Hey everyone, a little background first:
Loving racing, I started up a drag racing club at my University, ASU. I've met a ton of people and learned a bunch about racing.

My friend Albert just got a 1987 Porsche 924S Turbo which does about a 16.4 stock. It's a turbo 4-banger. He's planning to up the boost (14 psi), possibly raise the compression (stock = 8.x) and spray on top of that. I think he's insane, but....he is insane. He will rebuild the engine with forged rods and pistons, and the crank is already forged. Port and Polish the heads, bigger TB, ~.510 lift cam (blowby?) and pretty much new everything. He thinks he'll make about 400-425 hp on nitrous. I think he'll grenade the engine.

My other friend Jeremy has a 68 and 69 Camaro with fastburn and vortec heads each running 12's. He just got a 2000 Z28 (which is also in the running). He'll probably have full exhaust and a bunch of bolt-ons. He's also very very very crazy, but not blow up my car crazy...well yes he is.

As for me I was "blessed" with the 92 RS (I love it, don't get me wrong). Right now I'm running a 15.8 with a best of 88.1 mph. My mods are in my sig. Right now, I have the rear end ready to install and I just found out my timing was retarded 2*. So, here's the plan in steps:

-SLP 1 3/4" Headers, Electric Cutout after Y-pipe, WB02 sensor, AIR delete
-SFC's
-March 3 pc underdrive pulleys
-Adjustable Panhard Rod
-Ignition Module, Chip Burner, Fuel Pump
-Springs and Adjustable Shocks
-Line Lock
-NX Nitrous Kit with Gen X2 package, remote bottle opener etc. 125 shot (125 rwhp)

The race is the beginning of October and this should be all I'd be able to do by then. If need be and I'm running short, I'll probably run a Performer TBI intake and LT1 cam and a little more laughing gas. Will it be realistic to beat these cars, I think they'll be running around mid-high 12's. I know ZRated and CamaroRacer1992 almost got there (Zrated did actually). Help me!

 

where is asu? is that in jonesboro arkansas

 

Get some LCAs with your other rear mods and then do an LT1 cam. Should be a fun time.

 

i think they will win

sorry.....

 

dude, ASU is Arizona State University, Tempe Arizona! I have Spohn LCA's and relocators that are going in with the rear end.
I am determined to beat them with a 305 TBI! Preferably with just boltons, but if it really comes down to it, I'll tear into the engine.

 

Tony I am probably going to start a new engine pretty soon. If I do you can have the first picks on my old 305 parts.

 

I wouldn't go with the 1 3/4" slp headers, probably too big. They would be good for the nitrous, but you'll loose low end running N/A.

I didn't believe it until I watched/helped/laughed at my roommate with a 02 WS6 who put on hooker LTs w/o cats to a 3" slp loud mouth(straight pipe). He had drivablitly problems and lost low end on his LS1 engine. Ran 13.7 @ 103-104 w/o headers, and 13.7 @ 107-108 with the headers.

You can have too much exhaust N/A, I say stick with a 1 5/8" header.

You are going to need a cam to have a chance w/ nitrous.

Traction is a huge issue in winning a drag race, especially since you will be under powered compared to the other cars.

A car that runs 12.4 @108 mph 1.7x 60' is gonna beat a car that runs 12.8 @ 113 mph with a 2.1x 60' . Don't race from a roll or on the highway. I beat my friend in a Vibe by 1 sec at the track (15.6 vs 16.6), yet he whooped me top end on the highway (70-110 mph). My 2 cents.

 

Thanks a lot Beast, I'm really impressed with what you're doing and have been following it pretty much with my car. I will have the drag radials, LCA's, LCA relocators, Panhard, Adjustable Shocks and springs for traction. As far as the headers go, I'm planning on swapping in a 383/400 later on in the car's life, so I figured I might as well get headers that will work for that engine as well. I know I may lose some torque, but that's not the biggest of the L03's problems .

