I’m using this car as a cruiser, just trying to reinforce it a bit anddecrease some of the sloppy chassis characteristics and cut back on some rattling.

From everything that I’m seeing, the jegs subframe connectors don’t actually connect to the subframe upfront. They just drill into the floor pan. Even when welding it in, the weld spot upfront is still to the floor pan. Is it not?

i’m no expert, but it seems like this is not ideal. It’s not connecting to the subframe as the name implies. Are there any bolt on options aside from these that give you the ability to weld it to the frame when ready? Or should I just go for a weld in kit from the get-go?

or am I just overthinking this and for a cruiser the jegs will be fine?

 

Iirc, it is bolted or welded to the spotwelds across the torque box leg. Pretty strong there.
If you weld it, then add a piece to box that in and run another over to the rear of front subframe it would be a bit better.

 

Okay that makes more sense. I thought it just bolted to the thin floor pan metal.

 

I have a pair that I bought around 2022, yet to be fitted. They bolt on the rear control arm mount and, as you mention, by way of holes you'll need to drill in to the floor plan at the front. No other mounting points as stock unless the design has changed since I purchased them. I plan to tie it to the sill by welding small metal pieces between the subframe connector and sill as mentioned.

I'm also a little dubious about how effective they are as stock, but there is a thread on here with some real world experience and the poster seemed satisfied

 

I've had them installed for over 25 years and highly recommend them. The car was a daily driver for years after they were first installed around 98' till they were removed / replaced in 2011 for a second new set.

Bolt in only; there was no bolt-hole elongation - anywhere. My ride is also a T-Top car that's had more than 1 well-built (325 & 350 HP) engines installed and I also found no cracks on the body pillars when I brought it to bare metal around 2013'. While I will never claim to be a racer, but I'll admit to driving 'hard' from time to time...........

The pictures are from when I was about to replace set 1 and install set 2.








Here's how the second set looked a few years ago.....






The 4 tires MUST be on the ground when you final torque the bolts ( Suspension must be loaded ) !!!

Install the SFC at the rear of the car first,........ snug the rear control arm bolt; then raise the SCF on each side and mark the front holes. Regain access, drill, drop bolts in front / snug nuts, torque rear bolts, torque front bolts, enjoy.

They will stiffen up your ride - a lot ( IMO ).

 

@John in RI I've used the same Jegs subframe connectors in my past IROCs and will install them in my current IROC when it gets back from paint. They were all bolted in as well and never had to weld. The bolt elongation thing gets blown out of proportion and after having a 3rd gen and been around many since the late 80's with bolt on subframe connectors, not once has anyone shown me bolt hole elongation issues with bolted on subframe connectors.

 

I was one who believed the hype about bolt-in SFCs elongating bolt holes over time. As I read more and more, it seems like that's not true. I read quite a few reviews of the Jegs SFCs and owners really seem to be pleased with them. I purchased a set for my car.

 

Put enough power to those "bolt in" subframe connectors and you'll elongate those bolt holes for sure. One by one. And when I say enough power I'm not talking about your "built" 350 or 400+ engine

 

In addition to these bolt-in, Jegs, SFCs, I've decided to go with Alston/Heidts inner SFCs as well. I'll use both and more than likely, I'll weld the Jegs SFCs in.

 

At that point one would be looking at more than subframe connectors. For my past 383 and 406 powered 3rd gen at autocross and open track courses, the bolt in were just fine with no bolt elongation issues. Same for others I knew that autocrossed and open tracked their 3rd gens. Drag strip doing 11's, no issues with bolt elongations also but the strip we went to required rollbar at that 11.50's. Most will be fine with the Jegs subframe connectors bolted in.

 

That's some informative, real world experience, FAST. Thank you for posting.

 

I flex my welded BMR subframe connectors. Don't know how anything with power doesn't flex these.

SSM is making their subframe connectors again which are the best. I bought a set just to have in the shop.