i have a 86 camaro.it had a v-6.i am putting in a v-8,so i had to change motor mounts,springs...rear axle,tank,etc...
i was fine with the rear stuff....got to the front,popped out the v-6 springs.....i was told by one of my co-workers(were all ase techs)that you can halfway wedge the spring in there,than give it a spack with a hammer and it will go into its seat.after spending 3+1/2 hours trying this,i went nuts.i bought a spring compressor,and after cutting off 5"from the pressure screw,AND making a spacer for the other end,i got one side in now(just spent two hours there).has anyone else had this much trouble with the damn springs?if i ever need to have this done again ill pay somebody else....i swear this is harder than anything else on these cars
mike

------------------
86 camaro:was a v6 car,now its going to be a v-8 5.7l!!
350:cylinders bored .040 over.a little over 9:1 compression(getting a blower some day when im rich lol)line bored.deck is milled a little(was pitted)
trw forged pistons with summit stage 2 polished rods with arp bolts.
194? intake valves(not 2.02( ),pocket ported,gasket matched,and polished ports,old vette intake with new zinc 650 holley

ase certified for a few years,learned alot though

working on freakin NEONS ,cirruses,tauruses,cobras(well` at least they look nice lol)and intrepids all day makes me drink too much
good job security though

im always on the lookout for cheapv-8 t-5,s
and t-56 setups.they must be cheap.i dont care of they need rebuild,as long as they arent totally blown

 

Mike, I could not agree more! I put stock 90 IROC springs in my 84. After various engine and lightening mods my front end is so light that it looks too tall. Those damn front springs were such a ***** that I said funk that, never again.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Recently Ported Heads, Installed Larger Race-Flo Valves and RPM Air Gap Intake (No new times)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

The Bowtie
ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

good i dont feel so bad now heh.i really hate doing any suspension work anyways....give me a burnt wiwing harness anyday lol

------------------
86 camaro:was a v6 car,now its going to be a v-8 5.7l!!
350:cylinders bored .040 over.a little over 9:1 compression(getting a blower some day when im rich lol)line bored.deck is milled a little(was pitted)
trw forged pistons with summit stage 2 polished rods with arp bolts.
194? intake valves(not 2.02( ),pocket ported,gasket matched,and polished ports,torker2 intake with new zinc 650 holley
matched comp cam...runs great on pump gas!!

ase certified for a few years,learned alot though

working on freakin NEONS ,cirruses,tauruses,cobras(well` at least they look nice lol)and intrepids all day makes me drink too much
good job security though

im always on the lookout for cheapv-8 t-5,s
and t-56 setups.they must be cheap.i dont care of they need rebuild,as long as they arent totally blown
also looking for a pair of iroc taillights,and a 145 speedo(cable driven)

 

Aftermarket springs are easier to deal with, they're lower so they slip in easier.
There is also a special Spring Compressor for these cars, the 'average' ones don't work right(as I'm sure you've noticed).
I've changed the springs in my Firebird 3 times, and in the Z28 4 times. I can now do all four springs, by myself, in under an hour(no compressor needed).
I guess practice does make perfect, or if not, it at least makes you quicker

------------------
Redbird
Bayou Motorsports
87 Firebird-Daily Driver/Autocrosser
84 Z28-Full bore Autocross car
Delta Region SCCA
#00 C Prepared

 

Funny you should post this, I just finished front end rebuild today. New LCA
bushings, tie rods, inner and outer,
center link, ball joints, and sruts, and yes
those spring compressors do not work, to long
I set the LCA on a jack with spring set on LCA and jacked it up into position and as soon as I could I slipped the bolts in, it works but is a PITA

------------------
TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
March Underdrive Pulleys
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.

 

not to mention scary.

I had to do the same thing as far as the tool modification: I cut off two inches and made a two inch spacer for the other end.

 

I agree the front springs are a pain but I figured I would share how I got my (1in lowering) springs from PST in.

With the A-arm hanging I inserted the spring with the isolater taped to the top and slowly raised the jack until there was the slightest amount of pressure on the spring. Now the spring was angled with the top in the grooves and the bottom halfway out of the pocket. With a three and a half foot prybar slipped under the edge of the spring and with a little grunt I was able to pop the spring into the pocket. Then I jacked it up and bolted up the struts. The spring did pop out a few times but there was so little pressure it would just fall to the gound.

