I have an 84 z/28. I put a 383 stroker small block in it with aluminum heads, intake, and waterpump. Now the nose of my car is about 1 1/2 to 2 inch too tall. Somebody told me to cut the front springs, but I don't know how much length to remove. Any suggestions?

 

cutting the springs is the wrong way to go about this.

Lowering springs are what you use to lower the car, cutting springs changes the spring rates and the results will not be as desired

but first, move the car around and make sure the existing springs/suspension is settled, they may have moved when you had the weight out of the car. There is no way, IMHO, that the swap raised the front 1.5 to 2" just on weight reduction, not possible

 

I agree, were talking MAYBE 100lbs MAX (Thats a LONG shot) even if you have a fiberglass hood... Its unlikely you could have removed enough weight to lift the car that much.
But, for the sake of possibly being wrong, do you have a one piece fiberglass front end, hood, aluminum block and heads?
If you answered yes to all these questions, you may need lowering springs.
If you answered no to any of these questions get some anyway.

 

As much as the haters are against cutting your springs...I've been there, done that, and never regreted it not even in Autocross. Use a good, thin grinding wheel, or preferrably a sawzall. No more than 3/4 coil, or you'll drop TOO much.

If you use a wheel, I suggest setting the spring in a bucket of water, to help dissapate heat, with only a couple of coils sticking out to cut it.

Excess heat kills springs & people cutting them with torches is what gives cut springs a bad rep.

 

Cut the springs and you kill your ride. Train tracks will not be your friends.

 

True- sort of. I cut mine on an EL Camino. 1 turn is a lot. Probably more than 2" drop. And It bottomed out A LOT. But it actually rode just fine. It's really a hit and miss thing. Cut 3/4 turn on a 67 Mustang and it was just fine. On a 3rd gen I don't know. If you try it and it doesn't work you can always put the drop springs in and let us know how much it sucked to cut them.

I also agree with others who stated that the weight you took off via the aluminum heads shouldn't have caused the change you describe. Check everything first before you change (by cutting or replacing) your springs.

 

I can't find the article I read, but the problem with cutting springs, is that they are designed to be the length they are, and the "springiness" for lack of a better term, is created with that length in mind. Now it is possible to get lucky and cut them without damaging the balance there. But chances are very good your going to mess that up. Chances are the spring, at a shortened length, is not going to be anywhere near as stiff at is was before. Lowered springs are wound up tighter so that you get a similar ride with less spring travel, thus in shorter stiffer springs.

Is it possible to cut them and get away with it? Sure. Will you likely get away with it, especially if you've never cut springs before? Probably not.

I see lots of cars bouncing around here where kids wanted to get the lowered look without paying any money, so they hacked off part of the spring, and now they bounce around bottoming out, acting like they are cool as their teeth get knocked out of their heads.

Your car, your chances, but I'd just buy different springs.

 

Thats wrong. The spring rate when you cut a piece off actually goes UP not down. There is no black magic to cutting them or losing "springiness" either, thats just wrong too.

 

+1

Cutting springs is fine as long as you don't get them too hot in the process. I have even cut brand new ones before to get the ride height where I wanted it. Most lowering springs are high priced snake oil. Before you cut them drive the car a bit first to make sure everything is settled-if it's still too high cut a half coil off and then drive it some more. Just be careful not to take too much off at once.

Every time this subject comes up most people will have a reason not to. If you try it and it all goes to hell all you are out is your time. If you try it and it works then you saved yourself $200. If you buy a set of brand name lowering springs and don't buy a set of really good shocks and struts it will be slamming off of the bump stops all the time any way. And BTW-cutting them makes them stiffer. Might as well try the cheap and easy way first.

 

Pretty common practice I'd recommend a 1/2 a coil.

 

If you buy springs from The Guldstrand co. (ever hear of guldstrand GTA )they state that you must cut there new springs to get the proper height. I would also start at 1/2 coil. after making sure the springs are seated properly.

 

Yeah i heard of it and him- I actually ride in that car years back when he finished it. (I used to drive for him- see pic attached- thats a recent pic of **** and I).

Anyways, Chris (madmax) already weeded out the misinfo and bad facts here- so thats done.

ok- cutting springs.

1/2 coil is not the same on all springs.

Suspension FACT- Our springs in the 3rd gen pockets sit at 42% leverage.
So... Measure the distance you want to drop (1 1/2") and mutiply that by 42% and you have .63" to cut of the "COMPRESSED HEIGHT COIL"- NOT the free height coil when it is removes. Get under there with the spring loaded and measure how much of a coil on your perticular spring makes up .63" in height so then when you remove it and it grows, you then know how muych to cut.....Are we clear...I hope.
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It took 11 post to get your answer, but you got it. (I forgot to add the pic of Guldstrand and I)(I dunno, thse file is saying invalid on the pic....Nevermind)

 

Just as a side note, shouldn't the spring be "indexed" when he puts it back in? Doesn't that affect the height? To clarify, I've read that indexing is simply placing the end of the bottom coil between the two little holes in the cup at the bottom. Would this make a difference? I'd hate to see the guy cut them, then not set them right, and end up with too much or too little difference.

 

The bottom of the spring is trimmed (cut, hacked, sawed, chewed off.... whatever) and then placed back into the A-arm index no matter what the rotation orientation of the top is. The top is flat.

 

BLP - if you do a search you will find alot of people on this board cut their springs. Some more than others, but still cut their springs.
I was in the same boat as you. Lightened up the front end and the front end went up giving the car a reversed-rake look.
I trimmed my springs, but they were not the stock replacement springs. Since you have an 84 are they the stock springs? Maybe they are the 5608 (moog replacement). This should be taken into consideration because they are soft versus the 5662 which is an IROC replacement spring.
I agree with Titan too, make sure they are indexed correctly now. I did some springs and they were never indexed properly giving a higher look because the A-arm has this indentation for the spring to sit in.
Now back to cutting. I cut 1/2 coil off my springs. I chose the 5660 and it did drop it 1 - 1 1/2. I drive the car and it rides just like stock.
So if they have been in the car since 1984, perhaps look into the 5662 or 5660 or if you really want a stiff nice ride, 5664. Then just trim these springs 1/2 coil and you'll get the look you are looking for.
Again, every car is different and this worked for me so this will get you within the ballpark.
Have fun!