At first glance it doesn't "look" to be too hard but as always,looks can be deceiving. Other that raising and lowering the engine how much hard labor and b.s.(blood and sweat) am I looking at?

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Mongoose-NCTGA-1990 Pontiac Formula/305 TBI-700R4 with Edelbrock Performer TBI intake,TES headers,and STB,K&N,MSD-6AL,Holley laser shot coil,Accel Extreme 9000 wires,Jet Stage 2 chip,TCI shift kit with corvette servo,Richmond 3.73 gear with Auburn 3 series posi,high flow cat,SLP 3" cat back,Eibach sportline springs,Energy Suspension poly throughout,Lakewood LCA and adjustable panhard bar package,SSM subframe connectors,IROC wonder bar,Tokico 5 way adjustable struts and shocks,Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge,Alpine,JL Audio,MB Quart,92 GTA taillights,92 GTA aero wing and hatch,Steve Spohn LCA relocater kit and torque arm,MacEwen White face gauges,84 T/A cold air induction air cleaner,Grant Formula GT wheel.

 

It's a real chore... they're held to the frame with bolts and locknuts, so you absolutely have to get a wrench into the K-member to change them. The time to do them is when the control arms are already off for suspension work.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

If the control arms aren't off you can get at the nuts in the crossmember with a 15mm u-joint swivel 3/8 drive socket from Sears, you will need a long extension to reach the nuts. When ready to reinstall,take a coathanger and straighten it out and wrap one end tight around the nut, put a skin coat of silicon sealer on the face of the nut to hold washer. Angle the nut/washer to sit flush on the crossmember when in position to run bolt in it and VOILA!
The only other thing you will need is a little patience.

 

This is what I did I went and got me some of those spring lowering kits from autozone for $5 that come with what looks like a small spring compresor 4 come in the kit I used two on eack spring jack up the car by the control arms remove the tire put on on each side of the spring doesnt have to be super tight this is to keep the spring from expanding I then used a floor jack to lift the car up buy the subframe then undo the struts and sway bar and let the control arm swing down then pop the spring out change the mounts out and then put it all back to gether this is also a good time to put lowering springs and new struts on as well.

 

I used a cheap 15mm box end wrench and bent it to match the angles for the nuts. Had to weld a "handle" on it for one of the nuts. All in all, it worked pretty well.

Dale

 

So how do I get to the nuts inside the K member? Are there openings that allow access to get a socket or wrench on them or do I have to go in through the end that is blocked by the control arm? Would it be worth paying a mechanic to get it done? I'm going to need this done soon and I need to know.


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Mongoose-NCTGA-1990 Pontiac Formula/305 TBI-700R4 with Edelbrock Performer TBI intake,TES headers,and STB,K&N,MSD-6AL,Holley laser shot coil,Accel Extreme 9000 wires,Jet Stage 2 chip,TCI shift kit with corvette servo,Richmond 3.73 gear with Auburn 3 series posi,high flow cat,SLP 3" cat back,Eibach sportline springs,Energy Suspension poly throughout,Lakewood LCA and adjustable panhard bar package,SSM subframe connectors,IROC wonder bar,Tokico 5 way adjustable struts and shocks,Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge,Alpine,JL Audio,MB Quart,92 GTA taillights,92 GTA aero wing and hatch,Steve Spohn LCA relocater kit and torque arm,MacEwen White face gauges,84 T/A cold air induction air cleaner,Grant Formula GT wheel.

 

Aww crap I was planning on changing my motor mounts soon.

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TH700R4 Auto
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Soon to be non-computer.
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"A four cylinder is half an engine."
"Ponies can run, but birds can fly..."

 

How far is Monroe from Greenville Nc I live in Stokes right out side of greenvile If your clse buy you can bring it down and I will help you change them out.

 

I just changed mine last week

and RB83L69 is right it is a real chore...

unless you need to do it right now I would wait untill some suspension work is needed ...

also it will raise up your motor from stock hight... ("if you are replacing them with ES Poly mounts")... I ran into that as well = too close to Strut tower brace and had to make same 1/4 " plates to raise up the brace..

hope that helps

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Hecubus
Check out my site http://www.geocities.com/hecubus91
91-Z28 305 Tpi "G92" mods-- K$N/Foil/Cat Back 3" Flowmaster/3" High Flow Cat/B&M shifter/ Intrax Springs/ Kyb Shock's-Struts's/Poly Bushings/Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace/Nos Wet Plate System currently ~ 175-200hp shot/ 255lph Fuel Pump/ Holly Adj. Fuel Press. Regulator/Digital Fuel,Air-fuel, voltage & Oil Press Guage's/MSD 6al/ Blaster coil/ Optima,Yellow top batt./Pro-Built stage 3 700 R4/ACT 2400 stall converter/Trans-Go shift kit

"I spent all my money on race cars, beer, and Broads... The Rest I wasted"

 

Monroe is about 4-5 hours from Greenville(made the trip several times to visit my brother at ECU) so that wouldn't work. I think I've got a good idea on getting the job done though. I plan to remove the front springs and let the A arms hang down to get to all the bolts since I need to replace the rubber silencers anyway.

 

It'd a lot easier with the A-Arms off the car.I've always done it while replacing A-Arm
Bushings.
You can also replace both pieces with the Moroso Solid Steel Mounts, Like I did.You'll never have to replace them again.
-Rich-

 

I'm trying to get rid of a vibration,not increase them with solid mounts. This is for a street car not a race car.

 

I've used steel motor mounts and suspension bushings in my street driven cars for years and really prefer them to rubber.Haven't really noticed any increase in vibration,just a little noisier,and I usually drown that out with exhaust and music anyway.My 2 cents.
-Rich-

 

Ever since about 1970, all GM motor mounts I am aware of use a clamshell type arrangement that prevents the motor from moving more than about .5 inch even if the mount is broke. For that reason, you should not need a solid mount address recurring broken mounts. If nothing else, put a turnbuckle from the driverside frame to the bottom block bolt (where the PS bracket attaches at the bottom). It will prevent the mount from taking all the strain when you braketorque it .

 

When reinstalling you may want to flip around the nut/bolt arrangement; i.e. push the bolt up through the frame and put the nut/washer up on top. Instead of trying to fumble**** the nut/washer combo in through the frame. Still took about an hour. Without the engine in the car.

Steve

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Steve's Trans Am Temple