, it slows the recoil of the coil spring. TOO MUCH REBOUND can cause the tires to lift pressure nd slip or skid. It can even cause skipping of the front and/or rear wheels under braking

With that said, combined with my experience with Koni Yellows on third gens, I personally would recommend you put the rear rebound setting on click 1 from the starting point of 0.
---------yet another jackass post from Dean- go figure.

 

Thanks for the reply, that makes sense, very helpful. I wasn't 100% sure on the method of adjustment, the directions were kinda sketchy. I'll go with the recommended "1" click away from 0. Did you copy that from Dean? or ..... I know the guy is very helpful, so either way Thanks!

 

That is Dean.
I'm running my KONIs on 1 in the rear and I like it.

 

He "changes" screen names all the time, its hard to keep up. Yea, I think I'm going to go with 1 and see how I like it. Thanks.

 

I just found out a day before I made my post.
I forgot to congratulate you on the KONIs.

 

Yep, Its hard for me to keep up also. I forget some times when its been a few days. Wish they would give me back either Vsixtoy or just plain Dean. Probably best I just avoid the subject. Thanks for the support though.

 

Ok, I autocross my car and plan on buying koni yellows. What settings would be best for that? Still 1 in the rear? What about the front?

 

Depends on the springs and sway bars. Just start with what was mentioned here and go on feel from there. I run mine on about 30% stiff...can't remember how many sweeps that is.

 

When I redail my car for road course or autocross fun I run the rears on 2 and the fronts maxed.. My car is different though being a V6. You guys may have to still run the rears on 1 so you do not get rear inside wheel lift on turn in since the nose of your cars are heavier with roll weight. It depends on your bar setups also. I can even run a much larger rear bar than you guys with a 34 mm solid front bar and a 25mm solid rear bar..

I would recommend if you have 36mm/24mm bars then go max rebound on frot and #1 on the rear (0-3 range). Fine tune from there. If the car is not rotating intot he turn then up the rear setting one click at a time. If it turns fine but is notoriously loose coming off the corners then turn down the fronts so you can get weight tranfer to the rears.

 

If you're going to get yellow Konis, get the 4th gen rears. They're adjustable from the top/inside of the car so you don't have to undo the shocks to adjust them.

If your car is stock, run the rears full soft and fronts 3/4 stiff. That's what I run.

 

What do you mean "top/inside"? Reach into the top of the wheel well, or go behind back seat take off plastic and reach through solid metal to adjust?

Any other differences between third gen rears and fourth gen rears? Why not get a complete set for a 4th gen shocks/struts and put them on mine. Are the 4th gens more expensive? If so, how much more? Am I accurate in thinking the full set of Koni yellows will cost $650-700? Do the yellows work with a lowered car (just in case I do this in the future)?

 

You adjust them inside the car at the back seat where they mount to. Much easier to lift the carpet up and adjust than jacking the car up, take the shock loose, adjust and rebolt the shock.

4th gen fronts are different from 3rd gen so they won't work.

Go to http://www.stranoparts.com/ ask for Sam. He know's these cars.

 

I like my carpet and dont want to trash it just for a little better cornering abillity... how hard is it to get at the adjuster by removing the carpet?

 

All you do is lift the corner up. You don't cut the carpet or do anything to the carpet. Real simple. 10 minutes on both sides can be adjusted and the carpet looks okay.

 

Adjusting them is easier, but the thirdgen rears are better. Even most 4th gens run 3rd gen rears.

The yellows are about the best you can buy for a lowered car without spending a crap-ton. You are looking at about $750 for all 4 shipped.

 

why are they better? is the valving that much different? not trying to be snooty, i want to know, i was going to get 4th gens because im lazy but crawling under the car and unbolting isnt that big of deal in the name of performance

 

You can also get the T-bird rears which are softer than 3rd gens and also adjust from the top. This was the top ticket in autocross. Again check with Sam, he'll be able to give you all the info you need.

 

how does unsprung weight effect valving and spring rate choice? ive got a 9" in my car, so a good amount of extra weight under there

 

The 3rd gens are mono-tubes. The 4th gens are twin tubes. Mono-tubes react faster... I think that's the difference.

Not sure about the unsprung rate. Someone else will have to field that question.

 

Spring and shock rate choices really have no affect on unsprung weight %. The only thing unsprung weight hapers is ride quality. Springs hold up the sprung weight, Shock, even thought they control the unsprung weight with compression on uptravel, and rebound on down travel, the shocks are also controlling the sprung weight with compression on down travel and rebound on up travel. Its a trade off. What you increase in compression to control the extra entertia weight of a heavier wheel or axle in compression travel will just more unsettle the chassis.

THe only thing you can do about unspung weight is reduce it. The more you reduce it, the better the ride quality and the better the handling. It relates to polar movement of parts. The lighter they are, the less unsettling the chassis will be when the enertia of the wheels force up into the wheel wells. Shock vavling is shock valving, unsprung weight has no effect individually on what vavling choices you make.