ok guys im getting read in the next few weeks to order the tubular k member.
the ones ive seen so far are aje, spohn and bmr. they all look about the same. and they all have lower control arms.
in your opion which one is the best. i know spohn does have the rod end option wich is something i want.
i want to lower my car 1.5" up front and 1" in the rear.

i am happy with my AJE racing setup. No reason for me to buy the a-arms though, since there is no weight savings. I just bought the kmember

the aje would be a good one. its in stock at jegs. and i get a discount.

Unless someone has spent the money to buy the same product multiple times from different vendors, it's going to be hard to get a comparison as to which is best. Once you decide which vendor to support, you're going to say that one is the best.

People have had good and bad luck with all the vendors. Spohn has been doing it for a long time and is a TGO supporter.

There isn't a huge weight saving with the k-member also. The factory one just looks really heavy. The advantage of the tubular k-member is the smaller package and cleaner look.

I put a Profab k-member and a-arms on my race car mainly for clearance issues. I ran for many years with the factory setup.

im thinking mostly about the room for a bigger oil pan. and trying to fit 5" exh in a tunnel under the car.

My BBC fit with a stock k-member but the 2-1/4" primary tubes were too tight a fit so I switched to a tubular k-member and still had to modify the primaries.

Why do you need a 5" exhaust? Is that turbo going to be making 1200+ hp?

I've been to spohn's shop a few times. Good guy and nice clean shop. He's a great guy to work with. That place is a factory! However, he is moving, or is in the process of moving shops,.....so you might want to call to get the story.

Getting faster eh Steve?

I have all of spohns crap ( I mean that in a good way) and cant complain with fitment or clearancing, cant speak for a friend of mine, his k member didnt align with his bolt holes. dont know if it was the car or the k-member however.

My sponsor still thinks I have potential of an 8 second car if I can get the 60' times down some more. I should be in the low 1.3 range based on how much power I have.

the turbo has made 1488 hp on the same 357 motor. so yea 1200 is possible.
im tunning for 1000 whp. so motor should high 1100s low 1200s. im planning on making my own 2x3" frame to connect the subframes then making a tunnel on the passenger side just high enought to squeze in the 5" exh and maybe a muffler since im street driving it.

When I was at Spohn's the other week, I overheard him talking on the phone with a guy that was having trouble with fitment. Don't remember exactly what it was, but all the parts are made in a jig, and it doesnt change.

Steve-whats your plan of attack?

Take a look at Racecraft Inc. http://www.racecraft.com/products.php?cat=20

Mark

Replacing the bad head gasket and replacing the broken valve spring with a complete set of triple springs may help. Best run was with a problem engine.

Sounds like definitely .043 worth!