k-member advise?
#1
k-member advise?
im trying to decide on a new k-member for my car but i havnt decided on any specific brand so im just looking for some input on people wth experiance in that realm and oppinions. im looking for one that will hold up to road racing. kinda leaning towards spohn but im still very undicided. i kno everyone has different oppinions on that subject and some peolpe will swear by one brand and hate another and different people will have the opposit view. and i also kno alot of people will say if i was smart to just build my own and i eventuly plan on doing so but thats hard for me to do at the moment so ill haved to buy one. so anyone wth experiance please help me out?
#3
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From: Northeast CT
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: LSx
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: k-member advise?
UMI's piece is the only one I know of with a double main hoop design. Plus they now offer a RR version. I have the regular one and the peice is great. Fit no problem and there welds look top notch, very consistent. I picked up the k and a arm package on the thanksgiving day sale.
#5
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,788
Likes: 390
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
Re: k-member advise?
UMI just came out with a road race design. Looks very beefy. I just installed it and the A arms. Pretty happy with the fit and finish. No testing yet but i have no concerns. Its braced in all the right areas.
All the others should do equally well
All the others should do equally well
#6
Re: k-member advise?
Hello,
Thanks for the recommendations
We do offer what we feel is a very nice k-member set up. We have sold quite a few over the past 2 years with no complaints or issues. We addressed the fitment issues other brands where having. Under the oil pan we run a dual tube section for extra strength, we have been doing this on our 4th gen k-members since day one 7 years ago. We also made the k-member work with factory a-arms and we offer it in a road race version like mentioned above.
Below are three links, the first link is to our website. Part # 2401 is the standard k-member with stock engine mounts and pads for the coil springs. The others are for coil overs, LS engines, Road race ect. The second and third links are to a '85 Camaro we built that shows a ton of pictures of the k-member installed. They are both the same pictures, one link is to the Facebook album and the second is to the same pictures on our site.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=6_282
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1448642&type=3
https://www.umiperformance.com/news/?page_id=412
If you have any questions please ask and we will be glad to help!
Ryan
Thanks for the recommendations
We do offer what we feel is a very nice k-member set up. We have sold quite a few over the past 2 years with no complaints or issues. We addressed the fitment issues other brands where having. Under the oil pan we run a dual tube section for extra strength, we have been doing this on our 4th gen k-members since day one 7 years ago. We also made the k-member work with factory a-arms and we offer it in a road race version like mentioned above.
Below are three links, the first link is to our website. Part # 2401 is the standard k-member with stock engine mounts and pads for the coil springs. The others are for coil overs, LS engines, Road race ect. The second and third links are to a '85 Camaro we built that shows a ton of pictures of the k-member installed. They are both the same pictures, one link is to the Facebook album and the second is to the same pictures on our site.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=6_282
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1448642&type=3
https://www.umiperformance.com/news/?page_id=412
If you have any questions please ask and we will be glad to help!
Ryan
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#8
Supreme Member
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,025
Likes: 76
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: k-member advise?
I second the UMI piece. Good clearance for everything and customer service. I have been happy to very happy with it so far. There was another thread that I posted a couple pics of it in. You will never again be afraid of changing your motor mounts!
#9
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 42
From: Danville, IN
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 Bolt, 3.42
Re: k-member advise?
I have a spohn tubular k-member, If I was buying another one I would go with UMI or BMR especially for a road race application. The spohn k-members seem to be very inconsistant with fitment. My engine sat crooked, the passenger side was about 3/8in higher than the driver side. No amount of adjustment would make it level, I had to modify the mounts to make it right.
#10
Re: k-member advise?
Thanks for the feedback guys, we appreciate it.
We did a lot of research on this item before building it, we wanted to solve all the problems that are found with other brands.
For fitment, we have taken a stock k-member and built our jig around it. So you can take a stock k-member and it will fall on our jig and all holes line up perfect. For clearance we made sure it works with factory a-arms as well in case you decide to run those. We also add the triangle brace holes to the k-member for no extra charge. Some charge extra for this and others don't even have the option. Lastly, we built in bump stops.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
We did a lot of research on this item before building it, we wanted to solve all the problems that are found with other brands.
For fitment, we have taken a stock k-member and built our jig around it. So you can take a stock k-member and it will fall on our jig and all holes line up perfect. For clearance we made sure it works with factory a-arms as well in case you decide to run those. We also add the triangle brace holes to the k-member for no extra charge. Some charge extra for this and others don't even have the option. Lastly, we built in bump stops.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
#11
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: k-member advise?
Well seeing that Friday is going to be a nice day here I'm going to be tackling installing the K member and A arms. I'll take a few picture during the process.
#12
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: k-member advise?
