Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Snapped Panhard Rod TWICE

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Old Jan 21, 2002 | 10:30 PM
  #1  
Bawls's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Snapped Panhard Rod TWICE

Im so good I was able to snap my panhard rod into three pieces!

Anyway, now its broke, and the car isnt leaving the garage untill I beef her up.

What do you guys suggest, I was considering Spohn.. dunno.. Throw me some options here.
Attached Thumbnails Snapped Panhard Rod TWICE-z28-038.jpg  
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Old Jan 21, 2002 | 10:37 PM
  #2  
My90Iroc's Avatar
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From: E. Patchogue, NY
Car: '90 Iroc
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 spd
How the F do you snap your panhard rod????

Yeah, check out Spohn
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Old Jan 21, 2002 | 11:05 PM
  #3  
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Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
My stock panhard was bent, so I got a Spohn adjustable w/ both poly ends. If you do a lot of racing and drive on the street, I'd go w/ the poly/spherical combo. If all racing, go w/ both spherical ends.
I like the Spohn panhard, good quality/price. Install is VERY easy and takes just about 5 minutes, but that will be the same no matter which one you get.
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Old Jan 21, 2002 | 11:17 PM
  #4  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Only a $15 diff... Its a "daily driver" as well as a car Im buidling up.. So if its only a $15 diff.. whats the diffrence besides price?

EDIT: Guess it would help if I read the descriptions..
Well so the:

Panhard Bar - Adjustable Spherical Rod Ended $140.00 -

The high quality, two-piece, teflon lined spherical rod ends provide for "bind-free" handling performance. The solid connections will substantially increase road noise.

and...

Panhard Bar - Adjustable Spherical/Poly Combo $125.00

The high quality, two-piece, teflon lined spherical rod end provides for "bind-free" handling performance. The poly bushed end is mounted onto the chassis (floor) mount to absorb road noise. This combo ended Panhard Bar will still wipe out most bind, yet keep the noise level bearable on a street driven car.

Well I dynamat'd the rear end, so road noise should be okay. I'd like to get the best.

Last edited by Bawls; Jan 21, 2002 at 11:23 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2002 | 11:40 PM
  #5  
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From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
The difference is noise on a daily driver. I have the poly/spherical LCA's on my car, and they are kind of loud. So I got the poly on both ends for the panhad bar. I'm mainly concerned with straight line perfrmance though.
The spherical ends are loud on the street, but give you a "bind-free" suspension, like it says. Bind-free=good. The poly/sphercial combo is a compromise, it provides you with an almost bind-free suspension, and keeps the noise down a bit. If you don't mind some noise, get the poly/spherical combo, if you don't like much noise, then get the poly on both sides. I'd stay away from the spherical ends on both sides for a street car, it WILL be loud.
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Old Jan 22, 2002 | 04:16 AM
  #6  
Jza's Avatar
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Yeah, Dynamat isn't going to help with noise transmitted directly through solid joints.
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Old Jan 22, 2002 | 08:39 AM
  #7  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
yea, very true. Thanks.
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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 11:09 AM
  #8  
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From: E. Patchogue, NY
Car: '90 Iroc
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 spd
When you guys say "noise" what are you talking about? What does it sound like?
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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 01:57 PM
  #9  
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From: Warner Robins, Ga
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I'm curious as well, what does the sound...sound like.
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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 04:48 PM
  #10  
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From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Kinda a loud clunky noise.
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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 05:21 PM
  #11  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Yea I went ahead with the Hotchkis rear susp. package. only $319 from jegs.com.
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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 07:19 PM
  #12  
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how on earth did you do that?

How on earth do you snap a panhard rod??? I've seen em bend. Shoot, mine was bent on my firebird, but how does one accomplish the feat of snapping one in three pieces? Did this happen while you were driving?
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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 08:09 PM
  #13  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
**** happens
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Old Jan 24, 2002 | 04:40 AM
  #14  
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From: Hawaii
Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
HOW IN THE ****ING HELL DO YOU SNAP A DAMN PANHARD ROD!!!? I'm confused like a ***** ****a! I have never seen that happen before nor heard of that. damn....what do you do? drag race? grip style? etc
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Old Jan 24, 2002 | 04:46 AM
  #15  
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
The only way I could imagine you broke it is if you did a huge air jump and landed slightly sideways. This would put enough stress on the panhard to possibly break it if it's been bent before the jump. I can't imagine it breaking into 2 pieces though, that's odd and not usually a property of steel. I think you might have done something stupid with the car not moving! but that's just my intuition.
Please explain how the bar broke and if you were driving how you kept it on the road. The rear would sway back and forth so much that the LCAs would have either broken off OR bent your mounting holes so bad that the car is just a waste of time. Again, my proof that makes me think you didn't do this while driving!
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Old Jan 24, 2002 | 07:39 AM
  #16  
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From: Nicholasville,KY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 415ci LS3
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.89
Originally posted by JPrevost
The only way I could imagine you broke it is if you did a huge air jump
lol I read this post last night and thought the same thing.I just couldn't get "The dukes of Hazard" out of my mind......
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Old Jan 24, 2002 | 02:38 PM
  #17  
chevyboy07 91's Avatar
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From: down by the river
rule #1...do not jack car up from panhard rod
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Old Jan 27, 2002 | 04:42 PM
  #18  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
No. I hit a patch of ice lost control and hit a median. Im towing her into a body shop to get some frame work done.
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Old Jan 30, 2002 | 11:13 PM
  #19  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Well good news, i found out the frame is okay, its just the lca's that need, well, replaced. what happend was the previous owner got hit ont he driver's side a while back, and cosmetic damage was taken care of. So now the spohn poly/spher. lcas spohn adj. poly/spher. panhard... damn Steve, I bet you are just sitting back smiling ...watching your bank accounts get larger. Ive seen how many people are all about your products. nice work man.
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 10:15 AM
  #20  
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From: www.thirdgentech.com
Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
How many donuts did it take to snap the PHR?

