So I need to replace some parts under my 91RS 305 TBI T-Top daily driver.
It's stock except for full exhaust and dropped with sportline springs.
Heres what I am planing to get-
3 point STB, wonder bar, panhard bar (Edelbrock)
subframe connectors (Edelbrock ??)
shocks/struts (tokicos.)

Now some guys are saying get adjustable pieces, with some of the parts, there is a price difference (in most cases higher).

My question: is there much point in getting the adjustable stuff over non adjustable for a daily driver?
Keep in mind trying to keep cost low, how would you do it?

SID.

 

its a good idea to get a adjustable panhard bar, so you can center the rear in the car after you lower it. Thats the only piece that can be adjustable in the list you have. The other piece that should be adjustable is the torque arm if you decide to get one. I didnt know edelbrock made SFC for a 3rd gen? my opinion, i would pass on anything made by edelbrock except intake manifolds and waterpumps. suspension parts, look at UMI, Spohn, or BMR.

 

Actually, I really like my Edelebrock 3-pt STB. Who else makes a 3-pt STB besides Edelbrock?

As for the BMR STB, I'm not very keen on that flat bar in the middle. There's just no way a flat bar can be as strong/stiff as a rectangular or round piece.

BTW, I don't see a Wnderbar listed by the OP. I'd suggest getting one.

 

i have a 3pt edelbrock STB as well, it fit like sheet. I didnt like the pivot mounts either. I chopped it up and made rigid end mounts for it, now its good.

 

The Edelbrock STB for TBI car is awesome!!! 3 point as well as a nice beefy piece. FYI, unless you have solid type strut mounts (ie. J&M or Spohn), don't bother with an STB, (unless you just want it for the look of it). The stock type strut mounts are rubber and will allow to much play for the STB to be effective.

I would think with sportlines without an adjustable panhard is screwing up the center thrust angle of your alignment. I would at least get an "on car" adjustable one, it's worth it over the plain adjustable unit because it's much easier to adjust it properly while it's on the car.

Since you have sportlines, you may want to consider LCA relocation brackets to correct the geometry of the LCAs.

It is really worth the money to get the right pieces. I saved money by buying everything from UMI during group purchases. I split all the parts into 2 different GPs, I did the rear 1st, then the front). I also traded parts I had for the STB and SFCs, from other members on here (did a couple of junk yard runs to get the parts).

I would buy the best parts you can and "save up" the parts until you have everything to do it once. It sux replacing one part at time, just take off all the old and install all the new at the same time.

 

did not know this ,but will get anyway and deal with mounts later.

whats the difference? on-car/plain.
was going to get this part installed as i have no idea how adjust it to correct spot.

this is the one I was looking at
http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=135921

LCA's brackets will be coming later on.

 

It looks like that bar is an on car adjustable. So your good, but you might want to call Edelbrock just to make sure.

With an on car adjustable panhard bar (sometimes called double adjustable), you dont have to unbolt it from the car to adjust it. It can be adjusted while it is still installed on the car. The "plain" type adjustable panhard bars (sometimes called single adjustable) must be unbolted from usually the axle side, adjusted, then re-installed. Only thing is, once it's adjusted, you really don't have to adjust it again unless you change the ride height. But it is really a lot easier to adjust it while it's on the car.

FWIW: I didn't have any issues with the fitment of my Edelbrock STB, and I had it installed quite some time before I had the solid strut mounts.

 

I disagree. I had a 3pt. BMR brace and the difference in sqeaks and rattles was undeniable.

With the sportlines, I'd highly suggest an adjustable torque arm. Since you DAILY DRIVE this car, I would get one that mounts to the transmission like the factory piece. I have the Spohn adjustable TA that mounts to the trans crossmember, and while it performs perfectly, the additional road noise is considerable, and in my case, I'm actually going back to a trans mounted TA.

....as mentioned, I'd also get a set of Lower control arm relocation brackets. This is actually more important than the new LCAs themselves. If you DO get the LCAs as well, no need for these to be adjustable.

 

thanks for the input guys.
Will pick up some relocation brackets too, didn't think of using them with stock LCA's

Have one last Q about the adj panhard.
How do you adjust it for your car? Do i have to make some measurements? or do I just pull of the stock one and car shifts to its happy spot and I adjust panhard to fit?
Or just get it installed from some one who knows what they are doing? (my original plan.)

 

Install it, then take it to get an alignment. Or at least ask them to adjust the rear so the center thrust angle is 0*.

 

ok. thanks for all the help.
will get alignment done after i get the shocks/struts, stb, and panhard put in.
Have to wait for the wonderbar, sfc's and LCA relocation brackets.Will have to order them.
or would it be better to install every thing and then get alignment?

 

SFCs should be the aboslutely 1st thing you do. Shocks and struts, then the rest of the stuff. Get an alignment ASAP after working on any part of the suspension. So do it all at once so you only have to get it aligned once.

 

...and as Kris has stated basically- It is absolutely useless to get a STB if you have factory original strut mounts.Get new strut mounts first, preferably solid bushing types like Spohn and Hotparts sell.A STB's entire job is to keep the strut towers from flexing towards eachother in hard cornering....WHY?....To help maintain the alignment camber and caster and keep the contact patch on the ground in hard braking and cornering loads. If you just have the factory rubber bushings in there?, then all the STB's in the world are doing absolutely NOTHING when the rubber bushing deflection is stil allowing the upper suspension mount points to close in on eachother and or head towards the front bumper (slamming back as the brakes are released)I preach that this is the best single upgrade to be done for handling imputs of a 3rd gen. Your front shocks are not dampering correctly if the factory original bushings are worn at all...things are really bafd if those strut mounts are original 20 year old units--get them out of there.
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Aftermarket parts shound not be sold "non-adjustable"Adjustments will help correct alignment, chassis fatigue, accidents, ride height alterations, suspension setup alterations to geometry......basically, every adjustment you can get is a useful tool in keeping the car in proper articulation geometry as things are changed, added, fatigued, or altered in any way.

 

ok, so I should just gather all the parts and do it all at the same time.makes sense no need to do things twice if you don't have to.

I was going to replace the old rubber bushing with new stock type, may still have to due to budget.If it comes to that new solid type strut mounts will be the very next thing to do.