hey guys, heres one for ya...I just got my 350 in my car, hooked up the harness, now...thought I was ready to go, sat there and turned the car over...the fuel injectors spray....but then the spray like gets shot out the top of the tbi and out of that air injection place, what do I do, why is my car not starting. I need help bad.

 

actually not everything is hooked up, but maybe this is where my problem lies....the part where the air injection part went into the throttle body....nothing is there, do I plug it? do I have to reroute something. also the two sensors in the block on the drivers side of the engine are not plugged in b/c I couldnt get the plug out for the sensor by the header....and I couldnt screw the other sensor thats above the oil filter. also I have no tube on the egr, and i have no tube on that thing right by the egr and right behind the Throttle body, also there are two long wires on both side of the block that I could not find to hook up to anything.....I know i hsould of payed more attention but its a little late for that now.

 

Did you rebuild it yourself?? Make sure your valves are properly adjusted. I don't know much about the TPI connections and all, but when I rebuilt my TBI, it did the same thing you've described. I had spark, fuel, and air so what could it be? The car should still turn over and try to start even if some of the sensor wires are off. The SOB will throw codes, but it should still start.

Remove the valve covers and back off the valves. This is messy, but it is the best way to adjust the valves.

Anyone else with suggestions??

 

I just re-read your post and I guess you do have a TBI. I thought it was a TPI since it was a 350. Check the board for TBI pics. It might help you some. If not, I'll see what I can do for you. But make sure the valves are not too tight!

 

My first suggestion would be to check for spark. You know you have fuel so check for spark. Check the valves, too, like 3rdgenstm said. Also, try and hook everything up that is disconnected. It should still crank over with some of the stuff disconnected but I think it is at least worth a try. Make sure all of your grounds are connected and are free of corrosion.

I was just in a similar position with my car. I rebuilt my engine in college two weeks ago andit was fine until one week ago it wouldn't start. I didn't know what do to so I posted on the boards and someone suggested I change my battery cables. I did and the car started right up. The old battery cables looked fine but that was the culprit.

So, basically, just take your time, check the valves, try to reconnect anything you can, check for spark, and let us know what happens.

 

if it is spitting gas back out the intake, hows ur timing. set it as close to zero as u can then try to start it.

 

yep that is true too ^^.

Is it catching fire in the throttle body yet?? That's fun!!

Make sure also that the firing order is correct-- remove the plugs and turn the engine over by hand. 'Feel' the piston come up to the head with a pencil (in the plug hole). Go thru all of them to make sure 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

You'll get it, keep trying. it is so aggravating to put all that time into something and have all the entusiasm extinguished by a small oversight. Once you find out what is wrong, you'll say 'I'm a dumbazz!'

I did when I found my problem.

 

sounds like you're having similar problems to mine. read my recent threads in this forum and the Gen Tech forum

 

alright, my brother rebuilt the engine and adjusted hte valves and evertying and he used a torque wrench and he used a book to see how tight he had to tighten them. and yes my throttle body did catch fire once when I tried to "give it a little gas" hehe, I think my timing is just probably way off, I know that the firing order is correct. I dont have time today to go up to my shop and mess around with the car b/c I have things to do, but I'll check all that out and let you guys know what happens, I just wish the dang thing would start

 

sounds like your timing is 180* off. done it a million times with my truck. try this once and see what happens.



on the dist. cap switch the #8 wire to the #2 pole on the dist and the #2 to the #8


then switch #4 and #7

then switch #3 and #5


then try to start it and see if it runs.

 

can I run it like that or should I just do that to see if thtas whats wrong, then switch them back and mess with it...

 

you can run it like that. just need to remeber that you did that. you can also pull the dist. and turn it 180* and put it back in and run it normal. right now my truck is 180* off so i switched it like that and its been running like that for about 10k miles.

 

I noticed you didnt say switch 1 and 6....I dont have to? or you just forgot to say those

 

nope those two are right weather its 180* off or not. at least that is the way it is with my truck. but then again its a ford and its a I6 and not a V8 but should be true for all motors.

