Hey everybody,
I want to lower my car this spring with the Eibach Pro Kit. Is it really necessary to get all the additional parts to keep the correct geometry of the suspension when lowering with the Pro kit?
In the lowering 101 thread it states that you must install "adjustable panhard bar, LCA relocation brackets, and an adjustable torque arm".
Is it necessary to replace all these other parts when I am only lowering the car 1" to 1.5". with the Pro kit? I just wondered if it was only necessary to do all this when lowering with a more aggressive kit (sportlines or anything else closer to 2 inches of lowering)

Thanks!

 

you will definitely need an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the rear end after you lower the car.

relocation brackets and a torque arm are not really necessary, but relocation brackets are fairly cheap and you can fab your own if you wanted to, and they will help to correct the angle of the lower control arms to help with wheelhop and traction.

torque arms with let you reset the pinion angle but i don't think its as important plus it costs a significant amount of money.

 

That does make alot of sense. The panhard bar and relocation brackets arent bad on price. But 300 for the torque arm is a bit pricey. Just trying to get my car lowered and handling better on somewhat of a budget.

 

From what I have been able to dig up around here and at other sites is that the factory torque arm is acceptable for most DD and street driven applications. Unless you are autocrossing or some such thing, then I would give a replacement torque arm a pass. However, I would look into a torque arm relocation mount to get the torque arm off the tail shaft of the tranny. I purchased one for my '86 Z but have not installed it yet.

An adjustable pan hard bar is a wise move. I can tell you that after lowering my car I had to adjust the rear axle about an inch.

 

I didnt even know they made relocation brackets for the torque arm. Thats a great option, where did you get yours from? ( I haven't seen it on any manufacturers websites I have been on)

 

Yup, we make brackets for your factory torque arm.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=298

There is a dropdown box for the poly bushing you'll need as well.

We have your adjustable PHB as well. There are various options on there from mild to wild.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dex&cPath=6_84

And finally, for relocation brackets, you don't NEED them for street but with a lowered car the uncorrected trailing arm angle wreaks havoc with forward traction. Relocation brackets provide a cost effective way to regain that traction and then some (if you go even lower on the adjustment holes).

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dex&cPath=6_85

This is a lot to digest. Give us a call or hit us up on here and we can get you dialed in.

Happy New Year

ramey

 

This looks like some great options. Now I certainly am no expert on this stuff which is why I am asking. But the relocater for the torque arm is priced at 250.00 and the adjustable torque arm itself is 300.00 so if I was going to spend the money why would I just not get the torque arm? (This is an honest question not sarcasm, educate me)
Thanks

 

The bracket can be used with the factory torque arm. Our UMI arm is an additional upgrade. i.e. the total cost would be $550-ish to do both. Some guys use their factory arm but relocate using our mount and poly biscuit.


Ramey

 

I agree in theory it would be necessary to install an adjustable PHB to center the rear end after lowering the car using the lowering springs. However I want to share my experience using the Pro-Kit springs. After installing the springs I measured the rim to fender lip on both sides of my car and found the dimensions within 1/16". That was so close to centered that I decided to forego buying an adjustable PHB. So IMO budget for purchasing an adjustable PHB along with the lowering springs and rear LCA relocation brackets. But hold off on buying the adjustable PHB until after you lower the car and take the measurements.

You will need the LCA relocation brackets to correct the angle of the LCA after lowering to help prevent wheel hop.

Lon

 

I had to get the adjustable camber/caster plate in order to align my front end. I replaced everthing except the adjustable torque arm. My car launches straight and hard (zero wheel hop) with 295/50/16 on back. Enjoy

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...berplates.aspx

 

Just my opinion, I did not like those springs I ended up selling them last car, I have gone with Hotchkis this time they were only $50 more.

 

How would you compare the two brands?

Looks
Firmness/bumps
Handling

 

Won' really know until I get these on and am able to drive the car, read good reviews on them. I just did not care for the ride or the stance on my Eibachs

 

Hey thanks for all the great info. guys. And thanks especially to Lon (just got my Wonderbar from top down solutions to go along with all these uprades im doing in the spring). I think ill go with what everyone is saying and get the adjustable panhard bar and relocation brackets and hold off on the adjustable torque arm and measure to so if it is really "needed" once I install the springs.