It took about two hours, 30 minutes of WTF, 30 minutes to figure out what to do, and an hour of actual install.

Julian

------------------
82 T/A
305 torquer heads,
isky cam, edelbrock intake,edelbrock headers,SLP catback-700r4 all smog+computer in place w/no touble codes.
Hotckis+Koni
Baer brakes front w/rear disc conversion,
245/50zr16GSCsin place. 98,000 miles. Black and simple.

[This message has been edited by Julians82 (edited April 03, 2001).]

 

Sure hope you swapped motor mounts while your springs were out or you're heading for some more suck.

Steve

------------------
Steve's Trans Am Temple

 

oh hell yeah i changed em!!(v-6 diff from v-8)and i wouldve replaced them anyways for all the hassle it is.
so i shouldve gotten special gm spring tool
J-95465937474874894373893939.1 lol

------------------
86 camaro:was a v6 car,now its going to be a v-8 5.7l!!
350:cylinders bored .040 over.a little over 9:1 compression(getting a blower some day when im rich lol)line bored.deck is milled a little(was pitted)
trw forged pistons with summit stage 2 polished rods with arp bolts.
194? intake valves(not 2.02( ),pocket ported,gasket matched,and polished ports,torker2 intake with new zinc 650 holley
matched comp cam...runs great on pump gas!!

ase certified for a few years,learned alot though

working on freakin NEONS ,cirruses,tauruses,cobras(well` at least they look nice lol)and intrepids all day makes me drink too much
good job security though

im always on the lookout for cheapv-8 t-5,s
and t-56 setups.they must be cheap.i dont care of they need rebuild,as long as they arent totally blown
also looking for a pair of iroc taillights,and a 145 speedo(cable driven)

 

Anybody price that tool? how much is it and is it worth the cost (to those of you who've done it). I'll probably be doing 2 cars over the next year or so.

thanks
Clem

------------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, (unfortunately) auto, NO T-tops---FOR SALE---
Looking for a V8, 4 or 5 speed Camaro with NO T-tops (wanna trade?)

 

i just bought the universal tool for $40,and cut 3" off the pressure scrwe,and put a 2"spacer in the other end.that was enough to 1.;et me compress it enough and 2.the pressure screw is now short enough that it dosent hit in the top of the subframe.
anybody know of a cheap fourthgen around?dont care if it needs wiring (flood car)or mechanical work,i just dont want one that has the front bumper cover smashed into the firewall lol

 

I put in Intrax 2" drop first in my GTA and it took me about 6 hours. I had to go buy 6 large nuts to put on the spring compressor so it wouldn't hit the spot where the top of the spring sits. When I put in my eibach pro-kit springs they took about 2 hours.. no spring compressor, just lowered the control arm as far as possible and crammed the springs in their then jacked the arm up. I think if you are dealing with stock springs the easiest way is to unbolt the control arm and put the spring in, then (with a 2x4 or something under the control arm) jack up the arm until you can put the bolts and the strut or endlink on to hold it their.. but i've never tried this myself.

 

89GTA5spd, thats how I did mine, 2x4 and
jack, works but can be dangerous, gives
the job a little suspence, ouch

------------------
TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
March Underdrive Pulleys
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.

 

they are kinda fun to do ehh
i used 2 floor jacks ....very carefully !

 

lol!! i was thinking that next time(hopefully never)i do front springs, i will get drop springs to make it easier...i dont know how theres enough flex with the stock springs to let the front end move.as tight as they are im amazed that the front dosent stay all the way up all the time lol

 

man im gettin kinda scared here guys i just bought some Jamex springs and i hope they arent this much of PITA. has anyone done these springs before? they are supposed to lower it 1.5", that would make them easier to install right?

------------------
Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
New project-89 IROC
Soon- 6 speed, Pro 5.0 shifter and 4.10's
http://users.argolink.net/bvana

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com

 

Im in the same boat as ScreaminDeamin85Z, I have my Jamex springs sitting here ready to install. I *might* do it this weekend if I find a shop open on saturdays that can press in my new control arm bushings.
I hope I can get it done fairly easy. I'll let ya'll know!