 

hey I just pulled the distributor out and turned the rotor the opposite way, put it back on and put the wires back into place....started right up after I played with the distributor, but I still have a couple vacuum leaks to fix...man hearing that engine start up made my day

 

oh yea i forgot to mention you can also pull the dist. and turn it 180* and that will put it right. its an easy mistake to make. as the motor is at TDC twice.

 

Cool.

 

ok but since I have headers and i took my air injection stuff off, do I just plug that part that goes into the throttle body?

 

I don't recall any part of the AIR system being linked to the TB. I just can't picture it. THere is a big line to the PCV valve, then a samller one to the air cleaner, and then a rigid plastic one that runs to to the purge canister. Those are the only ones I can think of and none of them tie into the AIR system. If there is one, I just can't see it in my mind.

Anyone else?

 

yeah nevermind, it was for my brake booster, I'm an idiot, but I figured it out. I got the air pump off and now I have to go buy a shorter belt for my car.....should pretty pretty close to done tonight, except for the exhaust.

 

post some pics when you are done.

 

i had to buy a longer one.

 

~96.8 inch 6 rib belt is required.

 

im actually running a longer belt. something like a 97.2 belt. after it being on there a few months it will prolly stretch and need to be replaced. but the parts store went from a 96.5(too short) to a 97.2

 

96.8 are you sure? the air pump is off my car and I went and bought a belt 96.8 inches long and it didnt fit, unless I have to route it different

 

Yes, you have to route it differently. I believe a diagram is on this site somewhere. That is why you need a longer belt. Do a search and I will try to find it as well.

 

Here try this.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml


If you look at the bottom pic, it doesn't show it with the power steering pump, so look at the top pic. Go from the alt to the ps pump, back up to the water pump, then the crank to the a/c, under the idler.

You have to make sure the right things are still rotating in the correct direction.

 

ok got that done, its taken care of. now....my coolant temp gauge in my car doesnt work, and neither does my oil pressure gauge.... On the drives side of my block what two sensors go into that side of the block....and on the passenger side what is the sensor right next to my headers...and which sensor wire goes on it, the white one or the black one. I know why its not showing oil pressure but I cant figure out why it isnt showing coolant temp, my car also isnt turning the fan on at all, and my heat/ac doesnt blow air, I rerouted those hoses on the passenger side.....one hose' going from the back of the manifold to the heater core, and then from the heater core to the radiator. is that ok? where does the vacuum hose for my cruise control go. right behind the throttle body and right next the the egr there is something shaped like a nut with fitting for a vacuum hose...what goes there.

 

wow!

Let's take it one at a time.

Drivers' side:

oil pressure sending unit --above the oil filter. This could be the problem with the oil gauge. If it is bad, you will show 0 oil press. It should be almost 60 psi when you first fire the bastard. If it is not the sending unit, you have a bigger problem. But first, try hooking up a good old fashioned gauge. You can get one from Auto Zone or Advance for under 12 bucks. Remove the oil plug at the front of the block above the timing chain cover. Hook it up there and start the engine. If it reads '60' then you are ok. It is a bad sending unit or the gauge itself. If it still reads 0, you are in trouble and we can cover that if it happens. The sending unit is about $35.

The fan switch is also on that side on the head. There are 2 wires that run along the side of the oil pan in a harness. One is the wire for the fan switch, the other is for the o2 sensor. The fan switch is in the head, the 02 sensor is in the exhaust manifold. You can't really confuse the 2. See pic. (The oil press sending unit is the thing sticking out above the oil filter). The fan switch is about $15.

http://www.fbody.com/members/3rdgenstm/engine9.jpg


Passenger side:

Knock sensor-- big boy with a 'silver' ring around it; located on the block. Forward of the starter.

Coolant temp sensor-- located on the head toward the back of the engine. About $15.

http://www.fbody.com/members/3rdgenstm/engine8.jpg


Heat and A/C--
1) did you disconnect any electrical connections? If so, make sure you hooked them back up. I am assuming by 'not blowing' you meant the blower fan. This might be the case; no power. If it is hooked up, check the fuse.