Last edited by D&S 85 IROC; 03-29-2013 at 10:42 PM. Reason: missing pictures
#13
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
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From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#14
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
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From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#15
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
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From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#16
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#17
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#18
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#19
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
#20
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: k-member advise?
#21
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC
Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: k-member advise?
well as you can see I installed the new k member, it went it very easy no problems if fact it was a easy installation. Good job Spohn on a good product.
#22
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
If you hang around frrax.com (body road race) they stear away from tubular a arms and k members. In general, the cost,weight,strength don't really make since. Most k members will fail under these conditions. However the umi piece seems the most substantial. Also a arms, if you take stock arms and put del-a-lums they will perform very well. It's your money do what you wish. This is what I read from the "experts" guys who race every weekend in our cars. Heck. Look at big mods, he is running "stock" k member and a arms.
Now I'm not saying there is NO gain, just to me, not worth the money unless you need clearance or have the money to throw at it.
And this is not a knock at the craftsmanship of these manufacturers. I have seen the work and they are all pretty much top notch.
Now I'm not saying there is NO gain, just to me, not worth the money unless you need clearance or have the money to throw at it.
And this is not a knock at the craftsmanship of these manufacturers. I have seen the work and they are all pretty much top notch.
#23
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
Taken from frrax.com..
-member As far as road course or autocross usage you will be stuck with the stock k-member. The factory geometry is so good that there isn’t much to fix with an aftermarket k-member. K-members currently on the market are lightweight tubular pieces that aren’t as strong as the stock k-member and are prone to failure under our uses and sometimes even daily driving! The factory K-member is plenty strong, and by the time you get most tubular K-members gusseted and reinforced enough to stand the rigors of racing, they weigh almost as much as a factory unit. LG Motorsports built and released photos of a prototype 4th gen k-member suitable for autocross and road course duty, but it has never reached production. PA Racing produces a 4th gen k-member (not listed on their site) that they claim to have modified for road course usage, but there are still doubts about it in the community.
Again, this is BEFORE
umi released their product. And this includes 4th gen tech. It's your car, do what you want. And do research on several different sites
-member As far as road course or autocross usage you will be stuck with the stock k-member. The factory geometry is so good that there isn’t much to fix with an aftermarket k-member. K-members currently on the market are lightweight tubular pieces that aren’t as strong as the stock k-member and are prone to failure under our uses and sometimes even daily driving! The factory K-member is plenty strong, and by the time you get most tubular K-members gusseted and reinforced enough to stand the rigors of racing, they weigh almost as much as a factory unit. LG Motorsports built and released photos of a prototype 4th gen k-member suitable for autocross and road course duty, but it has never reached production. PA Racing produces a 4th gen k-member (not listed on their site) that they claim to have modified for road course usage, but there are still doubts about it in the community.
Again, this is BEFORE
umi released their product. And this includes 4th gen tech. It's your car, do what you want. And do research on several different sites
#24
Re: k-member advise?
thank you. and i dont have the money to just "throw around" so i changed my mind and just keep the stock k- member and weld up a new one somday thats a little stronger. im still thinking about spohns chromaly a-arms with solid rod ends so i can play with my geometry and such for tunability
#25
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
I have heard Many issues with the spohn and rubbing issues. Keep stockers and put del-a-lums in and go. If you wanna mess with alignments get adjustable strut mounts. Then if you want more, get taller ball joints. That's just my two cents
#26
Re: k-member advise?
ive heard of alot of issues with spohn too but from what i have heard they seem to put the front wheels either to the forward or back of the car so they rub. i already have no inner fender wells and if they still rub ill get a different offset spacer for the rod ends if that makes sence at all so its not that hard to deal with even if the arms are messed up. im not that set on them yet but just a possability for now until i do somthing totaly different. i already have umi caster/camber strut mounts but i want a ittle more tuning ability plus the solid rod ends have no deflection or bind. how are the del-a-lums for that?
#27
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
I'm 99 percent sure they are a form of solid bushings. They replace the rubber with a spherical ball with delren bushings. Take care of deflection. Do a search. Should find them easy. A lot less expensive too.
Even quality rod ends make noise after awhile. On a daily, I'm not sure I would use on this application. Several people have been very pleased with del-a-lum. This is an application also where they are just moving up and down. This is one of the few areas where poly would be OK I would still use something else though. Let me do a quick search and see if I can find a link for you. I would hate to spend big money n something just to modify it to fit correctly
Even quality rod ends make noise after awhile. On a daily, I'm not sure I would use on this application. Several people have been very pleased with del-a-lum. This is an application also where they are just moving up and down. This is one of the few areas where poly would be OK I would still use something else though. Let me do a quick search and see if I can find a link for you. I would hate to spend big money n something just to modify it to fit correctly
#30
Re: k-member advise?
thank you. and i dont have the money to just "throw around" so i changed my mind and just keep the stock k- member and weld up a new one somday thats a little stronger. im still thinking about spohns chromaly a-arms with solid rod ends so i can play with my geometry and such for tunability
I would never change one to a tubular unit unless it was for a drag race only car that needs light weight on the nose.