 

get teh suspension stuff taken care of first and learn to launch the car. the i would suggest an upgraded fuel pump, 350injectors, don't bother with the pulley set(an electric water pump is about the same price and frees up a lot more power), and don't hit the nitrous until you have it firmly into second gear(unless you have cash to blow on one of those bad *** progressive nitrous delivery systems)
you are gonna need to get the suspension very sorted otu to getr the job done. definately 90/10's in front and 50/50's in the rear, V6 frnt springs, control arm relo brackets, adn a good torque arm. if you cna get it to launch half good(think about low 1.8 or high 1.7 60ft's) you shoudl have plenty of power wiht the 125 shot to run way into the 12's.

later
tim

 

About the torque thing, I used to think the same way in my GTA "why do I need torque when I can already spin them at anytime in 1st gear and 10-20' in 2nd?" I bought traction stuff anyways and a big cam 214/220, as well as modified(siamesed the intake TPI car).

Well, my GTA has solid aluminum LCA, LCA brackets, comp. eng. drag shocks, ploy torque arm bushing and the same GS-C tires and wheels as the TBI car (but were new then). Now the car would straight hook from anything other than a dead stop, but the car still only managed a best of 2.19 60' and that was launching at a higher rpm with considerably more traction than my TBI car (blue car).

Now I doubt my driving skills have gotten much better and I know the GTA has a lot more hp and better traction, but I bet it doesn't have the low-end torque of the TBI car due to (1) engine (big cam vs little) and (2) gear multiplication 2.75 x 3.42 (GTA in 1st) vs. 2.95 x 3.73 (TBI car in 1st).

The TBI car has a best 60' of 2.10 and others (~75% since headers) in the 2.1x range.

I would find some cheap headers somewhere used or whatever and then sell them when you get a bigger engine.

 

This is a daily driven car and will continue to be so. I'm not sure if the electric water pumps are good for that or not, so that was my thinking with the underdrive pulleys. The suspension setup shouldn't be too harsh, depending on the bushings I use, plus I'll have adjustable shocks, this should be fine, right?

 

everyu company that i talked to abotu electric water pumps said they are intended for racign use but work fine on teh street. when i talked to csi and aerospace components about putting one on a daily driver they both jsut stated that their warranty applied for daily driver or weekend racer. i put a weiand one on my car for a whiel adn it worked great.
even if you don't do teh electric pump, skip the pulleys. they are pretty much worthless unless.

later
tim

 

90/10s ON A STREET CAR IS UNSAFE

TO GET INTO THE 12S WITH A 3500# CAR YOU NEED MORE THAN 400 FLYWHEEL HORSEPOWER, A 305 WITH A 125 SHOT OF SPRAY IS GOOD FOR MID TO HIGH 14S ( BEEN THERE DONE THAT)

 

The WBO2 would be great for tuning but it isn't compatable with the factory ECM. If your going to run both the WBO2 and the factory O2 you'll be ok.

I bought March 2 pc underdrive pullies and didn't see any improvement on the dyno.

Have you replaced the factory air cleaner?

 

FRMULA88
Zrated got into the 12's with a 125 shot and Camaroracer1992 hit a low 13 (13.12?) with a 120 shot. Check my sig for the TBI registry to see their mods etc. Yeah, there's no way I'm running 90/10's on the street, but adjustables should let me get close to that at the track while retaining some manners on the street.

Axoid
Yeah, I'm using both O2 sensors, the WB being for tuning. Right now I have a 14x3 open element, but I might switch to a boxed Cowl or a dual snorkel type intake, I'm not sure yet.

 

i know a bunch fo guys that drive 90/10's ont eh street. no problem, you jsut dont' get to play mario andretti around every corner anymore. they wear jsut like any other strut too, so that isnt' even an issue. as for 14's on a 125shot, you need to look around more. camaroracer1992 went 13.18 with gears, headers, 125 shot, performer tbi, and ultimate mods. that is a bit quicker than teh 14's you are talkin about.
it also doews not take anywhere near 400hp at teh flywheel to go 12's, unless you are trying to dead power your way into teh 12's without any regard for suspension or proper chassis prep.

later
tim