SubFrame Connector or Roll Cage?
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
SubFrame Connector or Roll Cage?
Which would be better...
Spohn SubFrame connector or a 6PT Roll Cage from year one that doesn't interfer with the passengers?
Which holds the car together better? I have a T-Top and really need to st]rengthen my car and would like to know if ubframe connecttors or Roll Cages work better?
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'88 2.8 V6 Sport Coupe
Navy Blue w/ light Grey GFX
'shorty' Rear Wing
cybergarage.cjb.net
stuart69427@aol.com
Spohn SubFrame connector or a 6PT Roll Cage from year one that doesn't interfer with the passengers?
Which holds the car together better? I have a T-Top and really need to st]rengthen my car and would like to know if ubframe connecttors or Roll Cages work better?
------------------
'88 2.8 V6 Sport Coupe
Navy Blue w/ light Grey GFX
'shorty' Rear Wing
cybergarage.cjb.net
stuart69427@aol.com
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
if it was me, i would do the sub frames, cause even if you do the roll cage (which will help) it doesn't adress the problem of connecting the unibody frame together like it should be.
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Dewey 3:16
90 RS 305 TBI LO3
36mm/24mm swaybars, Spohn Panhard, SFC, LCA's, and RLB. "Wonder"bar, Edelbrock STB, and K&N.
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Dewey 3:16
90 RS 305 TBI LO3
36mm/24mm swaybars, Spohn Panhard, SFC, LCA's, and RLB. "Wonder"bar, Edelbrock STB, and K&N.
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From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
hey,
I'm not an expert but I'll give you my insight.
If you're worried about getting in and out of the car and passengers, don't bother with a cage. It's not going to do much good if it's gotta stay outta the way of the "cargo". Unless you're worried about rolling over, then it's better than nothing.
Subframe connectors seem to be the standard procedure for setting a good baseline. I think a basic cage will get you just as stiff, but most guys do the connectors then ad a cage later. Usually the cage comes when the car is taken off the street (for all intents and purposes).
just a little rambling...HTH
Clem
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SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
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1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)
http://communities.msn.com/clemsprojects
I'm not an expert but I'll give you my insight.
If you're worried about getting in and out of the car and passengers, don't bother with a cage. It's not going to do much good if it's gotta stay outta the way of the "cargo". Unless you're worried about rolling over, then it's better than nothing.
Subframe connectors seem to be the standard procedure for setting a good baseline. I think a basic cage will get you just as stiff, but most guys do the connectors then ad a cage later. Usually the cage comes when the car is taken off the street (for all intents and purposes).
just a little rambling...HTH
Clem
------------------
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
-------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)
http://communities.msn.com/clemsprojects
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
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From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
I may as well cast my vote. 
I've never met a "good" 6 point bar that didn't get in the way.
That being said, I think a quality designed and correctly installed 6 point bar should stiffen the chassis at least as much if not more than subframe connectors.
•The front two points tie into floor in about the same area as the front of the subframe connectors would.
•The middle two points tie into about the same area as the rear of the subframe connectors would. These also provide lateral (side to side) support here that subframe connectors don't.
•The rear two points tie into the floor over or behind (depending on design) the rear axle.
All of these points are tied together at the main hoop and stiffen the chassis both longitudinally and laterally.
Keep in mind that all of these bars are triagulated making them much stiffer than a straight beam like subframe connectors.
You could also add a halo and uprights for it to stiffen the chassis even more.
Subframe connectors do substantialy stiffen the chassis though, and the passengers won't even know that they are there at all.
[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited November 12, 2001).]

I've never met a "good" 6 point bar that didn't get in the way.
That being said, I think a quality designed and correctly installed 6 point bar should stiffen the chassis at least as much if not more than subframe connectors.
•The front two points tie into floor in about the same area as the front of the subframe connectors would.
•The middle two points tie into about the same area as the rear of the subframe connectors would. These also provide lateral (side to side) support here that subframe connectors don't.
•The rear two points tie into the floor over or behind (depending on design) the rear axle.
All of these points are tied together at the main hoop and stiffen the chassis both longitudinally and laterally.
Keep in mind that all of these bars are triagulated making them much stiffer than a straight beam like subframe connectors.
You could also add a halo and uprights for it to stiffen the chassis even more.
Subframe connectors do substantialy stiffen the chassis though, and the passengers won't even know that they are there at all.
[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited November 12, 2001).]
no question SFCs, they're made to stiffen the chassis up. a roll cage isn't made for stiffening the chassis even if they do it, in a round about way, the cage is for roll over protection. plus to install a cage you'd have to pretty much strip the interior.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 0
From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
thanx
------------------
'88 2.8 V6 Sport Coupe
Navy Blue w/ light Grey GFX
'shorty' Rear Wing
cybergarage.cjb.net
stuart69427@aol.com
------------------
'88 2.8 V6 Sport Coupe
Navy Blue w/ light Grey GFX
'shorty' Rear Wing
cybergarage.cjb.net
stuart69427@aol.com
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I vote SFC's. Unless you are swapping engines and making a drag car.
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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040
http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040
http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
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From: Columbia MO
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: WCT5
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ede:
...a roll cage isn't made for stiffening the chassis even if they do it, in a round about way, the cage is for roll over protection.
</font>
...a roll cage isn't made for stiffening the chassis even if they do it, in a round about way, the cage is for roll over protection.
</font>

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