777ZLLL

Hey again, Well now thats its all put together, ive been driving it a bit, and learned something that i proberly messed up. when i cut the car on it idles fine... but after driving it for a couple minutes the check engine light comes on, and when i stop for a light or sign, it starts surging ( rpms going from 400 to 700 rather quickly) a few people have told me to check the oxygen sensor, another said map sensor....sence this car is my daily driver.... i dont think stalling out at stoplights is a good way to show off my awsome 3rd gen.

singleslammer

on mine it was the o2 sensor.

camaro89rs355

what code is the computer throwing??? Check it out and let us know witch one it is. this will help us help you alot better

steve8586iroc

Check for VACUUM leaks.

777ZLLL

Cool guys, Well everyone here in where i live is telling me its electrical... kinda worring me. Im gonna throw in a 02 sensor tomarrow right after school if that doesnt improve it im going to the electrician, and spending the 100 bucks it takes to tell me every little problem with it.... Sigh... bye bye money

Oh with the check engine light, it only comes on after the car has been running for a while, and well when i cut the car off the light goes off and wont cut back on untill the car has been on and running for a few minutes. I work at autozone and no one at work can read it without the car being off..... kinda blows. So im forced to spend the money..

Vacumm is fine.. i checked them all.

camaro89rs355

you have to read's the code's with the moter off. If you work at auto zone then get you a gm code key and check what code it is throwing. When your car's check engine light come's on it store's that code in it's memeroy. For some one that work's at autozone you sure dont know much about car's. I work at the autozone in Arkansas by the way

v8unleashed

iTrader: (3)

Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?

A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.

THE CONNECTOR


-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------


DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.

CLEARING THE TROUBLE CODES
Turn the keyswitch to the off position. To clear any trouble codes, disconnect the power feed for 30 seconds. If this is done at the battery, and your car stereo is equipped and programmed with a four digit pin code, you may have to re-enter that as well to use your stereo again. A better place to remove power is at the fuse.

TROUBLE CODES


12. No reference pulses to Electronic Control Module (ECM).
13. Oxygen sensor signal stays lean during warm engine cruise
14. High temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
15. Low temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
16. High battery voltage OR
Direct inition system open or shorted to ground
17. RPM signal problem
18-20. N/A
21. High voltage at throttle positon sensor
22. Low voltage at throttle positon sensor OR
Fuel cutoff relay circuit open or shorted to ground
23. Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Throttle position sensor error
24. Circuit fault in vehicle speed sensor
25. High temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Vacuum switching valve circuit open or shorted to ground OR
High voltage at ATS sensor
26. Fault in quad driver module
27. Fault in 2nd gear switch
28. Fault in 3rd gear switch
29. Fault in 4th gear switch
30. N/A
31. Low voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fuel injector OR
Park or neutral switch OR
CAM diagnostic OR
Governor malfunction OR
Wastegate overboost OR
Wastegate eletrical signal open or shorted to ground
32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
33. High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)
34. Low voltage (high vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)
35. Idle speed can not be set to desired RPM
36. Burn off at mass air flow sensor OR
Problem in transmission shift OR
Fault in direct ignition system OR
Missing pulses in electronic spark timing signal
37. N/A
38. Fault in torque converter clutch brake switch
39. Fault in torque converter clutch circuit
40. N/A
41. Fault at cam sensor OR
Cylinder select error OR
Tach input error
42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR
Fault at direct ignition system OR
Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit
43. Low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit
44. Oxygen sensor lean
45. Oxygen sensor rich
46. Fault at vehicle anti-theft sytem OR
Fault at power steering switch
47. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM)
48. Misfire
49. Vacuum leak
50. N/A
51. PROM error
52. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM) -
Missing fuel calpac missing OR
Analog to digital converter error OR
Fault at quad driver module OR
Low voltage at oil temperature sensor
53. High voltage at battery OR
High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Voltage reference error OR
Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
54. Low voltage at fuel pump OR
Low voltage at Fuel pump relay OR
Output failure at quad driver module
55. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM) -
ECM failure OR
Serial bus error OR
Fuel lean malfunction
56. Low coolant or corrosivity OR
Fault in port throttle system vacuum sensor
57. N/A
58. Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
59-60. N/A
61. Oxygen sensor degraded OR
Port throttle system error OR
Cruise control problems
62. Gear switch input diagnostics OR
High voltage at oil temperature sensor OR
Fault in cruise control- vacuum solenoid circuit
63. High voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Fault at right oxygen sensor
64. Low voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Right oxygen sensor lean
65. Failure at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Faulure at injector peak/hold diagnostic OR
Right oxygen sensor rich OR
Fault at cruise control position sensor
66. Internal reset of Electronic Control Module (ECM)
67. Fault at cruise control switch
68. Fault at cruise control switch
69. Fault at air conditioner pressure switch
70-87. N/A
88. Internal reset of Electronic Control Module (ECM)

FreeLoader

OH MY ***, FINALLY!

