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Problem replacing tie rods

Old 07-16-2018, 07:24 PM
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Problem replacing tie rods

In need of some urgent help, kinda need to get the car back on the ground tonight.


I replaced my centre link, idler arm and inner/outer tie roads as one peice.


Everything came off ok, but i cannot get the outer tie rods into the knucke, they are shorter than the old ones that came off and when you fit the ball joint up through the spindle it only barely sticks out the top, I can't get the castle nuts on enough to start tightening them to presumaby pull them in, i've tried using a clamp and I can't get them in any further. It's the first time i've attempted this job, am I missing something? They barely stick out the top of the knuckle more than 3mm.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:42 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

Sounds like you have defective parts or the wrong parts. They should slide right in, the only "pulling" the nut does is just enough to get the tapers to swedge together.

By chance, have you tried flipping the tie rods and using the inner on the outer?
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:42 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

That doesn't sound right.

Any idea what's keeping them from going in further? Diameter of shaft vs hole (hehehe), grease boot in the way, ???

Whatever you do, don't alter anything to a point that you can't take it back to CT or wherever, if it turns out they gave you the wrong parts.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:02 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

Ok, so I went back outside and had another look, so as 86TA has said, it seems the tie roads are correct but back to front. If I swap them round, they fit fine, however that means the castellated nut and stud with hole are on the centre link and not the wheel end. Is this not a safety issue? If that nylock backs off the steering drops out. This has to be a mistake in manufacturing?
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:05 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

I'm thinking torque the nylock down then add a 2nd nut on top for safety? Will that suffice?
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:09 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

What brand are they?

Sounds like they were made wrong. While I feel the locking nut will be just fine on either end, it is not correct.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:11 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

I don't have a clue tbh, I just bought a whole front end bundle, including ball joints, sway bar links and bearings, the part numbers on the bags and on the purchase order for the inner and outer rods match with ES2227RL INNER TIE ROD END 2 REQUIRED
ES2226RL OUTER TIE ROD END 2 REQUIRED
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:53 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

Those numbers come up as Moog, so I'm surprised you are having problems with them.

Do you have a drill? You could install them backwards and drill a hole for the cotter pin on the outers
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:13 PM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

I've assembled it all now and lowered it, didn't have time to go drilling the studs and tbh not sure I have the stuff to be able to get a drill square through the middle of a threaded stud.


I torqued the nylocks up to 40ft/lbs and when I get a chance i'll stick a locknut above it too, i'm sure that'll do.


I also noticed that the centre link doesn't have the "machined flat" at each end it's supposed to have to measure the height on each side. Luckily I marked the idler arm and put it back where it was and have measured as best I can and it seems pretty level. I'll get it aligned once i've done the wheel bearings and ball joints.


Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-17-2018, 09:12 AM
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Re: Problem replacing tie rods

Something sounds very wrong to me! I just put on a set of Moog and TRW tie rod ends and Spohn sleeves and had no issues putting them back in. The thing that really bothers me is that there should be a castellated nut on all tie rod ends no matter whether they're inner or outer. I'm really thinking that you got the wrong set of tie rod ends (whichever 1 had the nylon lock nut). I don't think i've ever seen that used for a tie rod end in the 20+ years that i've worked on cars. I'm really surprised that Moog would do that!! You may have gotten a store name brand that uses Moog's part numbering. Either way, I wouldn't feel comfortable at all with nylon lock nuts on as opposed to the castellated nut and cotter pin. Just my $.02.
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