I'm looking to change out my k-member and control arms to switch to coilovers, and I was wondering if it can be done without removing the engine. I've got a cherry picker, so I can hang the engine from that while the k-member is out, but is there anything else that would need to come off? Steering parts? I think there's a brake line that runs along the k-member, but I can't think of anything else.

 

it can definately be done! hung the motor from a cherry picker, and stripped the entire front suspension in preparation to sandblast it. I chose to remove the motor mount plates from the k-member instead of just removing the through-bolt. in hindsight, remove the through-bolt and save yourself some cursing. Dont forget to remove the brake hard lines, they are secured on the top of the k-member.

-Zander

{edit}

Oops, i see you mentioned the brake line. aside from that, you'll have to remove the sway bar, the control arms, k member braces, and finally the k-member. The steering system doesnt have to be disassembled, just pushed out of the way when removing/installing the k-member

 

yeah i actua;ly swapped my k-member out in the parking lot of my moms house when i lived with her i used just a bottle jack it can be done just watch out for the spring lol

 

This is what Ill be using... I hate using jacks to hold up a motor in a car thats already suppoted by jack stands. haha. With this thing, you have all the room in the world under the car, the motor wont shift, and you dont have to remove your hood to use an engine hoist... I know some of you may have been able to use the hoist with the hood on, but because of my LS1's plastic intake and the fuel rails being on top, I need the chain to be spread out more.



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96524

Ive seen this used on a mustang, and it looks to work very well.

J.

EDIT: Found a couple pics of it in use...

 

Thats a pretty cool rig!

 

I thought so. If you use it twice, its more than paid for itself in convienence.

That stang motor is most likely heavier than my LS1 too...so it should hold. Says its good to 1000lbs. We'll see. You all will see it in action when I pull my k-member in a couple weeks.

Now...if there was only a way to not have to take the springs out to get the k-member out. That would save me a TON of time...maybe Ill have to figure something out for that.

J.

 

I bought that rig from Harbor freight already, just waiting for my complete k-member, a-arms, sway bar, and steering kit to come in. I'll post picture through out the job.

Eric

 

Can you not just drop down the k-member with springs and a-arms still attached? That's what I had planned to do - unbolt the struts from the balljoints, swaybar end links, then take out the k-member with the springs and arms still on it.

 

No way. If you unbolt the struts without the a-arm being supported, you'll have a mess on your hands.

You have to remove the springs after you unbolt the strut. Definatly do some looking around on the front suspension board before you dig into that.

I have some ideas on how to keep the a-arms at ride height once weight is off the front tires. But its hard for me to trust the materials under that kind of stress. There is A LOT of energy potential in those springs when they are compressed.

Ill probably just buck up take it all apart. Just sucks to do 3 hours of work just to do a 30 minute job...then another 3 hours of work to put it back together.

J.

 

Yeah, I was thinking of using a floor jack under the a-arm to keep it from swinging down once the strut is loose. It would probably be better to leave the strut attached to the a-arm, and unbolt it from the strut mount first. Then i can just slowly ease it down until the spring tension is gone, or minimized. This is a lot of the reason I'm switching to coilovers, I hate working on the stock style springs.

 

Ya Ward is right J. Just put a floor jack under the control arm and unbolt the shock. then slowly release the pressure til it falls off. Its a great method