I'm having the EXACT same problem, its weird, its like the car shifts into 4th gear and wont go above 1500 rpm when the check engine light comes on.

The trouble codes are 13 and 43 for me, ive already changed the knock sensor so im pretty sure thats not it.

I've been trying to find out what the problem is for a long time, someone please help me out too and reply with an answer that will fix the problem so i dont have to keep replacing sensors

777ZLLL

ok.. well i replaced the O2 sensor... nothing.. it runs smoother, but same problem, i gave it to the electric guy down here... he said he will give me a print out of everything he finds and does to fix it..


and to the autozone comment.. I AM 18 i jsut turned 18... i havent taken any classes.. the store manager liked my attitude, and for this to be my first car to be messing with.. i think im doing good, sorry i dont know as much as someone with more school and atleast double my experience.

That is why im asking questions on the board... to learn somethings.

camaro89rs355

Ok im only 21 and i havent went to school or anything for car's either but if you dont know nothing about car's then you have no business working in a autopart's store. When someone come's in and ask for something and you have no idea what he is talking about and it take's a long time for you to find out he is going to be pissed off and not do business at that store anymore.

v8unleashed

iTrader: (3)

you gotta start somewhere......seems like a pretty good place to me, i wish i had the time to work in a garage or something and learn to do more of my own stuff

tanager11

I totally agree with v8unleashed. Dude don't listen to what camaro89rs355 is saying about you not having any business working where you do.......

....this is the way I look at things. You are 18....so how much do you really know about anything...not a whole lot, so take what you can and learn from your co-workers, in a couple of years you will have yourself a good bit of knowledge, just in the process if you are working on someones car and don't know something ask someone who knows, there is no shame in that and this is how you learn. Not everyone is fortunate enough to have some around since day one to show them how a car works etc, for me it wasnt until I was about till I was 21 that I actually started to work on cars etc when I purchased my 1st one. Do I think I am a pro or anything now 5 years later...no, but I am big proponent of if you don't know how to do something etc.....go out, research and learn it. But I will say there is no reason to tell someone that they should not be provided with, or given the opportunity to learn a new skill etc.

He has every "right" to work in an autopart's store in whatever capacity they use him in.......so dude take advantage of your opportunity and make the best of it.

That is my 2cents!

777ZLLL

ive learned a lot sence starting work there.. And lets all stop arguing... I made this post to get some info, not start a fight or **** someone off.. Sorry if my limited knowledge has upset anyone... but i am learning.

Sooooo back to the topic, anyone have any other ideas?? Im guessing its the TPS... After giving it to the elsectrician, that kinda poped into my head...

Hopefully ill get my baby back today, i have another 300 miles to break her in, then its time to make my mustang owning friend feel like an ***.

v8unleashed

iTrader: (3)

obviously you missed my post about pulling ses trouble codes.....

JPrevost

I'm only 21, I think I know enough to never need any help in an autoparts store let alone take it to a mechanic.
FreeLoader
If the car runs like crap only when the SES light comes on 9 out of 10 times it's the knock sensor or ESC. It can't get your engine to knock so it goes into protect the cars *** mode and retards the timing big time. Car runs like crap for a while. Could be your TCC or any number of things.
If the car is stalling it could be timing or fuel. A lot of times it takes a very lean condition to stall unless you're still in open loop. In closed loop the ecm should be able to compensate enough to not cause a stall. If you floor it and the car just doesn't want to pull again it could be not enough timing or it could be not enough fuel. Almost never will it be too much fuel. The engine only stalls with too much fuel if you're running black smoke out the back for days and days and foul the spark plugs. You can tell easily when you're running to rich but it's not easy diagnosing a lean condition. Mostly because it'll smell like it's rich and then it won't, then it will, etc.

777ZLLL

ok... well lets see. today a friend cam over and borrowed my engine hoist. well he said it smelled like it was running rich as crap.., then he checked my enigne codes

23, and 32 is what come up... Tomarrow im gonna replace tps thats what the 23 called for, and he is the 3rd person who told me to check it.

camaro89rs355

Ok now were getting somewhere, did you see how he checked your code's so form now you know how to do it. But you a new TPS, and maybe that will take care of that problam. ok on the code 32 that one is a little harder. make sure all your vacuam hoses are in good shape and that they are all hooked up. Next start your car then take your finger's and try to push the inside of the egr vavle if you can push it and the car bogs down while you do this then that mean's your egr vavle is good. and your problam lies else where. replace your pcv vavle too while your at it. If you need any more help be sure to let us know.

