I was wondering because im planning out a drift 92Z but thats besides the point. What kind of suspension would work the best for that style of racing? and what kind of fab work would I possibly need to do? Also what roll cage setup would be the best? (I was thinking 6 or 8pt)?

Tim

 

Yep, there are a few members- can't honestly remember all of them but CrazyHawaiian is the most well known. This question gets asked pretty often so a search will turn up a lot of answers and give you some direction. The main things you'll find recommended in those threads will be:
-suspension-
new adjustable struts
lowering springs or weight jacks
adjustable panhard bar
subframe connectors
steering brace
full steering/ front end rebuild
steering box adjustment or rebuild

-drivetrain-
You'll toast that 700r in one long day of drifting. You totally can drift automatics but you're at a disadvantage- it's so much easier to upset the balance of a car with a clutch. You'll never do a shift lock or clutch kick drift without one.
You'll want a strong manual gearbox with a good racing clutch (factory t5's are too weak- a rebuilt one would work, but for that price you could probably get a t56 out of an LT1 car) There are also a number of custom order gearboxes- these will work but the t56 is probably the best value out there.
You'll also want to rebuild your differential. If you're not using the car on the street you could just weld the differential and it'll work fine, but you'll eat tires driving daily. If this is the case you could swap in a stronger rear with posi or rebuild the one you have and add in a strong posi unit.

-Engine-
Power helps. People have drifted 88 whp ae86 corollas for years, but drivers who do so are often revered because of the difficulty of it. You can get sideways with 170hp, but to really do well you'll want at least 250 hp and a motor that can sustain high RPM's without worry.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSWAIPqCOt8
Zack Catlin's car is a good example of a thirdgen drift car.
Here's a link that has some of his specs:
http://www.proamdrift.com/zachcatlin.html

It can and has been done but it's pricey to build an all out drift car and do it right. Now if you just want to get sideways for as cheap as possible, just get a set of KONI struts, some old WS6 or IROC springs and cut them to the desired height, swap in a 5 speed and get an old posi axle off another Camaro or Trans Am. Weld in some subframe connectors and drift away... You'll break lots of stuff though and the car won't look as good, but it will get you sideways.

 

/thread, great post. i agree with everything above. look up z28evans on here, he is the guy behind "bubba drift" and drifts an ls1/t56 iroc

 

as easy is the rearend comes around on these cars i'd bet it makes a great drifter

 

Well, I'll never drive an import and 3rd gen camaros are the cars I'm most comfortable gettin sideways in, everyone has a certain car.

And I'm modeling my car after Zach Catlins car and I've talked to him before on the subject. I was told not to worry about height as he runs near stock height on his 1LE Z28. Also I asked if he used an LSD rear out of a 4th gen before and he told me yes and that it is a good choice but to stay away from the Auburn units, '93-97? I think...not sure but I know its the earlier 4th gens. Sub-frame connectors are a must. And Torque is key, thats why Im planning a 383 LT1, plenty of torque there to be gained. He uses an S-10 manual steering box and has removed the steering stops. (What are Steering stops?) He uses spacers too not sure is all around, or front only. These are to increase steering by a little by pushing the rims out slightly.

What are the difference in the IROC/WS6 springs compared to the RS ones sitting on the car now? How different are they?Also wht is the panhard bar? and what does it do?

I've been reading around and I've heard people say that you want negative "camber" in the front and neutral or slightly positve in the back. Why does this make a difference in the car? What is camber and toe BTW?

 

Ok guys this is a serious topic here that I personally am tying to discuss with others and to provide as well as gain information. If your not going to post something helpful to the topic, please do not post at all.

 

lots of Hp (over 450) a locker 9"w/411s a TCI prept 700R4 with a 9" 4000 stall. and a full set up from lingenfelter.SSM. and spohn. always worked for me. and is alot more fun to drift in then a stick... but thats just me

 

OP, talk to z28evans, or just check out some of his threads.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...o-project.html

He's also one of the more well known drifters on here.

 

Torque is key in the equation though not HP. and to each his own as for your auto setup if it works for you then your all set. I'd just rather a manual IMO.

And thanks for the thread link and backup from spam

 

First off if your going to drift, its stated in the rule books you need at least a 6 point cage with door bars. Mine as well go 8 for the safety factor. Second if you want the most performance you need to stay away from a solid rear axle and go with an IRS from a c4 vette. Anything to stiffin up your chassis as well like subframe connectors, stb, roll cage, weld chassis seem... also a t5 or t56 would help out. No need for a high performance clutch. Also the lower your car the better and upgrade your sway bars. Coil overs with doubble adj. Shocks would make an impact on your handling. Biggest this with drifting a 3rd gen is the kick back after the slide that makes you lose .controll and that can be tuned in your shocks. Also a nice negative camber and toe out with negative caster will give you the most grip and steering angle going through a drift.

 

Please honor sk8r's request for pertinent information.

JamesC