Trying to get at replacing these motor mounts. It's a v8 car.
Will I run into any problems with the motor out of the car? I heard people that jack the control arms up with the springs on them the car starts to move up before it's seated all the way?? What is the hardest step in removal/installation of a- arms?

 

problem is that without the weight of the engine, the springs will extend and make it very hard to get it all back together without compressing the spring with a spring compresser. And honestly, i dont think you will be able to compress the springs enough.

you can change the motor mounts without removing the a-arms and springs. its a bit tricky, but with some creativity and a variety sockets and adapters, but its possible. I did it.

 

Since the bolts have a tendency to seize to the inserts, you may spend a load of time freeing them. In my case, two were frozen. I spend an hour plus on each one. When I replaced the bolts with new, I used anti-seize!

JamesC

 

Watch this video from Muscle Car TV show. They install springs in a sub-frame, no engine, no car. they use a spring compressor. If they can do it with no car or motor, you should have no problem with a compressor.

http://www.powerblocktv.com/video/?e...-07&ep_show=MC

 

Its doable for sure. but if you get the right adapters like James said you dont really have to mess with them springs.

 

I've done it a few times. It's always been with lowering springs though. I think it's worth the ease to pull the mounts without the springs in the way. Be a good time to replace the bushings and ball joints too. If you have any trouble reinstalling, throw some weight on the crossmember (or on the strut tower).

 

Thanks for the info guys.
I'm gonna try the internal spring compressor the powerblock guys used. Looks like they already had the 2 pivot bolts in, put the compressed spring in then jacked up the control arm on the ball joint side. I think it's gonna work.

 

Since the engine is gone, try wrapping a strong strap or chain from the jack to the frame so the car doesnt lift up, the jack compresses the spring

In my case, I had to do this even with the engine in the car

 

Alright, I'll try that first since I already have that stuff. Thanks.

Oh and did you guys ever have any trouble seperating that ball joint stud from the control arm? Not pressing it out but just seperating it so you can remove the control arm from the car. I tried torching, PB blasting and hammering it but it just won't budge at all. I put the upside down castle nut over the stud and tried hammering it but all I did was shove the nut down the threads and ruin both. How did you guys get it off?

 

it may help to get a "pickle fork" and try and separate the ball joint and spindle from in between and not the top. Even if it doesn't get it out completely, it may help free something for the next round of bashing-from-above-with-a-huge-hammer (my preferred method, but the ball joints were being replaced already... )

 

Dang! forgot all about the pickle fork..Thanks man, worked like a charm.

My next question for you guys is can I remove the other control arm without worrying about lining things up? I read somewhere here that removing both sides makes it hard to line up the bolt holes or something? I dunno.

 

Removing both LCA's at the same time can cause some difficulties, but removing both a-arms should be a non-issue.

JamesC

 

Alright cool, thank you sir.

 

You can remove them both without the engine in. I have. Just be careful as the front end is very light with no engine and the stock springs have enough force to lift the front end up if the spring compressor isn't tight enough. If your rear wheels are on the ground you should not have any problems. Mine was on jackstands all the way around on the SFC's and the car tipped to the rear when I removed the arms and k-member.

 

I had the front supported on the sway bar bushings, rear wheels on the ground. I didn't even use a compressor for the spring (idiot) I just took off one pivot bolt at a time with a jack under the bolt I was removing then slowly let the jack down and walked away from the spring lol. Then I just pickle forked the ball joint. Worked nicely.

I guess I should've used a spring compressor.. but I really didn't want to talk to the people at auto zone.

 

Your way works fine too. If you do it that way again just wrap a chain through the a-arm and spring so it can't go airborne. Those things contain a lot of energy!