Chassis Tightening Suggestions
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: PA
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Chassis Tightening Suggestions
Hey everyone,
I have decided to start stiffening up my chassis before I pull out the old 305 tpi and replace it with something with 400+ horsepower (car has T-tops).
-First I am pretty sure I have decided on the Spohn SFC's, They seem easy enough to install, are tucked up out of the way (ground clearance for futture lowering) and are very effective from what ive heard. Any opinions on this? Pros Cons? (Ive already read the SFC sticky thread just wanted more opionions.)
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Top-Cars.html
_ Second I think I am going to install the wonderbar from TDS, I like how this one has an "extra bolt" for a mounting point. Any pros or cons on the TDS bar or suggestions on what brand to get if not TDS?
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/ste...bird-p-45.html
Any other general suggestions about beginning to tighten up my chassis and freshen up the old WS6 suspension would be appreciated.
THANKS
I have decided to start stiffening up my chassis before I pull out the old 305 tpi and replace it with something with 400+ horsepower (car has T-tops).
-First I am pretty sure I have decided on the Spohn SFC's, They seem easy enough to install, are tucked up out of the way (ground clearance for futture lowering) and are very effective from what ive heard. Any opinions on this? Pros Cons? (Ive already read the SFC sticky thread just wanted more opionions.)
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Top-Cars.html
_ Second I think I am going to install the wonderbar from TDS, I like how this one has an "extra bolt" for a mounting point. Any pros or cons on the TDS bar or suggestions on what brand to get if not TDS?
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/ste...bird-p-45.html
Any other general suggestions about beginning to tighten up my chassis and freshen up the old WS6 suspension would be appreciated.
THANKS
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Chassis Tightening Suggestions
If you haven't already, you might peruse the How-to sticky at the top of the page.
JamesC
JamesC
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 2
From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: Chassis Tightening Suggestions
Spohn SFC's: Great fit and they do what they are advertised to do. (I jack the car via these SFC's)
Steering Brace: TDS makes the 3 bolt one. I replaced my stocker with this one. Did it make a difference.. No. But it's cheap. If you don't have one already, get one.
Steering Brace: TDS makes the 3 bolt one. I replaced my stocker with this one. Did it make a difference.. No. But it's cheap. If you don't have one already, get one.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Chassis Tightening Suggestions
Get teh TDS wonderbar. Only reason to go with one form another place is perhaps it is in a color you prefer...
Personally I'd just see if I could get a factory one from a junkyard... Probably $10.
Btw I play through a 5150, but it aint shred!
Personally I'd just see if I could get a factory one from a junkyard... Probably $10.
Btw I play through a 5150, but it aint shred!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1988 Flame Red Trans am GTA
Engine: Forged 355 4 Bolt, FIRST TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: ls1 torsen 3.42 gear
Re: Chassis Tightening Suggestions
sfcs (1 inner and one outer is best)
strut tower brace
wonderbar
aftermarket torque arm( greatly reduces nose dives on hard braking )
of course hard top cars lol
thats about all i can think of...
strut tower brace
wonderbar
aftermarket torque arm( greatly reduces nose dives on hard braking )
of course hard top cars lol
thats about all i can think of...
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1988 Flame Red Trans am GTA
Engine: Forged 355 4 Bolt, FIRST TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: ls1 torsen 3.42 gear
Re: Chassis Tightening Suggestions
oh yeah i forgot about that... im running umi's and they are very nice quality and helps big time the the handling department..
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 2
From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: Chassis Tightening Suggestions
I would also not forget about bushings... Most, if not all bushings should be changed out for poly or a rod ended type (spohn's del sphere or UMI's roto joint designs are very quiet but durable and do NOT bind). Bushings will make the car feel much more solid although it will not re-inforce the chassis. Bushings I would change are:
-sway bars and sway bar endlinks
-a-arms
-Lower control arms
-panhard bar
-tranny mount (debatable.. some prefer rubber because of vibration at higher speeds)
-Torque arm
I would stay away from solid or poly motor mounts because that will transmit a ton of vibration into the chassis, unless this is an all out race car.
While we're on this topic, if you are going to get solid bearing strut mounts as a pose to the rubber OE ones, you might as well get better shocks and stiffer springs as well to go with them. Those will make a huge difference in how much more "solid" or "stiffer" the car feels, although they won't re-inforce the chassis.
-sway bars and sway bar endlinks
-a-arms
-Lower control arms
-panhard bar
-tranny mount (debatable.. some prefer rubber because of vibration at higher speeds)
-Torque arm
I would stay away from solid or poly motor mounts because that will transmit a ton of vibration into the chassis, unless this is an all out race car.
While we're on this topic, if you are going to get solid bearing strut mounts as a pose to the rubber OE ones, you might as well get better shocks and stiffer springs as well to go with them. Those will make a huge difference in how much more "solid" or "stiffer" the car feels, although they won't re-inforce the chassis.
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