i have a 89rs with drums. from the post ive read i think i dont need to change anything except for maybe the brake line that is connected to the rear end, if i get a 89-92 complete rear end.

ill check if i have the A-50 master cylinder. if i do then i wont need a thing right.

 

You mean the rear line from the master cylinder to the back? Nah, you won't need that. The only way you'd need that is if you were putting on rear discs from an earlier car, like, 82-84. Seems the prop valve port for the rear line exits from the -front- of the prop valve, whereas, for the later "aluminum" prop valves, the port for the rear line exits the bottom.

I say this because you need to get the prop valve from the donor car. But if you're getting an 89-up rear, and get the prop valve from '89-up, you won't have to worry about the prop valve not meeting the steel lines.

The rear body-to-axle hose is the same, BUT, you SHOULD replace it while you're down there.

And after that, all you need is the prop valve, and you're all set.

 

Hello, I hope everything will be good swaping that rear-end.

I have two question related:
My car: 92rs LO3 everything stock with the optional 16" weels from factory 2.73 and drum brakes.


I plan to buy a rear disc brake kit from baer, It come with everything? I would need any line? I would need an adjustable proportioning valve? (From Spoohn)

I plan to buy a complete rear-end from Moser the 9 ford one with aluminium housing wich posi I should chose? Will I need the speed sensor? Anything else I will need?

I dont plan to put a monster engine in there (no more than 400lbs foot), I do whant to light my car and aluminium is lighter, Is this rear end a bad desission? Will the Baer Brakes work on the Moser rear?

Thanks.

 

so i will only need the proportioning valve

thats it?

mine wont work.

 

You will need more than the proportioning valve! You will need new rear axle hard lines (prebent), brackets for the hardlines to attach to. And three new flex lines. Axle housing to disc brake backing plate shims. And a special bolt to attach the body to axle brake line.

Just thought you should know.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

He said he was getting a complete rear end, why would he need all that?

 

Sorry, I was referring to to the post by "92BlAcK_RSLO3".

 

im goin to take the whole rear end.

so thats the axle housing and axles.

so will i need the porportioning valve, hard brake lines on the axle housing, and new brake lines from body to calipers?

 

TDK:

I my knowledge you will not need the prop-valave since you have an 89 car. Do yourself a favor and buy a new flex hose though, do it the right way the first time around.

 

'89 used the same prop valve for rear drums AND rear discs? I know they use the same master cylinder, but the same prop valve? Are you sure?

And as for doing it right, you might want to get new caliper mounting bolts to replace the old ones if they're rusted up, and see if you can find a "bushing & slides" kit to replace the rubber bushings that ride along the mounting bolts. The one for my 82-88 discs was called a "rear caliper hardware kit", I don't think the part # I have will be the same for an '89-up rear, but it was by Bendix, and cost me $5.

 

I am pretty sure that the J50 (?) prop valve is the same for drums and discs for the 89 and up cars.

I am sure someone will chime in and either confirm or deny my claim.

 

The 1989 proportioning valve for cars equipped with J-65 or 1LE are the same for the 1st design GM#14089496.

The 1989 second design proportioning valve for cars equipped with J65 or 1LE are the same as 1990,1991, and 1992. GM part# 10136840.

The J-50 (rear drum brakes) is different. GM part# 14089495 (1st design), or 10136839 (2nd design).

The 1LE proportioning valve is dedicated to cars with the complete 1LE brake package. Front and rear.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

can u explain that andy

 

It is best explained by pictures. I should have very good pictures explaining this whole brakeline, proprtioning valve thing posted on my website in a week or so.

But in the meantime, I will try my best to explain it. In 1982 to early (very early) 1984 the Fbody cars used a brake line fiiting referred to as "inverted flare". This type of fitting had been an industry standard for decades. Then In 1984 (most of the year) a change was made to use a new and different type of fitting referred to as "metric, or bubble flare". This continued to be used on all brake lines throughout the car. Until 1989 (again very early 1989 also used this same line) when the same brake line was used through 1992. But the pitch of the thread was changed to a much steeper pitch.

So here is a capsule view of what I have said:
1982-1984 (very early) old style brake line fittings.
1984(most of the vear)-1989 (very early) new style fittings.
1989(most of the year)-1992 brake fitting thread pitch changed.

Now here is the confusing part. The 1989-1992 thread pitch change only effects the proportioning valve and master cylinder.

I would suggest that anyone with a 1982-1984 (very early 1984 production) that is planning to do any 1LE type brake upgrade work. You will have to change your brake fittings anyway (everywhere you change to a later model brake component), so you might as well change to the 1989-1992 type.

I am currently working with a major vendor to help solve this whole problem with another one of my simple solutions. So keep your eyes peeled here for more info.

I hope this helps.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

I got confused with the master cylinder and the prop valve.

Thanks for setting me straight Andy...

Is there an easy way to swap the prop valve or will i end up bench bleeding the master cylinder?

*edit*

I just read Andy's revised sticky

 

When I was wapping my proprtioning valves and master cylinders. I did not bleed them at all. I just filled the M/C to the proper level, put the top on. Then pumped the brakes till no more air bubbles rose. It seemed to work pretty well. As the air naturally want to rise from the components.

Thanx,ANDYZ28