#35
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,118
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From: Houston, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: SuperRam 350
Transmission: Pro Built S/S TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: k-member advise?
The del-alum are delrin wrapped aluminum. Very strong pieces that should last for a lonnnnng time. No worries with racing.
#36
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 932
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
Sorry I was in a hurry and didn't bother to choose them in the drop down menu. I 2nd the whole drop in and don't worry about them. Designed for what you are looking for
#38
Supreme Member
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,025
Likes: 76
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: k-member advise?
You always say your some professional Ferrari driver Nascar crew chief of some super truck so fine I will respect your opinion, but what roads do you drive on, or what do you hit? I hear that line often and I just don't accept that as the reason for not purchasing one.
#39
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 932
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
Not talking to me but I was once driving home after work driving my wrx and cut a line a little too much and ended up dropping into an 8inch or so dropoff. Bent two rims and possibly broke wheel bearing and ball joint(I say possibly because I replaced bearing but still doesn't feel right) now did I mean to do this? No, the fact is, things happen. Factory stuff is made to "survive" these things. The way I see it. Even if a very good weld is on a piece of metal, that weld or close to it seems to break. Something I would not want on my car. This is one reason why I see some very high end cars use billet instead of tubular
#40
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 932
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From: oklahoma
Car: 02wrx/88 rs
Engine: 2.0L turbo/nothing yet!
Transmission: 4eat/waiting on a t56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: k-member advise?
Also back reading posts, if an a arm moves wheels forward or backwards, on theory it would mess up your caster angle and the range you can adjust as well.
#41
Re: k-member advise?
I bent a 3" exhaust pipe on my lower truck once hiting one, and blew off my entire front splitter on another incident which cost me about $400- a joyful afternoon
#42
Re: k-member advise?
First and foremost you never want to adjust it enough to where the coilspring misaligns in the spring can and rubs.
Secondly, you can in fact set the a-arm fornward in position a little, as well as outward a little to gain positive caster and negative camber- however you are messing with tierod geometry and will have to bump the car to make sure you are not getting different archs in articulation- meaning the distance of the tierod now comes forward and thus the angle cuases you to have to lengthen it in static form. Then as it comes up the A-arm distance shortens as the tierod lengthens and you get massive bumpsteer if not corrected with bumpsteer shims.
you have a wider track issues that increase spring leverage- not real important, but a mute issue
you have fender issues of possible tire contact with the inner fender- this also happens with simply adding wider front wheels and increasing the scrub radius- a very common mistake on 3rd gens or any car for that matter, wider is not necessarily better (it is for a little while until they wear out faster because they drag across the ground when turning tigher corners)
In other words, know what you are doing if you plan to fudge A-arm link distances with rodend mounts.
#43
Re: k-member advise?
well i have baers bumsteer kit so i can adjust the angle of my tierod so thats not an issue. but as you said with bringing the arms farther out is partialy what i was considering so i can run more negative camber without hitting my master cylinder with the strut mounts. and as far as the tries rubbing the fender i have a bit of room to bring them out farther with the wheels i have, plus i dont have alot of suspension travel with the springs i have
#50
Re: k-member advise?
These are what I use and recommend.
Afco low friction balljoints.
it is a 1/2" longer stud than stock and will put your A-arm angle in a more favorable position to maintain camber gain and the suspension compresses.
It will also lower your car exactly 1/2" on the front. You will need a bumpsteer kit to correct the angle of the tierod with the angle of the control arm(so to speak in laymans terms- you are changing the archs between the tierod and the a-arm, so the tierod also needs to be changed to match the geometry arch in parallel height so as not to get toe gains or losses through suspension travel.
The part # on Summitracing is AFC-20038-4LF if you wan tto order through them- otherwise, here is a link to Speedway Motors:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-2...ong,58122.html
Afco low friction balljoints.
it is a 1/2" longer stud than stock and will put your A-arm angle in a more favorable position to maintain camber gain and the suspension compresses.
It will also lower your car exactly 1/2" on the front. You will need a bumpsteer kit to correct the angle of the tierod with the angle of the control arm(so to speak in laymans terms- you are changing the archs between the tierod and the a-arm, so the tierod also needs to be changed to match the geometry arch in parallel height so as not to get toe gains or losses through suspension travel.
The part # on Summitracing is AFC-20038-4LF if you wan tto order through them- otherwise, here is a link to Speedway Motors:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-2...ong,58122.html