crazeinc

just curious...

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-'82 Z28
-355 carb'd, super comps, 4.10, 3" duals

AIM me at: Unitedhope
ICQ me at: 77979548

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I would assume just a new master cylinder. You would have to remove the booster and put in a different master. I wouldimagine you would just need one with a shorter push rod. My cousins Chevelle has manual 4 wheel drum brakes. It is a lot more dificult to stop than my car even with the crappy pads I have on it now. Why would you want to do this?

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy. Red Green

crazeinc

Cleaner engine bay, less weight...stupid stuff like that...same reason I put a manual steering box in.

AlkyIROC

I'll be working on converting my race car to manual brakes this winter (after I build a new engine). From what I've see on a superstock car it shouldn't be too hard. Pick up an aluminum master cylinder from a dodge vehicle. I found a nice one with a large reservoir on an 85 van. When you remove the booster, you'll need to buy or fabricate an adaptor plate so you can mount the new master cylinder to the firewall. Fabricate a longer pushrod. Although it can be used in the same hole as the factory pushrod, you can get better leverage force by drilling a hole 1" higher on the brake pedel. On the master cylinder the brake lines are on the opposite side so some bending or refabricating will need to be done. Although the brake lines should screw right in, adaptors may be needed depending on what the treads are on the lines and master.

If I do get around to doing it, it won't be until late spring. It's low on my priority list right now.

Go to a race and hunt down a stock/superstock third gen and look over the car for ideas on how to do it. I'm sure the owner would be more than happy to answer and questions.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas

Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!

Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

scooter

iTrader: (11)

So crazeinc you are just about straight line performance then? To each his own. Good luck with that then.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy

TomP

Less weight? Uh, the stock master cylinder weighs 6 pounds if it's got a steel body (early 82-84 models), and 4 pounds if it's the aluminum one. The prop valve must weigh under a pound.

It's not that much.. kinda like guys pulling the padding off their carpet. I swapped my carpet early in the year for a new set. Since I was curious, I tore the old padding off my old carpet while it was on my back lawn. I picked it all up- and it was light as hell. It weighed maybe 3-5 pounds?? Might as well just skip lunch before you hit the racetrack

-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

AlkyIROC

It's not just the master cylinder but the booster also that's heavy and bulky. That could be around 20 pounds. They're not light.

merf23

I am building a VW Scirocco stock car (circle track) and i tossed the booster and the crazy a$$ diagonal braking system. I used a master cyl from an 88 F**D Bronco/ranger with manual brakes. It is an aluminum one with the ports on the left. I bought it at NAPA for $65 brand new. The push rod is easily removable for modifications.