First off my fuel pump is so bad that even running BLMs at 108 (rich rich rich) the car will still stumble . That's getting fixed real soon .
Last night my car was making strange noises but I was tired and I couldn't see anything. I thought it was my belt stretched and touching itself. Well today I drive it a little till it was making a REALLY loud noise and bam, volts were at like 12 and I knew it had to be the belt. So eventually on the way to the parts store the power steering stops working. Oh well, turns out 2 of the 4 bolts on my waterpump pulley came loose and were missing. Then the other 2 were loose so the pulley was going all nuts. Belt came half off and cut itself between the 4th and 5th rib (6 rib belt). Weird stuff. All better now but now snow!!!! Every time I try to get home for thanksgiving or winter break there is a snow storm. It's like somebody is out to **** me off.

 

Good luck with the pump... mine was a bitch to remove...

I think I have officially taken apart EVERYTHING in my car as of Jan 2002.

200000 miles later she feels like a new car.. I wonder why lol.

 

Has anyone ever changed their pump without dropping the rearend like I did?

 

i think you have to remove the rear end unless you cut a hole in the trunk to get to the fuel pump.... i'd only do that when the rearend is dropped so you dont cut anything of importance..
Shawn

 

I changed my pump w/o dropping the rear end, I cut a hole in the floor, cut the lines, put fittings on them, then put a new sheet of metal attached w/ screws over the hole, made life a h@ll a lot easier

 

Please don't encourage people to cut holes in the back to access the fuel pump...

this is a safety HAZARD

If you gonna do it, do it right or don't do it at all because cutting a hole in the back for the sake of convenience is dangerous to say the least. The interior cabin MUST be isolated from the gas tank. A small leak and fumes will build up in the cabin causing a hazard. It also serves as a blast/heat/fire shield to keep the passengers isolated from the rear during a rear end collision.

The proper way to get the tank out doesn't require the axle being removed, just lowered far enough that you can pull the springs out. The exhaust must be removed though, muffler at the least and then the tank can be removed at an odd angle due to the filler neck. You should get this done on a lift at least.

 

I didnt cut a hole. I just dropped the tank out like you are supposed to an I didnt have to lower th rear end. I just removed the exhaust and the lateral bar and was able to get the tank out. I had some help and the tank was almost empty.

 

That is a great point about cutting the whole in the trunk being a little unsafe. But, just for kicks though, go to an NHRA national or divisional race and look up close at third gen stockers. The majority of them cut holes and make "hatches" in this area to access the fuel tank. If it is done correctly it will pass NHRA tech, but I still wouldn't think it is good for street use. after all the drag racers don't have to worry about being in an accident.

 

If you notice on stock car racing, the fuel cell is mounted and protected with a good amount of material to protect the drivers. Any case where you have a potential of having the rear end being trashed, odds are the fuel cell is isolated.

 

Hey Jon, speaking of.....I'm home, and I left your # at school I'll send you a PM with my number, call me

Rob