2) did you disconnect any vac lines? If so, make sure you hooked them back up. The HVAC selection runs off of vacuum, so make so you are getting a vac source.

If neither of these are the solution, then we have more work to do. It could be the HVAC control, etc.

Hoses--
You should have a hose running from the top (outlet) of the heater core to the heater control valve. It is the black dilly that hangs over the valve cover close to the 'upper smog gear box'. While you are there, there is a vac line that goes to that too. make sure it is there and is hooked up, not broken, etc. Now, there is a return hose that goes down to the frame rail and junctions. This junction should have a hose that runs to the radiator and one that runs to the heater control valve. The lower hose from the heater core should be going to the rear of the block into a big 'ol fitting. (Follow the pic the best you can. If you can't follow it, I will try to get some better pics in the morning if it isn't raining).

http://www.fbody.com/members/3rdgenstm/engine11.jpg


Cruise control--
The vac line, I belive is a harder, formed line. It should come out of the front of the TBI unit. I don't have a good pic of it.

Fitting by EGR valve--
I think this is where the MAP sensor pulls its vacuum. There should be a line hooked up there to the MAP sensor. I don't have a good pic of it, but I will check it.


Here are some more pics of my car. Feel free to browse around to see if anything can help you.

http://www.fbody.com/members/3rdgenstm/

Let me know what I can help you with.


Edit-- I tried those links above in the body and they don't work. Just go to the last link I gave you and look up the pics. The pic titles are the same.

 

k I know about the oil pressure switch, the problem....it wont thread into the block...not even the one that came out of my 305 would go back into the 305 IT CAME OUT OF. and the the fan switch...where tha should go there is a plug in the block but I cant get the right size fitting to go into the plug to get it out. ok shouldnt the coolant gauge be working if the wire with the white shroud is over it. the sensor should have a blue tip correct? the one with the black shroud goes on the knock sensor. and my vacuum lines are a huge problem b/c when Iwas pulling everyting off they were very brittle and well basically everything broke. as for those heater hoses...I'm looking for a way to re route those, does the way that I described work or will it not?

 

I think you have the sensors wire correctly, but they may be bad.

Yes, if I remember correctly it should be blue and the wire should 'push-clip' on it from the end.

I think the heater hoses should work the way you have it, but you will either have heat all the time or won't have heat at all (not sure which) if it is not plumbed to the control valve. (Someone correct or substantiate that).

The vac lines are going to be a problem. I can try to take some detailed pics, the best I can, if you'd like. Just let me know.

 

please if its not ot much trouble..."i know its a PITA" but I would really like to get this car doen and I mean it runs....its sooooo close lol. Timing it is prolly going to be an issue too huh

 

I want to post a pic but I dont know how to make it small enough to put it on, damn I feel about worthless. its a jpg and I cant make it small enough to put on

 

Open it in paint and start editing it or reducing the image size, that's usually what I do.

 

alright...

Let me correct something first. The heater hoses should be as follows:

the top/ left hand hose runs out to the bottom port on the heater control valve. The right hand/ bottom hose runs from the block. The big fitting on the manifold should have a hose that runs from there to the side port on the heater control valve. Then the one that tees should go to the top port n the valve. The vac line on the valve goes back into a harness at the firewall.

Now, the vac lines. I have taken some pics and typed on them where they go. I didn't take one of the cruise control, but it plugs into the fron of the tbi unit (in the bottom port). There are 2 others on the front. One goes to the breather, the other is the pcv valve.

See if these pics help.

 

another

 

last one

 

let me know if you need anymore. I will be leaving for work soon, so I won't be able to take any pics, but I will check the board later tonite.

Hope this helps.

 

thanks those pictures actually help out alot. I have a picture of my engine before I took it out so I'm kinda comparing. I wish I could clean it up a little, to me it looks like crap right now.