Ken

------------------
Bright red 86 Iroc-Z Choo Choo Customs Convertible
A few free mods
ChevyKen's Cars (ALL new!!)

Administrator @ ChevyWorld.net (Now in a BRAND NEW Design)

 

I tried THREE TIMES to get the damn front springs out. First I had the wrong spring compressor, then it was too long, then I made a spacer but even compressed ALL THE WAY there was still too much tension. I said no way, I'm going to pay someone to do it. Haven't gotten around to saving up the $250 yet though :-(.

 

My dad and I built a spring compressor for my '84 but before we tried it I did what Julian did and I was able to swap both fronts before my dad could change clothes and come out to help! He could not believe it, because the last time we tried it the engine was out of the car and that seemed to make it much more difficult. The springs I removed were Z28 (BZX)(very stiff) and I replaced them with a slightly softer spring from a V8 RS. Only tool I used was a long wrecking bar to pry the spring into the spring perch.

------------------
'84Z28/'92 305TPI
'92 complete rear suspension/PBR disc/Posi/3:42
Light weight 34.5mm stabilizer bar in front ($10 from wrecking yard)/
"wonder Bar" ($5 from wrecking yard)
23mm sta. bar in rear
Rear RS Springs (slightly softer than my Z28)
comp cam, flowmaster
TB coolantbypass/shutoff valve to heater core
powersteering cooler lines (liberated from another wrecked car of course)
MAT relocated
Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box
IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's
700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit btw)
home-made strut tower brace (cost $6)

Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself.

Love this engine!

freshly painted OCT. 2000 Teal with two white stripes on the hood and deck lid

LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

[This message has been edited by 84IROC (edited April 04, 2001).]

 

The best way I got my new springs in was to lower the control arm as much as possible and set the spring in there and then place a jack under the spring and control arm... then I got my FAT *** BROTHER to sit on top of my fender and I jacked up the spring & control arm........ Well I did F&@K some **** up but I sold that car and bought a new one. But hey at least I learned what NOT to do next time......

 

Some people have too much money to spend on tools.

 

Well, now I'm having to deal with this crap. Makes me wanna pull my hair out. The engine & tranny are out so there is no weight on the front of the car. I am trying to install '84 Z-28 springs. Can't get 'em compressed enough. Yes, it's too long (12 inch rod). what did you guys use for a spacer ??...

 

Whoa, this is back from the dead...

spacer? try a pipe

 

Thanks, I have access to all kinds of pipe where I work...

 

Fellas, you guys are getting WAY TOO pissed at the springs!! First of all, you really need the right compressor for the job. You don't HAVE to get one, but it makes removal real easy. Here's a shot of the RIGHT one to use, an internal compressor:

 

Next, check out my rebuild page for a step by step front end rebuild with pics that help you understand what is going on. I also gave instructions and helpful hints like using a pipe nipple with the compressor so you won't have to cut the screw of the tool you just "bought" from Auto Zone. Tool rental is free there. This trick works like a charm.

Page is here:

http://photos.yahoo.com/taramiller72

Click on the first link for the front end rebuild, the next link for the rear end work. Also, you have to get the front springs properly indexed in the lower A-arm and fully seated in the upper groove or you'll be riding like a 4x4 in the front. This is really common and maybe why some of you guys are sitting too high in front. I installed Eibachs so they went in easier than the stockers would, but you get the idea.

HTH, mail me with any questions.

Good luck!!

Ed

 

I dont see why it would take anyone 6 hours to do them, I just did mine, front and I believe it took me 45 min each, including water breaks cuz it was hot out and im lazy, basically I put the car fairly high up on jackstands, jacked up a little on the ball joint at end of A arm, and removed the strut bolts then lowered the A arm with the jack, after that there was a little tension on the spring so it took a tiny bit of force to remove, then I installed my Jamex springs, they were quite a bit shorter than the stock ones, so they went in quite easily, jacked up the arm and reinstall strut bolts.

 

I HAVE a spring compressor...and yes, removal IS easy--don't even need a compressor for that...I can't get the damned things BACK IN (!). The compressor is too long...sticks through the top and hits the top of the spring pocket...

 

After dealing with the same $hit you did, I found a MUCH easier way to do them. Just remove the tie rod end and sway bar end link. Put a jack under the control arm and remove the inner control arm bolts. Lower the jack and voila! The springs go back in and line up real easy. Just remember to tighten the LCA bolts with the suspension loaded (car on ground). Read my post further down on details of the ordeal.