P.S. And by the way Im sorry about saying you had know business working in a autopart's store. I just said that cause i know people that i used to work with at advance autopart that were like 16-19 and they thought they new everythng about car's and they didnt know crap. And when you tried to help them learn they just get mad and say i dont need your help.

777ZLLL

ok... well a new tps did nothing.. New egr valve helped. Plus i have some vacuum lines not hooked up right, They blowing when should be sucking... so ill just re do all of them.. Someone told me maybe a torque converter, i want one anyways, so im ordering my hedders, torque converter, and fender and crap. so im gonna have all the fun stuff to do here soon i cant wait

qytum

and the torque convertor effects it how?

don't waste your money on something that is not broke.

CrispyClutch

Dude my car's doing the same thing...its a $42 piece called the MAP sensor...


Welcome to the world of "musical sensors".

bigREd car

i had a similar problem only my car was stalling... i did the same thing and "shot gun" fixed crap... as in dont take aim and know whats up just fire away...
i changed everything from my map sensor to my coil/ignition module...
then one day as i was messing with my battery i thought what the hell is this fuse box doing here, my stereo fuse is over there so i checked it and it was blown... it was my fuel pump fuse..
piece of crap lesson learned the hard way....
thank you for your time

CrispyClutch

Which fuse was that? Where is it presicely, and what exactly does it control?

jlbolin

should be over by your battery i thinkkind of in your fender well but bolted to it behind the battery at least it is on mine.

bigREd car

yes he is correct it is hidden behind your battery and coolant thing... i didnt notice it until i decided to change my battery(another problem in its self)..

proud owner of a burnt 91 RS.. almost back together though..
dont ever get your car fixed at a shop in mexico.. j/k
You pay for what you get! Pay for it now and not later... my advice for the day..

Shawn

FreeLoader

Ok, well, I fixed the problem on my car...kinda. I gave it a tuneup, heh, apparently the last guy who owned the car wasn't too good at doing tuneups. All spark plugs had black oil on them, one wasn't plugged in, one was broken, and one broke while someone was pulling it out. Everyone keeps telling me my car shouldn't have been running, but i swear to *** thats how they were, and it did run. Anyway, there was also a wire that was messed up and wasn't plugged in down there that seemed to connect to the tps, i never got to see it, and i dont know if it was plugged back in, all i know is my car isn't bogging down now, but it still has the same trouble codes and the check engine light still comes on sometimes, but my car still runs pretty good. Let me know if anyone has any idea what that cord was, or if they know whats up.

still getting codes 13 and 43, replaced o2 sensor and knock sensor, though i hear they share the same ground, so im gonna look into that. Thanks for the help guys

bigREd car

are you the same guy that just changed his map sensor??this whole time i thought it was one person... fixed his problem and its cheap...

CrispyClutch

You're going to notice a huge difference, thats for sure!

FreeLoader

Oh, sorry for the confusion. The guy who started this perticular thing just happened to be having the same problem i was having, i was just posting the fact that I'm no longer having the problem and how i "fixed" it. Oh, and yes, a hel of a difference. its like night and day on my car. Funny, i thought it was slow cuz of the kind of engine it was, but i've wised up

777ZLLL

ok everyone thanks for your help... i was working on finding a fix to my problem... but now 1000 miles after being back on the road... a rod is knocking.... yay... so im taking it back out and putting something new in.. i dont want the same **** to happen twice.

therckid

alright d00d i have no idea if this is the same problem but spunds similar, i just did a degreasing on the enginebay and wpiped it clean with the hose. let it sit for an hour and started the car, well it worked for 15 seconds at normal idle but after that it was running at 450rpm making the car shake like kids were pushing on it. Almost as if only a few cylenders were working. i floored it and the car idled great after that. the engine light thing only came on the first time i started it too. the second it was gone. but the second time it idled at that **** 450rpm. is this similar to what your talking about guys? i havn't used the car on the road sence the cleaning but i think i will soon. if this is the same problem its one of two things, the maf senser next to the throttle body or a tps senser.

91rs4life

I noticed you replaced the O2 and it didn't seem like you tested it. My friend it is important to know how to do these things so you don't throw good money after bad.

If anyone here does not know how to test an O2 sensor, feel free to email me at
91rs4life@comcast.net

steve8586iroc

Anytime you clean an engine with degreaser and a water hose it's always good to cover the disrtibutor in plastic or anything to keep the moisture out. If you don't you need to take the distributor cap off and dry it out inside otherwise you will have a very poor running car if it runs at all.

Steve

91rs4life

Also agood idea to cover the TB so water doesn't get down in there or else it might stumble and sputter and all this white smoke will come out of the tailpipe and you'll be like, " what the hell?" It's just moisture burning out of the combustion chamber but, still can cause damage if done too often.