School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: V8 TPI
Transmission: Auto
School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
I will admit I'm not a real DIY mechanic..but I do want to fix my car up and make it something special. What do I need to know in order to choose the right set-up for my car? Should I keep it stock..or would it handle better with some after market mods? I'd like to take the car to events and put it through it's paces...not just be pretty sitting at a car show. It has muscle and it should be flexed.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Washington State
Car: 1983 BB 1995 Z28 Camaro's
Engine: 454-350
Transmission: TH350-4l60e
Axle/Gears: 373 posi-Stock
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
First off you could get a factory service manual specific to the year of car you have. You will need tools and a floor jack and jack stands.
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: V8 TPI
Transmission: Auto
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
Yeah.. I am planning on that..but in the meantime.. I am looking for knowledge about factory vs. modded suspension. Should a car like this be modded? What kinds of mods are best for performance/handling?
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Car: 1991 firebird
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Tubular control arms, tubular panhard bar , tubular torque arm , front control arms , wonder bar , strut tower brace , founders strut mounts , tubular K member , control arm relocation brackets if it has been lowered , that should keep u and ur wallet busy for awhile
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From: Houston, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
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Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
Good struts and shocks are about 80% of the handling. The other 20% is everything else combined.
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From: MN
Car: 85 SC, 86 Berlinetta
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Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
Your question can really open up a can of worms. A couple of factors depend on what kind of power you're putting to the ground and/or if you are going to lower it.
You may want to go to after-market if you've improved the engine and drive train to the point of twisting the suspension components. I don't really have a figure for you but I'll throw out something like 300 hp/trq for the heck of it.
You may also want to go after-market if you lower it. The reason for this is that the dimensions of the suspension components may start to move the suspension around and the adjust-ability of the after-market components can bring things back in line. There are even strut mounts that allow more room for the shocks to move as they should. There is also a thread on using different lower arm ball joints for lowered cars.
That said IMO some of the after-market parts do not allow the suspension to move the same as stock so you may want to look into different options if you do go after-market.
IMO, your best option if you're stock or near stock is to look into higher performance GM parts that may be available relatively cheap from a local junkyard. Some of the stock options include: a wonder bar, 34mm or 36mm front sway bars (I usually get both front and rear together though), stiffer springs, 16” F-body rims, aluminum drive shaft, Corvette rims, and even brake upgrades. Could also pick up a higher ratio steering box and other parts depending on what you're starting out with. That may depend on what performance parts you already have, checking your RPO codes will help.
Also, new bushings, strut mounts, ball joints, brake hoses and other wear parts people often overlook. Buy only MOOG or TRW and make sure to compare them to stock components you are replacing. Manufacturers often outsource and there is sometimes an obvious difference.
After-market I would only suggest: subframe connectors (prefer UMI for these) and either Koni or Bilstein shocks, Monroe Sensa-trac if those are to expensive. I wouldn't look at anything else until you learn more about it and make a decision on what you want/need and your budget. I strongly suggest planning it out (including engine & drivetrain) so that you can determine what sacrifices you want or need to make and the overall amount you want to invest. Write it down and add it up because you won't get very much of it back when you sell the car unless you part it out. These cars have a lot of capability, but you can also end up with a crappy ride as well.
Along with picking up a factory manual (Helms <Click), yes it is worth it. Can also check Ebay for it.
I also suggest picking up this book specifically to answer your questions.
You may want to go to after-market if you've improved the engine and drive train to the point of twisting the suspension components. I don't really have a figure for you but I'll throw out something like 300 hp/trq for the heck of it.
You may also want to go after-market if you lower it. The reason for this is that the dimensions of the suspension components may start to move the suspension around and the adjust-ability of the after-market components can bring things back in line. There are even strut mounts that allow more room for the shocks to move as they should. There is also a thread on using different lower arm ball joints for lowered cars.
That said IMO some of the after-market parts do not allow the suspension to move the same as stock so you may want to look into different options if you do go after-market.
