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I really like the way the new QA1 SFCs look, and I'm doing crazy mental gymnastics on whether or not I should pick them up. They look very substantial and are probably the best bolt-in SFCs that we've ever had available for these cars.
Has anyone had the chance to try these yet? I've liked every QA1 product I've used for my other car, but I've never used any of their F-body stuff.
I've already got a set of UMI weld-in SFCs I've been procrastinating getting installed for years, still in their box leaning against the garage wall where they're not much use. If I didn't already own that set, picking up QA1's would be a no-brainer.
I'm mostly just curious to see what TGO thinks of these new SFC offerings. Here are some images from the installation manual .pdf, their attachment points look very good.
Thos look nice, but pretty pricey. I have the old Southside Machine connectors on my car and I added the pieces that go to the front subframe section. Mine are all welded in and have been in for over 25 years.,
i think they look great and would likely use them on a next build, i would though likely add some welding on them as well as the bolts especially on the connections towards the front
i think they look great and would likely use them on a next build, i would though likely add some welding on them as well as the bolts especially on the connections towards the front
I have to agree with you, I feel that while the connection at the rear and by the transmission crossmember look very substantial, the front connection only being 1 bolt on each side doesn't. And with how large the contact point is on the passenger side, it's almost like it should be welded on.
I love that we have multiple options, but by the time you buy them and convert to their LCA's you could have the DSE units. The install is more involved but they are the ultimate subframe connector for these cars. I'm my opinion you either buy a simple bolt on setup for budget reasons, or you commit to the DSE units.
I love that we have multiple options, but by the time you buy them and convert to their LCA's you could have the DSE units. The install is more involved but they are the ultimate subframe connector for these cars. I'm my opinion you either buy a simple bolt on setup for budget reasons, or you commit to the DSE units.
I agree that DSE's are the ultimate choice, but the install is insane. Not everyone (certainly not me!) has the welding skill or equipment to install them, where it's a lot simpler to flux core or mig in UMI or BMR's and still have a noticeable improvement over a factory car. I definitely think if you're already doing some kind of fabrication work to the car like replacing floors, DSE's are the way to go, but they are a bit overkill for a street car.
I think the biggest issue with QA1's are the price. $600 for what is essentially a bolt-in clone of UMI's unit (which are already too expensive at $430, when they were $300 only 3 years ago) that require QA1's $480 control arms is a lot, especially since I think the kind of owners that would benefit from having them the most are street cars that won't benefit from QA1's adjustable trailing arms at all.
I wonder if they would be compatible with any off the shelf tubular control arm? The only reason I can see why it wouldn't work with a factory stamped control arm is due to the extra metal around the bushing area, which is greatly reduced with pretty much every tubular trailing arm currently offered.
I feel like I should mention the best thing to come out of QA1's new lineup of suspension components for our 3rd gens is the fact that there is still enough interest in our cars for aftermarket support. A lot of companies have dropped out in the last decade or so, and it's really nice seeing new products available. Variety is the spice of life! These discussions and seeing people's differing opinions are what make forums great.
My car was the one used for scanning and fitting prototype and first-run products from the new line. The subframe connectors are great. They were designed to be bolt in but could easily be welded as well. With control arms the kit can get expensive but there is also no welding required if that's something you're searching for.
