when i put my 12 bolt in i drove without the rear sway bar for a week or so and the car tried to hook hard on my street tires. never put my slicks on. is it better to run with or without it at the track?

 

You should run with the rear sway bar. The car can get lots of body roll without a rear sway bar. This will cause the car to pull and to unload one tire a little. Race-only cars will typically have a very heavy rear sway bar.

Some people like to ditch the front sway bar to help prevent any resistance to the front end rising. This helps the car react more consistently and to smoothly unload the front suspension as weight transfers to the rear suspension. Personally, I would keep both for any street driven car and work on keeping the suspension as bind-free as possible.

 

I ran for years without a rear sway bar when I was using ladder bars.

Last winter when I switched to a 4-link, I noticed a big change in the way the car was launching. No matter how much preload I was putting on the RH upper bar, the car would not launch straight. Every time I launched, the car would pull and roll to the right and I would fight to get it straight again.

I invested in a rear anti-roll bar and now I wonder how I managed without it. The car now launches dead straight with no body roll or pulling to either side.

The factory rear sway bar isn't the best thing to use but it's better than not using one at all.

 

If you are running stock-style suspension, I say keep it and get a big one. What I've seen about everywhere.

 

i got the wolfe anti roll bar in my car, the best thing i have ever did

 

i run the stock sway bar in the back with 2 different length endlinks and i'm happy with it

 

What does the different length endlinks do for you?

 

You can preload the suspension a bit by twisting the bar slightly. Say you have the right rear break traction all the time, add a slightly longer endlink to that side and add some weight to the tire.

 

preload on the passenger tire.. when you launch(looking at the car from the back) the axle will rotate counter clockwise, forcing the drivers tire into the ground and lifting the passenger tire.. by preloading the passenger tire with more initial weight, the rotation from launch wont throw off the weight distribution between the tires and give better more even traction




EDIT: keep the sway bar.. throw on some poly bushings too.. i use coil spring spacers as my preload device.. you may hear of airbags too..

 

so which endlink do you make longer than the other? left or right

 

drivers side.

 

So on a factory stock chassis you may need to lengthen the drivers side endlink to make the car go straight?

 

not necessarily.. some cars go as straight as an arrow from the factory.. some dont..

 

+1 - I simply shortened my driver's link about 1/2".

you will want the longer link on the passenger's side. You want to increase the load/resistance on the passenger's side.

The WS6 rear bar is the toughest factory bar, there are a few aftermarket bolt-in drag only bars that are even heavier. - If you have any fab skills or a decent shop close by an anti-roll is a nice way to go, and tune-able.

 

you want a sway bar.
check out the white car.
its in need of a anti roll bar. its hell on the track.

http://media.putfile.com/EC-1-27-08

 

So that white does not have one at all? If that is what is going to happen I will leave mine alone.

 

nothing at the moment. he put the 9" in and it drove fine so he didnt want to waste the money on the relocation brackets for the car.

mine never got ugly like that without a bar, but it does 60ft better with one.