IMO, your best option if you're stock or near stock is to look into higher performance GM parts that may be available relatively cheap from a local junkyard. Some of the stock options include: a wonder bar, 34mm or 36mm front sway bars (I usually get both front and rear together though), stiffer springs, 16” F-body rims, aluminum drive shaft, Corvette rims, and even brake upgrades. Could also pick up a higher ratio steering box and other parts depending on what you're starting out with. That may depend on what performance parts you already have, checking your RPO codes will help.
Also, new bushings, strut mounts, ball joints, brake hoses and other wear parts people often overlook. Buy only MOOG or TRW and make sure to compare them to stock components you are replacing. Manufacturers often outsource and there is sometimes an obvious difference.
After-market I would only suggest: subframe connectors (prefer UMI for these) and either Koni or Bilstein shocks, Monroe Sensa-trac if those are to expensive. I wouldn't look at anything else until you learn more about it and make a decision on what you want/need and your budget. I strongly suggest planning it out (including engine & drivetrain) so that you can determine what sacrifices you want or need to make and the overall amount you want to invest. Write it down and add it up because you won't get very much of it back when you sell the car unless you part it out. These cars have a lot of capability, but you can also end up with a crappy ride as well.
Along with picking up a factory manual (Helms <Click), yes it is worth it. Can also check Ebay for it.
I also suggest picking up this book specifically to answer your questions.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,807
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
Before you start tossing money are shiny parts that don't really do much, start with the basics. Make sure the steering linkages and fro t ballpoint are in good working order. Larger and wider wheels and tires make a big difference and at the same time so do a good set of shocks and struts. If you have a chunk of money to dedicate to the car start with these things and buy good quality stuff. Bilstein or Koni shocks and struts will be the best bang for th buck but come at a price. As do wheels and tires. 17x9.5 is a Good all round size for the car and will be able to be rotated.
New aftermarket strut mounts will help too since the originals are probably pretty worn at this point and new stock ones are not the best quality.
The car will benefit to a set of subframe connectors too
After that you will have a good working car and then after some more research make the decision as to wether the shiny suspension parts are worth you money.
New aftermarket strut mounts will help too since the originals are probably pretty worn at this point and new stock ones are not the best quality.
The car will benefit to a set of subframe connectors too
After that you will have a good working car and then after some more research make the decision as to wether the shiny suspension parts are worth you money.
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From: Miami, FL
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Australian 9 bolt
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
I have a question, maybe the op is curious as well...are the subframe connectors as important as people say, 300-350 doesn't seem like body damaging power to me. I always thought it was like header tape...its really for race cars. I mean I'm not heatin my tires up to launch from a red light you know....
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,807
Likes: 108
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
These cars flex a lot. Most hardtop cars will have stress cracks at the b pillar and top of the window. T-topcars will crack the ground effects at the bottom of the fro t door jam. Subframe are a great idea
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: V8 TPI
Transmission: Auto
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
I don't plan to lower the car..I like the stock height. I will look into the steering and make sure everthing is corrected first..b/c it does seem to have a bit of play. Most likely I will go with beefing up the stock suspension with better/newer parts..like was mentioned. Already have wide tires on the car. As far as hp is concerned..mostly will be just doing what I can to get the most out of the car as-is. I'm not looking to be the fastest ..just have fun. So there is a limit on how much I am willing to spend. lol
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From: columbia s.c.
Car: camaro84.87iroc,91vert
Engine: Lt1, 383tpi,350tbi
Transmission: t56,T5,T5
Axle/Gears: 4thgenunknown,373,323?
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
I don't plan to lower the car..I like the stock height. I will look into the steering and make sure everthing is corrected first..b/c it does seem to have a bit of play. Most likely I will go with beefing up the stock suspension with better/newer parts..like was mentioned. Already have wide tires on the car. As far as hp is concerned..mostly will be just doing what I can to get the most out of the car as-is. I'm not looking to be the fastest ..just have fun. So there is a limit on how much I am willing to spend. lol
Ha,you think there is a limit!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: V8 TPI
Transmission: Auto
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Posts: 228
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From: North Carolina
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-56 w/hurst short throw
Axle/Gears: unknown
Re: School me on suspensions '86 Firebird
Do you want better handling for autocross and road racing? Or do you want better handling for the street? Either way, you need to make sure some of the basics in good working order like ball joints and tie rod ends. The steering box is one item you need to check too since these cars are old.
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