 

Thanks for the helpful tips guys. I'm going to try the spacer method first. Part of my problem is that I don't have the weight of an engine helping to compress the spring, so the whole car raises up when I jack up under the A-arm (these springs are STIFF). I am optomistic that the spacer will help tremendously...

 

For the most part you guys are talking about stock or lowering springs. I on the otherhand, just installed drag springs twice, and keep in mind that these are about 3in taller than stock ones. It took me 2 times because of noise since I left out the busted up isolators the first time. I tried the spring compressor a few different ways and nothing seemed like It would have helped. Maybee a little bit but I dont think It would do the trick any way. Well basically I went with the unbolt controll arm and use a few jacks and a lot of bitching and cussing. one tiny floor jack that isnt tall enough and had to keep adding blocks and the other full size that got high enough but took too much ground space. Aggrevating as hell. Car would raise instead of the controll arm, let it down, shake it around kick a jack or 2 and beat something with the hand sledge, Then everything would line up when it felt like it for no reason after trying the same thing that didnt work 3 times in a row.

I will sell the car before I drop the a arm again. F this junk.

for this job you need.

2 floor jacks (skinny based high lift, like the biggest cheapo wall mart types) would be best Or screw jacks if your on a lift
Beer
hand sledge and or rubber mallet
Beer
Patience
Drift punch (line up holes)
Beer, Patience, Hand tools, BFH, and a lot of other things I forgot.

well, Best of luck

 

Nothing to be scared about. The Jamex springs will go in pretty easy. In fact, any lowering spring will install much easier than the stock springs.

Why so many of you guys remove/install springs by unbolting the struts is beyond me. You then have the spindle/rotor assembly in the way.

Leave the strut bolted up and UNBOLT THE BALLJOINT. I've written a detailed tech article on changing front springs but I can't find a copy of it my computer so I'll give you the short version.

------------------------------
First, set the parking brake, block the rear wheels, raise the front of the car as high as possible and support it with jackstands. Second, put the floor jack under the A-arm and set it so there's a littel space between it and the arm. Next, LOOSEN the nut on the balljoint BUT DON'T REMOVE IT. Leave it threaded on a bit. Now, using a balljoint separator, pop the balljoint loose. Jack the floor jack up to support the A-arm and remove the balljoint nut.

Okay, now you can SLOWLY lower the jack. The A-arm should end up fully extended, just about perpendicular to the ground. There will still be some slight tension on the spring. Using a pry bar, you can pop the stock spring out. The spring should just pop out, but exercise some caution to be safe. The rubber isolator should fall out if the frame too.

-----------------------
Alright, now it's time to install the Jamex spring.

Tape the rubber isolator to the top of the Jamex spring to keep it in place. Next, insert the spring into the frame making sure it's seated correctly. There's a post in the frame that the spring needs to fit around.

With the spring in the frame correctly, raise the A-arm to meet the bottom of the spring and slip the floor jack under the lip of the A-arm. The jack should be pointing perpendicular to the car.

Time to check spring position again. The tail on the bottom of the spring should be on the inside of the A-arm and should end up covering the first drain hole and partially covering the second drain hole in the A-arm.

-----------------------
With all this correct, jack up the A-arm till the balljoint engages the spindle and you can install the nut. Tighten it up, install a new cotter pin, and move on to the other side. When you're all done, head to the alignment shop.

 

Yeah, what Bret said. It's snap doing it the balljoint way!

 

I have a Z-28 and an IROC, both with heavy short springs. I found them difficult to install in stock form. I like the car lower a little so I take 1\2 coil off. The springs go in easy without undoing the control arm, the car sits about 1\2 to 3\4 lower and ride doesn't seem to change. I also chain the spring to the lower control arm during install just in case.
Bob

 

yes that was my problem..i was swapping over that v6 to v8,the used springs i had were from my old 83 ...those big huge heavy springs...even after i had the motor and stuff in it still sat up high in the front...
my new project,the 86 ta,id really like to put new motor mounts in but screw it.....too much bs...unless i wanted to cheat and buy softer and shorter lowering springs lol
never again!!