I'm looking into getting the Eibach Pro Kit (1" - 1.25") and I'm wondering if I need the adjustable panhard rod right away too? I've heard people say that the rear end will be out of alignment, is this true? Also, if alignment is the problem, how do you know when it's correct with the adjustable panhard? How do you align the rear? Thanks.

If I do need a panhard rod, I'm thinking Spohn adjustable with poly/spherical combo. What are the thoughts on that?

 

... yes, you should have the adj panhard (poly/rod) if you're lowering the car. Lowering moves the rear to the right. It's not much but it does matter in the handling, and the u-joint wear.

Just measure the tire from the wheelwell opening on both sides. That'll get you close.

 

has anyone NOT put an adjustable one on after lowering only 1"? was it far off?

 

ive got the eibach pro kit in my car. it shifts the rear about 1/4 inch to the passenger side. believe it or not this was very noticeable in terms of handling. if i did a hard right turn, my left rear wheel would rub the fenderwell. i got the bmr adjustable and havent heard any rubbing since

 

Yep. I installed Eibach Pro-Kit and measured the difference side-to-side. It was within 1/16". In my case there was no need for an adjustable phb IMO. My recommendation is to take measurements before and after the spring swap. Then you'll have concrete evidence if you indeed need them.

Lon

 

I'm with Lon on this one....just check your stuff to be sure. My '91 RS sits totally stock and the rear was off about 3/4" when I got it, I needed an adjustable bar anyway. Maybe the previous owner hit a curb or something??? All pieces under there look fine to me and the stock panhard bar is straight but something wasn't right.

Ed

 

I had my car alined before my spring swap and he said it was as perfectly strait (in the rear) as hes ever seen. So i bet buy me droping it a bit only squed my rear only a tid bit. yeah cause thats the thing if it was oof before the springs then with the springs on it will be way off. When I get the car back out and alined again ill see if it needs a ajustale panard.

 

I ran mine without the adjustable panhard for about 9 months after I put the Sportlines on (~1.5 inch drop). You can see that the rear was moved to the side a bit but I guess I didn't notice as much difference in handling overall as others have.

Bottom line is, you can run it without the adjustable panhard if you want but it would all probably work better properly aligned.

I would go with Lon's suggestion above.

-Schultzy

 

I'm the opposite; I've run my '86 since '94 with air shocks on the back, which raised the back up about 2 inches; never used an adjustable panhard rod. The original u-joint is still back there; never noticed any handling problems, aside from the outer ends of the front P225/60r15's getting worn a little faster than normal. But our cars wear that edge down anyway...

(And before I get flamed, I had bigger tires back there; there was no huge gap. First P245/60r15's, then P255/70r15's, then P275/60r15's, now I'm back to P245/60r15's and I'm going to lose the air shocks this summer.)

Don't forget too that by now, our springs have all sagged out (I've got 246,000 miles on mine!), and our panhard rods are probably out of adjustment anyway, just because of the sagging springs.

 

I've got a Tubular panhard made 1/4 - 1/2" shorter on ebay. Perfect for a lowered car.