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Bit of background - I converted my 91 Camaro from automatic to manual a few years ago by swapping in a T5. Drove it for a bit, then tore the car down to the bare unibody, did some cleaning/rust repair/paint, and I'm building the car back up with an L31/T56 combo. When I installed the T5 I knew leaving the torque arm attached to the tailhousing was a bad idea, so I bought a relocation kit from UMI (part number UMI 2216).
Now that I've got a T56, that UMI 2216 kit won't work. I could pack up the UMI 2216 and try to sell it, but between it being used and the cost of shipping on something that large and heavy, I'd be lucky to pull in $200 (and I doubt anyone's gonna drive out here to pick it up, especially since this keeps happening). My next thought was to just swap the crossmembers and keep the TA, but UMI doesn't make a T56 crossmember with a torque arm relocation mount. Or at least I haven't been able to find one. Also thought about modifying the existing UMI 2216 crossmember, but because of the way it's built I'd basically have to redesign from scratch. Don't think my skills are quite up to that.
That leaves me looking at the (potentially crazy) possibility of using a crossmember from a different manufacturer, and modifying the TA to fit. I came across the BMR-TCC016, which looks like it might be a good candidate. Thinking I can cut the bushing portion off the UMI torque arm and maybe extend it a bit (so it matches the design of the BMR-TA001, basically), then use the bushing from the BMR-TA001. Obviously there are some measurements I need to confirm before committing to this approach, but I don't see any inherent problems. I'd also sell the T5 crossmember from the UMI 2216 kit to make a little money back.
Am I way out of line here? I know I could just go buy the SP-315 for $450+ (or both BMR pieces for $550+), eat my losses on the UMI piece, and be on my way. But that seems sort of defeatist. I'd also be open to suggestions if anyone knows of a T56 crossmember with a relocation mount which would work with the UMI TA. Or if folks just want to let me know I'm an idiot that's fine too!
Yeah, it's pretty much just a matter of matching torque arm length to where the front mount lands. I ended up with a non-standard length too. I re-used the UMI bracket and hardware at the axle side and had a local speed shop make a new torque arm with the correct reach. It was surprisingly affordable. Around $200 if my memory serves me. The shop put my car on a lift and jacked the axle up to ride height, then took measurements in the car so everything was right.
Yeah, it's pretty much just a matter of matching torque arm length to where the front mount lands. I ended up with a non-standard length too. I re-used the UMI bracket and hardware at the axle side and had a local speed shop make a new torque arm with the correct reach. It was surprisingly affordable. Around $200 if my memory serves me. The shop put my car on a lift and jacked the axle up to ride height, then took measurements in the car so everything was right.
Thank you, this is exactly the feedback I was looking for! Doesn't seem much more complicated than getting the length right but I was concerned I might be overlooking something.
I'd probably try to re-work the crossmember to fit the t-56. Then make or buy a crossbrace like BMR uses on the trac-pack. I've seen a few creative guys make the crossbrace removeable. https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...395&superpro=0
Those track packs with the exhaust loop will kill ground clearance in the middle of the car which is the worst possible spot to have low ground clearance. My UMI version was unlivable on the street. Had to cut it out and start over with my own torque arm and mount.
FWIW I think someone with the proper setup and skills could probably rework the existing crossmember to work with a T56, but it would be a significant undertaking (at least from my perspective). Could pay someone to do it of course, but that's 4 hours of drive time minimum for me, plus the cost of the work. Lengthening the TA would be a lot easier and quicker.
I know I'm reviving an old thread, but I thought folks might like to see how I resolved this. I essentially copied the design of the mounting bracket that came with the crossmember, but made it wider to accommodate the bushing on the end of the torque arm. I also added a bolt which mounts to the torque arm bushing. I am not a professional fabricator by any means, but I'm pretty happy with the end result:
Best part is that this didn't require cutting up either the original torque arm or the new crossmember. It also mounts to the crossmember just like the original bracket, so I can move the bracket up and down to adjust pinion angle (which is also adjustable on the torque arm itself). Clearances are all good, I can still reach the bushing's grease fitting, and there's no interference with the drive shaft or tailhousing. Here's a test fit, sorry the picture quality isn't great:
If anyone has suggestions or input I'd be glad to hear it!
04-28-2021, 05:44 PM
