They're brand new screws so it's not that they're stuck, but it seems to me that a special tool is needed to loosen them...am I correct?

If I do need one, is there something else kinda common I could also use to save me a trip and some cash?

Thanks guys.

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-'82 Z28 (350, carb'd, 4.10's, Super Comps, plenty of goodies)
-'91 S10 (nice daily driver)

AIM me at: Unitedhope
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If you're talking about the brake fluid bleeder screws in your wheel cylinders, no you don't need any special tool. Use the correct size hex wrench that fits. Use a box end style wrench. Special bleeder wrenchs only have more offset to clear the brake backing plates. Here's a tip, especially since your bleeders are new. Remove them & apply some anti-sieze paste on the threads. This will prevent them from locking solid from rust after a few Chicago winters. Otherwise, good luck in opening them without breaking them off.

 

10 mm box end wrench. Use the box end not the open end or you'll round the flats. Slip the 10 mm on first then a vacuum hose over the end of the bleed screw. If you have a vacuum brake bleeder connect it to that. Otherwise stick the end of the tube in a jar of brake fluid and bleed away. When no more bubbles your done. Good luck, Lon.

 

the bleed screw is the screw above the brake line fitting correct?? A 10mm box wrench won't work on that because it's round and the center is a D shape so a hex key won't work either...am I in the twilight zone??

 

Yep your in the TZ. The only thing I can find that looks like what you describe is the anchor pin for a drum brake. The bleed screw has a 10 mm hex fitting with what appears to be a nipple with a small hole in the center. opening it up slightly will cause the brake fluid to weep out along with any trapped air. Are ya with me now?

 

I HAVE to be looking at something else, this just does not make sense...Where exactly is the bleed screw? Is it not right above the brake line fitting?

 

You're talking about rear drum brakes? correct? If not, what are we talking about? You say they are new wheel cylinders..that you installed? Provide a little background on whaat's going on, maybe we can help.
Regards, FJK

 

yes, I'm talking about the rear drums...I just got the rearend and there's a fitting above the brake line fitting and it is circular with a D shaped hole in it...MeanYellowZ told me that was the bleed screw, but everyone is saying that a 10mm box wrench should work and it doesn't even come close

 

Your right it is just above the brake fitting. I see the problem now. There is a shroud surrounding it. A 10 mm won't work, sorry for that bad advice. I still had my disc brake rear on my brain. It is smaller than 10 mm. I can only see using a 1/4" drive socket, but I can't locate the right one yet. LArger than 9/32, but smaller than 11/32. Good luck, Lon

 

that's the thing though lon, it's circular, how would a wrench fit on it?...it seems like the only thing that would turn it is a D shaped tool that I can stick in the hole to turn it??

 

Is the bleeder on the other side the same way? We're taking about something that looks like a grease fitting & is 1/4 -3/8" diameter..correct? If all this is new, consider pulling them off & taking them back. Are these no-name brand wheel cylinders?
FJK

 

actually, that's almost exactly what they look like...a grease fitting....I have no idea what brand they are, like I said I just bought the rearend and want to bleed the stupid brakes!

 

Well, if the look brand new like you said in the original post & you think they will unscrew easily, clamp on to them with some small vise-grip pliers, break them loose, remove them, & take them to the auto parts store. Match up the thread size & length & buy a couple of replacement bleeder screws with a hex on them. I've seen press in grease fittings without hexes. Maybe the previous owner put something like that in instead of bleeder screws. Who knows?
FJK

 

so, they could possibly just pull out? I tried getting some full size vice grips on there, but that's not working out...so I guess I'll have to buy a small one to try that

 

OK, I've got your answer now. I had to swap a drum rear end back into my RS temporarily and had to bled the drums. There may be a rubber boot on the bleed screw. Remove it with a small screwdriver. Open the bleed screw with a 8 mm 1/4" drive socket. Then bleed the brakes. Got it? No vise grips, no wrench, no special tool. Good luck, Lon.

 

lonsal
I sure hope what you described is "it". He should follow your advice.
FJK

 

You might consider getting a set of those Russel valved bleeder screws. I think they were 8 bucks..? I have them on my front brakes, and when I swap in my rear end, I'll have them on the back as well. They do work nicely.