http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/41/


Anybody try this before? Looks pricey but safer to use...

 

I stand corrected.... Actually the same price as the zone...but I'm not sure about Eastwoods return policy for tools...

 

I can't imagine that an external will work.

JamesC

 

external won't work, gotta be internal.

 

^ I agree. Only time I've used external ones is when the springs are strut mounted.

I used the internal coil spring compressor with aligning plate for my super long edelbrock drag spring install. I got it a rent a tool from the Auto Parts Store. Took a long time and a lot of fighting but it worked eventually.

One like this:

 

If you rent, make sure you purchase a pipe nipple. Check post #5 of the following link for a pic:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nt-spring.html

JamesC

 

Interesting. I bet that would work well for normal springs.

I'm not sure it would work for longer drag springs. Has anyone tried it with longer springs?

I had to run the full length of the bolt threads just to compress the drag springs enough to fit it into the pocket. Even then I managed to put a hole in the upper pocket sheet metal on one side.

100k Mile WS6 Springs VS new drag springs

 

no it wont work. get an internal and a 3/4 coupling (small piece of pipe) from home depot plubing dept. Prolly a good idea to get a few different sizes. The taller your spring, the shorter the pipe needs to be.

 

Do you think this will work for the stock coil springs?
(Sorry, this is a Japanese website...)
http://www.amazon.co.jp/toolsisland-...19131&sr=8-150

 

I am looking to buy one just like JunJun posted. Will it work?

 

So the 3/4 inch pipe fitting would slip into the bottom hole of the a-arm?

 

I would think those J hook ones would work well on most springs.

Yes the hole in the bottom of the stock A arms are decent size. Big enough to get a chain through it at least.

 

Anyone have pics of the tool they used at the factory?


The internal one works but it's such a death trap.. there really has to be a better way to do this.

 

The internal is waaay safer than external (at least my external). No matter how much I compress the spring, it will never slip.

Here is a pic of me compressing the spring w/o the 3/4" pipe. The spring is compressed enough to fit into the upper/lower pocket, BUT the shank sticks out too far for the spring to seat. This is where the pipe comes in, it keeps the shank from sticking out so far

 

Chuck, if you're having problems trying to get them in....Follow this to the letter, you'll get it. I fought my springs for nearly a year on and off, finally used this method, and it was a slam dunk 2 hour project start to finish including screwing around with no motor in the car nor a front clip.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...y-install.html

 

Thanks for the great thread.
But just one thing. They suggest using a 3 1/2" or 4 1/2" tube pipe to compress with an internal compressor, but it depends on the length of the threaded shaft of the compressor.
That is, if you have a longer shaft compressor, you need a longer tube pipe.

BTW, has anyone successfully put stock coil springs back in place without using a compressor?

 

Its a piece of cake with a crowbar. I find it a lot safer than a spring compressor, doesnt make me nearly as nervous. If you mess with it a minute you'll see what I mean.



It takes a little getting used to, but it's my go-to method to do it these days and I can get a spring hooked into the spring pocket and in place in less than a minute per side. Usually takes a few tries to get it just right but it's easy peasy. And these are slightly cut factory IROC springs, probably one of the stiffer/taller variants around. I did the same with these springs using this method BEFORE they were cut, too. The only tricky part is getting the end of the crow bar in the right spot so that you can get enough leverage and still pull it out when the spring is over the spring pocket.

If you have fancy aftermarket powder coated A-arms and you're afraid of scratching the bottoms of your springs, or just afraid of them falling and being scratched, this isnt going to be a good method. Not like a claw compressor is gentle on them, but whatever...

And yes, I screwed up this method quite a bit trying to get the hang of it, I have no concerns whatsoever about safety because even when things go wrong the spring just isnt compressed far enough for it to matter. It just falls harmlessly to the ground. If you managed to get a foot under it the only thing that would hurt you is just the weight of the spring falling. I think claw spring compressors are terrifying and I dont like handling them at all.

Everyone I suggest it to never seems to get it, though, I think Im just gonna have to make a youtube video the next time I have my suspension apart.

 

This is how I do it, much easier this way especially if you set the hooks so that thespring is bowed inboard, it simply pops in and done. The wooden block goes under the a arm

 

That's how i do mine, with the pipe on there. It always seems to twist inside the spring though. I've had it come loose a few times. Same compressor.


The other internal type with the flat base at the bottom was far worse.


I'll be trying again this spring since my car has sit un-level since i put in the new springs. Even indexed correctly it's 1" lower on one side.

 

I installed my fronts with no compressor.

Just a jack, many lowering springs will go in without a compressor.

 

This seems the best method to me.

 

That's the one I use(d)

 

I used the one twin_turbo posted. What a nightmare. 750 lbs springs, getting them compressed enough to even get into the pocket was a pain in the ****.

When I was done I realized I forgot the isolators

-- Joe

 

wouldn't be a pain in the *** if you just use an impact to tighten it down. I personally just use a large pry bar. In or out in less that a minute.

 

I used an impact to tighten it.

Have you tried prying in 750 lbs springs? I imagine the 300lbs lowering springs would almost fall in.

-- Joe

 

What impact were you using? My 1/2" Snap On MG725 has no problem with those kind of spring compressors.

Yes, I've done several sets of springs on third gens, ranging from stock to 800lb springs. I've never messed with drag springs so I wouldn't know how easy or difficult they'd be.

 

The gun compressed the spring as much as it could before bind, but the space between the pocket and the bottom of the k-member is still very narrow.

A compressor that would allow you to compress it and stick it into the k-member would be easier. The problem with the compressor I used is the spring ends up being basically bolted to the a-arm, so it's a pain in the *** to make the swing into the pocket.

The compressors with two sets of hook are better because you can compress the spring on the bench, put it up in place, then slowly expand it into the control arm.

-- Joe

 

I wish I had this thread 8 yrs ago when I was rebuilding my front end...there was some serious cussing going on that night! I taught the neighbors combinations of words they didn't know existed.

I never thought about using the pipe nipple, that would have made it easier.

I went out tonight and bought one, put it in tool box so I'll have it next time.

Thanks!

 

Its a piece of cake. All you gotta do is compress it enough to get the lowest coil above the spring pocket of a fully drooped A-arm. I did it with my factory IROC springs. I am not weak, but I am hardly a hoss of a man and I definitely dont consider it to be physically demanding, and theres a LOT of things I DO think are physically demanding on these cars. Putting in springs is not one of them. These springs would have to be twice as stiff as they are for it just to be physically strenuous, and more than that for it to be impractical.

 

The fully compressed spring was still too tall. The compressor block goes under the a-arm, so the spring ends up being 90* to the a-arm, so then when you rotate the a-arm up the spring hits the k-member.

The other style compressor with two sets of jaws allow you to compress the spring, stick it up in the k-member, then rotate the a-arm in place.

Using the block style compressor, I had to pry the spring into place which was a PITA.

I suspect the fully compressed MOOG 5662 springs are still longer than the lowering or stock 300lbs springs.

-- Joe