I've been digging around on this concept for a while now, including stickies, threads in stickies etc etc.

I've settled on this but I'm not sure on whether I'm going to be in good shape.

Pro Kit springs
UMI on car adjustable panhard bar
UMI LCAs (not adjustable)
UMI Wonderbar
I'm installing polys all around.
keeping stock sways
stock A arms
KYB adjustable shocks out back (Gas a just or whatever they're called)
KYB GR2 struts in the front

I'm torn on the isolators, should I just use heater hose, keep the originals, or ditch them all together? I've heard that ditching the isolators drops the car another half an inch out back and evens out the rake. but the downside is the ride goes to hell.

Also I'm confused on indexing springs, it sounds to me that the end of the coil needs to be towards the rear of the car. But its not too clear.

I'd go with LCARBs but I don't have access to a welder (and I know my skills there are so so) but the car is a bare shell as I'm resto modding it so it won't go to a welding shop unless I have it a running driving car. OR at least a roller. But how required are they? I know the adjustable track bar is a must, but a friend has his car lowered for sure on race springs and hes running solid non adjustable lakewood LCAs.

I'm also keeping the stock wheels (for now), There is a chance I might put 16 inch black diamond spoke TA wheels on the car in the future.

Thanks in advance for the help guys.

 

I found UMI has bolt in LCARBs that bolt in at the stock LCA location and the shock location. I'll pick these up and have them welded when I get the chance. Better than having incorrect suspension geometry. SO LCARBs will be added to the list. But other than that, do I need anything else?

 

Do you need anything else? No. All you need to lower it is springs. If all you want to do is lower it for looks, don't bother replacing or adding anything else, unless it needs to be replaced.
IMO, keep the isolators, unless you want to lower the car more than the pro kit springs lower it.
For indexing springs, just pay attention to how they are before they come out. It's pretty obvious how they'll need to go back in when you look at it.
Plan on getting an alignment after you lower it though.

 

OK, thanks. I'm building this car up to handle, and go hard. The plan is for a 350+ Horse 350 to go in, and my stock LCAs bent like a tin can. So due to that I was going to replace some things anyway. I was also describing some of the setup I had in mind too so there was more info than just springs. What I was looking for was "You missing this, and you need it". But it sounds like from searching around and all the info I found I got it all.

 

You might want to replace balljoints, steering linkage, endlinks, and strut mounts as well. Those will be more important to replace then most of what you listed. It's likely that those are all worn out as well, (or getting there) and new parts will make a very noticeable difference compared to stock parts in poor condition.

 

Naturally, I'm doing all that stuff too. I have sway endlinks, and I'm working on getting the steering linkage out. (only the center link to pitman connection left. I checked my mounts, they are in good shape. Bearings are excellent and the rubber is in fair condition. I'll replace them further down the road. The car is literally a bare shell with the exception of a few things I didn't take out. My shocks, and struts were all beyond the grave so they are getting replaced anyway. I'm doing this lil by lil hoping to have a rolling chassis by next spring/summer. The reason I asked about the setup was because I'm in the process of putting it all back together. And Eibach has a rebate on their products. I'm going to get the LCAs and a few other things next month so I can get the rear end back attached to the car. But naturally, springs need to go in first. I'm probably going to do the heater hose mod for the isolators for now, I'll keep the stock isolators in case I think I need them.

 

who told you that taking out the rear isolators will make the car handle to hell.. i have the pro kit and deleted the isolators and have the same suspension mods plus alot more and my handling is excellent..... i just took a friend for a ride in my car a couple days ago and he told me it felt like a roller coaster when i took us on some curvy streets.... he said that he felt zero body roll and was planted the whole time.... this is a guy who had a vette wth a professionally built suspension on it......

 

oooopppps....Sorry if that was confusing. I meant the ride will go to hell, not the handling.

Are you using the heater hose mod for the springs or nothing at all? Good to know that the results will be worth it. I'm stuck between splurging for the UMI or Spohn caster plates, and the KYB stock appearing ones. If the handling difference is that big with the UMI or Spohns I'll get them when I get the chance. I noticed the bearings in the mounts click like crazy. and the rubber while fair is 25 years old, not to mention, the damn things are rusting....

I'm trying to get either the back or front of the car done so I can put one side back down. Naturally I'll need to do brakes and lines and etc. But as I'm doing this lil by lil it will be some time...unless I get a boatload of cash at somepoint.

 

yes im usnig the heater hose mod for the rear springs... its worth getting the umi caster plates and kyb shocks..... handling will go way up with those... i would do the back first because its easier and are less parts....... since you getting those caster plates i would get a strut tower brace to really stiffen up the car... you can get bolt on lcarbs and bolt them on yourself and if you want get those welded on whenever you feel like it... that would be stronger than starting out with weld on version because of the shock mount that the bolt lcarbs provide... if your into handling i would get sfc (subframe connectors) most people have one set.. i myself have two sets on my car... then lastly i would get a spohn front end rebuild kit.. that will take car off all the ball joints centerlink and all...

 

I did think about getting the STB but do they work well with carb cars? I'm going to be building up a 350 as I said earlier but I'm keeping the carb setup. Some people say they don't work well with carbs because of clearance issues. But yes, I'm definitely doing the back first. Just tough to get everything at once when funds are month to month.

I've been trying to figure out the bolt on SFCs because I have the whole car in the air. I just don't see where the SFC setup that allows the exhaust to run along the stock location bolts up front. Unless it bolts onto the back of the K member. The only ones I've seen like that are BMRs and they have two sets, one for differing exhaust setups. I'm looking at bolt ins as I can put them in and always have them welded up later.

 

Edelbrock makes a STB that should work, but it isn't a very good design. It is very flexible where it mounts to the strut towers.

 

Looks like I will be getting Spohn's front end kit...they are cheapest even with paying more for shipping. Might be some time before I pull the trigger on that though. Also the same could be said about waiting for the caster plates, struts and more front end pieces. I'm hoping to have the rear all bolted up except for maybe the panhard bar around Christmas. The Front sway and Wonderbar should be on by then as well as the A arms. After Christmas I'll work on getting the front suspension tied up and the brakes. As for the STB....well we will see. I understand the benefits of it, but I want it to be decent, as well as clear the air cleaner. If I don't do it its because it will be too much of a PITA to maintain the motor when I have to remove the STB to get the air cleaner off.

 

broken or worn parts aside- (meaning: if the car has been maintained decently)

I would highly recommend the first thing you ever do to any 3rd gen is Good shocks and good tires- SPEND ALL OF YOUR MONEY HERE FIRST.

next? Absolutely if you can sfford them is caster plates. Get rid of those crappy stock units for some upgraded solid bearing units like Spohn Umi or Hotparts. I like the hotparts units personally- just personal preference.

Then start with your SFC's and all the other crap

 

If the car was a running driving car I may have done that. But the car is a bare shell.... And if you think about it...it is cheaper to replace things once not twice. Everything that had rubber on it, is shot, everything that was in the suspension was either broken or shot, (My LCAs bent like a tin can trying to get semi rotted bushings out...) and finally if I have the time to play around and wait ordering things. This is not my daily driver, it is my good weather toy.

I didn't want to spend the money on stock parts if I was going to just upgrade everything eventually anyway. Yes, my car could have used better tires, the ones on the wheels now are total crap. But if I have a blank canvas I might as well do what I want now.