 

Take measurements now of the spacing of your rear end. Use a weighted string and hold it against the outer fender lip on each side of the car and measure from it to the edge of the wheel lip. Do this before and after installing the lowering springs. In my case the measurement after installing the springs was within 1/16". If you find that the rear end has shifted significantly to the drivers side, then yes you'll need the adjustable PHB. If you are ordering several items in addition to the PHB then there may be a cost savings in S&H by ordering all the items at once. Otherwise you may save some money by waiting to order the adjustable PHB until after you take your before and after measurements. Drive the car for a bit after installing the springs to allow them to settle in before taking your "after" measurement. The only purpose of an adjustable torque arm (other than being somewhat stronger than a stock version) is to allow you to set your pinion angle of the rear end. If you're not planning much if any drag racing this won't matter.

Lon

 

Also, I have found that GM's lovely production tolerances come into play here. Using several different reference points gives you different information. I had to take them, (outside edge of tire/wheel assembly to fender well lip at several different points, inside edge to inner wheel well at several different points, inside edge to jounce bumper, inside edge to LCA) and come up with an "average". So, measured at any one point it's going to be off but taken together, hopefully I'm at the correct point or at least damn close. And, while I'm not the original owner, I'm 99% sure my vehicle was never in an accident. I believe it was GM's "good enough" mentality of that time.

 

Sounds like a great plan Lon. Who knew lowering an inch could be such a pain. However; if im going to do it I want to do it right. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

You bring up a good point Watajob, Ill definitely take my measurements from several different locations. I think ill order the Adjustable panhard bar and relocation brackets along with the springs and take everyones advice and hold off on the Adjustable torque arm. I just hope I dont have to purchase the adjustable camber/caster plate to get my front end aligned properly (217.00 ouch!) kinds blows my budget...

 

With a UMI Performance torque arm relocation mount you use the factory arm. You'll need to install a new TA poly bushing since the factory style won't work. The TA relocation mount is also a new tranny mount so it does more than just relocate the TA. Kind of a multi tasker. Change the tranny mount bushing while your at it. I replaced mine and it cost less than 10 bucks at AZone.

 

I was able to get mine done, with a pretty aggressive caster setting, (5 deg) with fresh stock mounts. Totally unrelated but you'll thank yourself later: install a set of engine mounts when you have the springs out. It's literally a 15 min procedure as opposed to the all afternoon, spasm inducing, curse-a-thon when they're in place.

 

Never even would have thought of that! Ill add that too the list... and so you think I should be able to stick with my stock caster/camber plates and be able to get it aligned properly?

 

Hi Shred.

You should be able to get it aligned properly with your stock CC hardware. Adding our CC plates simply gives you more adjustment. If you're not going super aggressive, stock works fine.

Oh, the other benefit is the spherical bearing at the top instead of the stock rubber floppy biscuit situation.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=402

Good point on the engine mounts, I agree. If you're so inclined and want a crisp response type engine feel:...

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=124

ramey

 

Thanks for all the help to everyone. I also thought of one more question. I replaced my shocks and struts last summer with the best Monroe ones I could get (yeah I know Monroe sucks). When I put the pro kit springs on can I keep these shocks and struts on seeing as they are still brand new? I cant afford to replace them with Konis or a better racing shock/strut just for the heck of it.
Thanks

 

Sure you can keep them.

The lowering springs will tend to wear out the struts/shocks a little bit faster than stock height springs. You may find the ride to be a bit rougher. The Monroes simply aren't valved for lowering springs like the Konis/Bilstein/AGX are. But with the Pro Kit, it's really not that low. Most of our cars with original springs are now at the height of the Pro Kit.

Now if you had Monroes and Sportlines, I would say you'd hate the ride. You'd have a rough riding car that would go through struts/shocks quicker. And it would pound you on every bump. The Sportlines are a bad combination of too low and too soft. Then you add shocks designed for stock height, and the car just wouldn't be enjoyable.

 

Hmm... that makes sense yeah ill keep the Monroes till they wear out then get some konis or blisteins.