Well the LT4 cam is going in next week over spring break and I just want to know if I am forgetting anything that i will need for this swap.

Here is my list

timing cover gasket
water pump gaskets
TBI gasket
intake gaskets
cam lube
RTV
oil/coolent
new dipstick (busted mine all to hell when I did headers)
thread lock

I already have a full exhaust, ultimate TBI, and an vacuum adjustable fuel pressure regulator so I think I am set. My mods are in my sig. Am I on the right track. This will be my first cam swap so wish me luck

 

looks good. maybe the lower rubber timing cover gasket that goes between the oil pan. Probably included with the gasket set.

You really shouldn't need oil. If you do you have problems

unless you are planning to remove the whole oil pan in which case you may need an oil pan gasket too, or heavy rv sealant

 

Do I even need to drain the oil? I don't see why you couln't just leave it in. I just planned on it because I have heard that you need to lower the oil pan a little to get the timing cover off. I will try to get it off before I un bolt anything else that I don't have to.

 

id put new oil in. I mean its 5 min to drain and 10 bucks total. New moving parts going in which have different wear patterns, and it will make that oil pan lighter.

 

Cam lube? I've always read use motor oil for roller cams, both times I did it worked fine.

Tools? Harmonic Balancer puller, 2 or 3 jaw puller(if you are changing timing chain), torx bits?

Are you changing the valve springs also get some LT4 retainers too (cheap and light), you'll need 16 .060 shims for the exhaust valves(I would personally)
You'll need a valvespring compressor and a magnet, some rope(or air compressor) to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder.

You shouldn't have to remove your TBI from the intake manifold. I guess you will for the VAFPR.

You can turn/twist the A/C condenser out of the way so you don't have to drain/release the R-12.

Remove fuel cap to releave pressure in the tank(gas pouring out of fuel lines is fun)

I would leave the oil in until you're almost done (in case you spill coolant in there etc.) Also I'd leave the filter in at least until you got it running to save a dry start if you can't get it to fire up right off.

A long screw driver to turn oil pump so you can put the dist. back in the rigth place.

I put the bolts from the H/B puller into the end of the cam(3 of the 9 or 12 will fit) to help removing it past the first/2nd bearing.

I think putting the timing cover back on is the worst part.

 

I forgot to add to my list that i will be renting a harmonic ballencer puller/installer from autozone.
Are the LT4 retainers necessary. When people do the LT1/LT4 cam swap I hear that they just put it in. Is it ok if I keep the stock springs and retainers. The car only has 35,000 origonal miles on it and new heads will be going on later this summer. So quit frankly I don't care what happens to the stock valve train for now as long as the car will run okay. Also, why is the timing cover the hardest to put back on? Why would I need a puller for the timing chain? I thought it came right off. The only thing I am worried about is re-installing the distributor correctly. I have done it before a couple of times but both of those times were to change the intake which doesn't require you to turn the engine with it out, therefore allowing it to slip right back in where it was. I will be setting the valves and turing the motor with a crank socket but not sure how to re-allign the distributor.

 

Well, the stock stuff will probably go into valve float ~5500 rpm (stock) or less since that cam I'm sure has much more aggressive lobes. GM probably designed the LT4 valve train around the LT4 cam to be relatively cheap to produce but still reliable, Why wouldn't GM just use the stock LT1 springs and retainers with an LT4 cam? Not saying you must change the springs, it's just a real good idea, a broken spring usually means broken engine.

Also, why is the timing cover the hardest to put back on? Why would I need a puller for the timing chain? I thought it came right off. [/QUOTE]

If you drop the oil pan about 1/2-3/4" it may not be that hard, it's a trade off, droping the pan is a b*tch, or putting the timing cover on with the pan in place is a b*tch.

You'll need a 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the timing gear on the crank if you are replacing your timing set.

 

I geuss I will play the timing cover by ear wheather or not I drop the pan. Can you get one of those jaw pullers at autozone? I was completely unaware that you needed one to pull it off. I thought I have always seen them come off once the bolts came out. I never rev my car past 5k and I don't see myself doing that after the cam. Maybe everynow and then but I got into a habit of shifitng early because of the low RPM range of the crappy stock cam.