hey everyone... i was wondering if control arm relocation brackets are worth it on a stock height car..... i have every suspension upgrade between bmr and umi except these.... i was wondering would they make a difference.... i just daily driver this car... but i like to buy parts knowing they upgrade the cars ability.....

 

if you drag race the car, lowering the mount ont he axle side can help launching.

For a stock height car, the control arms want to be about level, so check them, if they are lvl, you are fine, if the are angled up toward the axle significantly, then maybe look into the LCARB's

 

ima look to see where they are in the morning..... and they should be level... where is the ideal position for them to be at....

 

Ideally, the chassis & axle mounts are at an equal height, or the axle mount is slightly lower.

 

i just looked the axle mount is a little bit higher than the chassis mount....... does that mean i would benefit with the relocation brackets..

 

You checked on a level surface right?

Assuming you did, then your rear suspension has a lower than stock ride height, and yes you would benefit from the brackets. I actually have a pair of new BMR bolt in relocation brackets for sale, if you're interested?

 

actually it wasnt on a level surface ill get back to you later tonigh and i will see if they are still the same.... if they are how much do you want for the brackets...

 

+1 for tubular LCA's/LCARB's

 

the first new mounting location in the LCARB's is over 1.5" lower than stock, so if you are alittel off now, you will be much more angled after the brackets.

I would leave them alone for now, wait till you need the brackets if you lower the car.

 

thanks 86 ta... i know i will never lower the car because of my exhaust and current shocks are not designed for lowered cars...

 

I found they help for getting off the line, gave more bite to the ground, I use mine on the lowest setting.

 

My experience with relocating brackets:
Before- my trail arms went downhill from axle to body. The car squatted badly under ANY throttle.
After- even on the upper of the two holes, my trailing arms are decidedly uphill from axle to body. Do not worry about not being just flat, almost all of the squat is gone and traction is MUCH better.

 

relocation brackets helped my stock height camaro! before my rearend was squatting so bad my rear fender lip was cutting my tire side wall. the brackets fixed that and plants the rear so much firmer on take off!

 

If anybody is interested, I have a set of BMR lower control arm brackets that I am trying to sale. Looking to get $40 + shipping. Shoot me a PM if interested.

 

ok everyone i checked on a leveled surface and they are about level.... so i guess i really dont need them... and i dont plan on lowering my car either.....

 

"Ideal" is usually with the rear of the LCA about ½ - ¾" BELOW the frame end. If they're "about level", they may need help.

You'll know the first time you take off. What the LCARBs do is cure wheel hop. If you have that, you need them. If you don't, then you're good to go. They're not a "cure-all" or a "necessity" like SFCs, they're more of a tuning thing. You do whatever works best FOR YOUR CAR, not what somebody else says works best for their car. (which has nothing to do with whether they're telling the truth or not... they probably are)

 

well my take off is excellent... i dont really have wheel hop i just burn tires because of my setup... but my takeoff and handling is excellent...

 

They can also help that, if you have low-traction tires (relative to your power level).

If the LCA angles upward from the frame to the rear end, the car tries to lift (unload) the rear when it accelerates. The rear bumper drops at the starting line.

If the LCA angles downward, the car tries to drive the rear into the pavement when it accelerates. The rear bumper raises at the starting line.

Ideally, it does neither. The rear bumper stays very quiet at the start line and the car just goes. Watch a Pro Stock. Aim for that setup.

Too much of either results in poor traction. The first because of the hop or because it never even gets enough bite to do even that. The 2nd, because the tires will literally "bounce" off the pavement. The car dead-hooks, jumps, then unloads and spins. That's REALLY REALLY REALLY rare on stock suspension in these cars. The 1st scenario is much more common.

Try some. All of the good ones are cheeeeeeep, and allow you to put the car back to stock configuration if they don't help. You have everything to gain and nothing to lose.

 

I agree. Try a set of bolt ons on. I bought some from J&M (i think). Paid $50 shipped and had them installed in less then 30 minutes.

 

I wonder why they still make a different bracket for weld and bolt on. You can simply weld on the bolt ons and no0t have to go through the whole hassle of properly orienting the brackets. If you weld them on crooked you have a problem. The additional brace to the shock won't hurt anything, in fact it will slightly stiffen the shock mount. It would probably be cheaper too to fab just 1 design.