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does anyone have any idea on how this works? i just cant picture where to hook it onto. also my car is under a cover for the winter so trying to figuer it out isnt int he picture right now lol.
anyways. if you have used this tool let me know. or if you have any tips on doing caster/ camber adjustments let me know. if al else fails il probably buy camber adjustment bolts.
I have done more alignments on 3rd gens than I can remember.
I have fancy longacre gages, toe plates stings etc. and such.
But this method will work great.
Go to home depot or lowes etc.
get an angle finder, get a piece of strait plywood cut that you can lean against the tire squarly.
Put the angle finder on the plywood and measure camber.
Jack the car up by the cross member to take weight off the tires.
They need to be unloaded but not off the ground.
Loosen the 3 bolts on the strut tower plate and move the adjustment all the way in and all the way back. That is max camber and caster. You will need to hit it with the heal of your hand or a soft hammer to get it moving.
Tighten it down lower car and check camber.
Keep adjusting till you get what you want.
Caster is checked by turning the wheel 20 degrees left and take camber measurement and 20 degrees right and taking measuremtn and measuring the difference.
Toe is the hardest if you want to know more I can go into more detail.
thanks for the info! so in your opinion you like maximum caster?
ive only done my alignment once so i cant remmber what its at. but ive read that about 4-4.5* of caster and about -.5 camber is a good street alignment for these cars. what are your opinions on this?
i also do alignments for a living so i have nice machine to use.
what i was going to do if this tool didnt work out was set the caster to about 4.5* and get the upper shock plates as even as possible and then buy camber adjust bolts and set it to -.05
I use a tool similar to the one you linked too. It is a turnbuckle assembly that has the ends cut and bent to fit (from Lowes/Home Depot). I recommend either making or buying the tool to do a proper alignment. Otherwise the upper strut mount goes where it wants to go, not where you want it to go.
The tool hooks into the top of the strut mount with the other end hooking onto the car. I usually use the hood hinge bracket. Can also use a fender bolt to hook it too. When loosened the strut mount wants to go in toward the center of the car. The turnbuckle prevents that.
For aftermarket strut mounts I put a hose clamp around the mount (loosely) then hook the tool to it.
just adding a couple of notes, SDIF...
when you jack the car up, make an adjustment, then put it back on the ground...you need to roll it back and forth (a foot or so) a time or two to re-settle the suspension.
Also, if using plywood against the tire to check camber, keep in mind that you may have some sidewall bulge at the bottom of the tire that will affect your angle reading.
I agree with what everyone stated with exception to "tow is the hardest"? Just place a straight edge (2x4 on edge) up against the bottom of both wheels (front to back)and measure in front of the wheel and behind the wheel and get the difference and set *** wanted. The only time it could get difficult is if you drag race and are looking to eliminate front tire scrub when launching and the front end rises.
I broke down and bought one of those track side alignment tools (not tool shown, you do not need that) that measure camber, caster and toe very easily and fast.
I agree with what everyone stated with exception to "tow is the hardest"? Just place a straight edge (2x4 on edge) up against the bottom of both wheels (front to back)and measure in front of the wheel and behind the wheel and get the difference and set *** wanted. The only time it could get difficult is if you drag race and are looking to eliminate front tire scrub when launching and the front end rises.
I broke down and bought one of those track side alignment tools (not tool shown, you do not need that) that measure camber, caster and toe very easily and fast.
I use a tool similar to the one you linked too. It is a turnbuckle assembly that has the ends cut and bent to fit (from Lowes/Home Depot). I recommend either making or buying the tool to do a proper alignment. Otherwise the upper strut mount goes where it wants to go, not where you want it to go.
The tool hooks into the top of the strut mount with the other end hooking onto the car. I usually use the hood hinge bracket. Can also use a fender bolt to hook it too. When loosened the strut mount wants to go in toward the center of the car. The turnbuckle prevents that.
For aftermarket strut mounts I put a hose clamp around the mount (loosely) then hook the tool to it.
RBob.
Here are the Kent-Moore versions of the tool that attach to the fender bolt.
Old post I know but relevant to the post I just made,
RBob can you share any more details on the Home Depot/Lowes bought adjuster tool?
Here is a pic of said tools. Having aftermarket strut mounts I use the hose clamps around them to hook the turnbuckle to. They are left loose and the paper wrapped around the clamps helps prevent scratching the mounts.
Here is a pic of said tools. Having aftermarket strut mounts I use the hose clamps around them to hook the turnbuckle to. They are left loose and the paper wrapped around the clamps helps prevent scratching the mounts.
RBob.
I bought the parts to give your method a try and it seems to work well for adjusting camber with the Founders caster camber plates, caster not so much. I made the mistake buying the aluminum version which now has stripped thread, gonna need to find the steel versions locally this week end.