Do aftermarket lower control arms really help traction? And what about the torque arm? I'd like to get decent tracion without slicks, but while keeping handling of the car relativly the same. Also are subframe conectors helpful?
Thanks for any info.

 

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SFCs would be my first move then change the pinion angle with the LCA relocation brackets then a torque arm that mounts to the floor pan. as well as boxing everything.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Anything that reduces flexing will help. All the factory parts are designed for a smooth quiet ride.

SFC are a must with the unibody car. They should be the welded in type. Aftermarket LCA with relocation brackets should be next. The panhard bar could be changed at the same time. Air bags in the springs will help. Lastly should be the torque arm such as the one from Spohn. Even stock eliminator cars have to run the stock torque arm so as nice as it is in having one, it's the last thing you should pick up. There's more involved such as springs, shocks and weight transfer but it starts getting too complicated.

Getting traction without slicks will always be hit or miss. All the fancy suspension parts in the world won't help if the tires can't grip the pavement.

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87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
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87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley