I've got an 84 z28 in great condition with a mild/mid 355 and 295/50/15s on the back. My son insists"they don't hook up well enough to need frame connectors" (he's got something to say about every car I drive lol) Do you think I should go with frame connectors and if so what brand and style? I've been looking at so bolt ins from Speedway that I would be welding in as well once spring comes and I can get it on a lift. Btw it's a t top. Thanks

 

Sub frame connectors will make a big difference in body stiffness. The body on third gens twists a lot and putting these in will eliminate that. I personally will be getting UMI weld in connectors. It has nothing to do with the car hooking up it's all about stiffening the body.

 

SFC's should be the first thing done to these cars. It will improve how the car feels and responds dramatically.

 

Weld in SFCs (I use the Spohn) and the UMI LCA relocators. It'll hook up if your diff is stiff..

 

It's true that third gen f bodies flex, the more power you have the more they flex. It is true that sfc can help minimize this, but won't eliminate it. Depending on how serious you are with the car, you can decrease this or eliminate it, but if you want the latter you need a whole lot more than sfc's. To eliminate it you need to add torsional connecting members that connect one side of the car to the other diagonally.

 

SFC's are a must.

 

SFCs go beyond hooking up, but they improve that along with a multitude of other things. I'd consider them a must-have on T-top cars, and I'd expect the benefit to be greatest on earlier cars simply because in my personal experience, later cars and hard top cars tend to have less flexy flyer characteristics. On a late hardtop it'd be harder to feel a huge improvement. Still, it's a win-win. Stick with welded in, and consider the routing and ground clearance. Alstons are nice, but they do cost a bit of ground clearance, and they can come very close to the exhaust on the passenger's side, they can also conflict with crossmember mounting with T56 swaps, etc. Other brands may interfere with other equipment and when dealing with multiple aftermarket parts they can conflict with each other.

 

UMI 2400's work nicely on these cars. They do require a little bit of Mig welding up front but the resulting stiffness is worth it.

UMI 2400 catalog link