Sheeeeeezussss......
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Old Jan 31, 2002 | 11:12 AM
  #21  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Is it that hard to read the posts, or were you just trying to be funny?
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:12 PM
  #22  
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From: Graham, WA
Car: 86' TA
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
I know this is a old thread but I thought I should add a lil info since everyone seems so amazed about snapping a panhard rod..... Mine broke yesterday on the way to the store I was doing a fat power brake and then when I went through the intersection I noticed it was real loose in the back end. Then when I pulled into the parking lot around the corner I could feel the whole rear end sway. So I look underneath and the panhard is broke abotu dead center into 2 pieces not even bent at all or anything just broke clean
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #23  
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
I have double heim end panhard, and double heim end LCA's on my daily driver.


The noise from a double heim panhard is not bad at all.

the noise from double heim lca's is a bitch. Every rock, crack, seam, railroad track, you feel it as well as a damn nice "thump, thump thump".


What is it with people hitting curbs in there f-bodys lately? this is I think the 3rd in a month.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 08:33 PM
  #24  
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From: Graham, WA
Car: 86' TA
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
lol not third in a month this post is way old, mine broke just from doing a power brake. someone said it would have broke ur lca's blah blah blah but ive put about 20 miles on my car so far with the panhard in 2 pieces and it just sways back and forth every so often and feels real loose but thats it
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #25  
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From: Nicholasville,KY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 415ci LS3
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.89
Actually the exhuast pipe by itself gets pretty hot, and at 20 years of heating and then cooling constantly it could hypothetically weaken the metal in that area. Especially on models that came with a 3" pipe which would put it closer to the panhard. but I doubt it caused the problem............jt
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 05:08 PM
  #26  
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
My guess is it that it was rusted out. After a long drive, put your hand on the panhard bar. Its only warm. The track bar brace above the panhard bar would be warmer as it is closer to the pipe. Plus no cars from the factory came with 3in. 2.75 was max.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:25 AM
  #27  
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From: Wisconsin
Car: 1992 Z28 Camaro w/70k
Engine: 427 w/4" Mufflex Exhaust
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.10:1
On the subject of Panhard Rods.....

I have purchased a Hotchkis Adjustabel Panhard rod last year, but I just haven't put it on yet. I thought this would help my problem....I have P275 40series R17 Drag radials on and when I accelerate fast around a corner, the tire rubs on the inner well and makes a loud obnoxious noise. Not to mention wears the tire and inner wheel well. Would this Panhard Rod keep the rear tires more stable and less likely to rub? Thanks.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:10 AM
  #28  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Thunderfest
I realise this post is very old-

I just want to elaborate on how I think this happened to the guy that posted the picture up top.

My best guess is whoever did some exhaust work on this car years ago heated the panhard right next to the exhaust routing and burned all the coating off it leaving raw exposed metal to corrode in those two areas. After years of dring in bad weather conditions this panhard snapped from metal fatigue due to severe corrosin in these two spots when the car impacted the median rather than it bending.

interesting theory and all, but im going to go with the "they all fuggin bend there when you hit a curb" theory... afterall.... they all bend there when you slide sideways into a curb. on both 3rd and 4thgens.


plus, i know that rust isnt the issue since cars dont rust where i live.
the south is a magical place where 20 year old shock bolts come off with a ratchet without penetrating lube, and factory exhausts still look like new.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 07:48 AM
  #29  
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From: Abilene, TX
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Snapped my stock Panhard rod Saturday night. I noticed it was bent last week when I pulled my driveshaft. She finally went, about 8" from the end that ties to the axle. No accidents, racing or anything like that. I felt the rear sway back and forth on the highway, I exited and hit the turnaround and she started humming really loud and clanking. Wicked!


Last edited by pmpn; Jul 3, 2006 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 07:54 AM
  #30  
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From: Old Bridge, NJ
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 SuperRam
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3:23 Posi
Go wtih UMI performance. They make a nice product and at a excellent price.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #31  
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
Originally Posted by DerekKraese
Go wtih UMI performance. They make a nice product and at a excellent price.
Poly/Rod combo for my UMI stuff
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