The directions from UMI say if you have a drive on ramp, you dont have to jack your car up on the rear subframe. My rear axle is up on jack stands and the front on ramps. IS IT SAFE to unbolt the LCA, put the sfc on, and bolt it up, one side at a time of course while the axle is under load? I dont want the axle to slip out and KILL me .

 

Anyone? I want to get my sfcs in before i take my rear end out. Im keeping my aluminum drum rear, but polishing the drum face and painting the rest red!

 

As long as you do it one side at a time.
That's how I did it when I replaced my LCA's, worked fine for me.
When you un-bolt one LCA, the other, and the torque arm, are still holding the rear end in place.

 

Hello,
Put the jack under the rear to keep pressure on the rear! You might have to adjust the jack up or down to allow that hardware to be easier to get out. If you have any other questions feel free to ask I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks Again,
Brad

 

Thanks for the replies guys! So heres what your saying. Drive the front up on ramps, jack the rear end up and support the rear end with jackstands, unbolt ONE side LCA, then bolt on the sfc, then do the other side. Correct and Safe?

 

No. Put the jackstands on the frame on the rear. Watch the fuel lines before you crush them. Then use the jack to put tension on the rear.

Unbolt one LCA at a time. I did the Panhard last.

This is how I supported the car. This allowed me to use the jack to move the rear up and down.

 

Ok i actually just got in from doing this. With the rear on jackstands, the LCA bolt came right out, and the rear didn't move a bit!

So the drivers side is very easy, i mocked up and drew where i need to grind the undercoating off. BUT the pass side looks very tight, although managable. I slid the sfc into postion, and i got enough room for the extra brace by the cat, but how am i supposed to weld in such a small area on the pass. side?

 

You could probably unbolt the exhaust, and allow it to drop a little.
That might give you enough room.