Is there an easy way to convert the stock pump to a remote reservior (I know that you used to be able to buy just the pump and replace it in your existing reservoir, but I don't remember what it looks like inside)? Is there still some way to mount it if you do?

Alternativly, is there a fairly easy swap to a remote reservoir pump?

I'm trying to clear the space in front of the driver's side head and I haven't seen any PS pump brackets or setups that don't put the fill on the PS pump reservoir in front of the head... I suppose that you could lean it over some to get it out of the way, but I don't see how that will work without making it prone to spilling/leaking.

 

This wouldn't be in regards to converted LT1 heads with coolant fittings in the front wound it?

 

Why wouldnt one work with a custom bracket?

Pressure differences doesnt seem to be a deal breaker since LT1/LS1 pumps are commonly used on stock steering boxes and by design they can be used with remote reservoirs

 

Maybe, why?

 

eh there are a lot of other choices of cylinder heads that are far superior than stock lt1 castings, any reason you'd want to go thru this hassle?

 

Exactly!!! you sneaky bastard i read right though your post ...

Im sure i deserve some shit to since iv neglected to finish up the LT1 head conversion... but anyway, Iv come up with a semi good plan for this but its all on paper, At least for me im stuck because i run march brackets and pulleys and have already talked to march about my issues this is what they said: "The 452 case is actually larger than a standard saginaw pump case. So, I do not think that would work for you either. Unfortunately, on that kit we do not offer a way to mount a remote pump for power steering, you would have to get something custom made." - So it looks like another home fab for me... if your in the same boat as me this is my idea...





The round tube that comes up on the reservoir where you fill and have a stick with fluid level marks... my idea was to cut that flush and weld in a plate the 2nd idea within collaboration of the first would be to have a nut welded to the back side and either run a Allen head plug or a some type of bolt with a shallow head, or just leave the welded plate alone and have a separate tube off to the side to fill and check from... either way at least for me doing something like i mentioned above would be more then adequate to run the coolant fittings... and there is a sweet spot to tap the coolant fittings in the heads too! but at any rate that should work as far as filling goes your still going to need a funnel and if need be a way check the fuild level which shouldn't be to hard to do or figure out.

 

If it was a 4" or more bore engine, sure (I have some canfield aluminum heads sitting around for my next one)... give me an idea what would work better with 1.94/1.5 valves? Heck, give me something with small valves, flows over 230/195cfm, will deal with .576" lift and that bolts up to traditional SBC parts for around $1200 or less and I'l be there all day.

I have a bunch of LT1 parts sitting around, I ported them (~250/200cfm), welded the decks and have a victor jr with injector bungs sitting around and this is the only real headache I have with them. The only thing that I've come up with even close- Vortec heads and I'll be in the cost of the heads, cost of the manifold/efi (I haven't found anything cheap/easy to do efi on them), have to do _a lot_ of work to get them to flow as much, and a ton of machining to work with the .576" lift that I'm running, which is a drop in spring swap on the LT1's. And they'll still be 50# heavier iron heads

 

So where is the sweet spot that you speak of?

I know where I think I should tap them (1.25" up and 1.25" in from the bottom outside corner of the front face), but haven't done it in case I need to skooch it over a fraction of an inch to clear something. I don't like the typical "drill out the coolant crossover port" that some people have done, because that doesn't put the flow where you need it, just where they added an extra small passage to make sure you don't get air bubbles trapped.

As far as the rest of your answer- I'm not sure it would work. The problem is that the cap is designed to relieve some pressure in the tank for when the fluid gets hot (ford caps have a clear hole in them)- I think your solution will blow out the o-ring seals where the tank presses over the pump (I could think of a couple of ways around this but none are pretty, I have 2 extra factory pumps sitting around that I can experiment with but the fact is I HATE the brackets they used, the whole deal was just ugly for anything but what it was originally designed for). I found some aftermarket brackets that could be easily modified to hold the pump over 45* over to the outside to get the filler out of the way, but I'm afraid that in hard cornering I'm going to end up with fluid spraying over the driver's side of the engine (and i've seen an engine fire that started with a leaking PS pump, it wasn't pretty).